Wood Christmas Tree Shelf

Wood Christmas Tree Shelf
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Decorate and display with a Wood Christmas Tree Shelf!  Perfect for Advent Calendar, displaying Christmas Cards, or hanging stockings. Our tree shelf features four shelves and hooks. 

This is a free project plan with step by step diagrams, video tutorial, shopping list, cut list and lots of brag photos - everything you need to build your own wood Christmas Tree Shelf!

Built by Jaime Costiglio, free step by step plans from Ana-White.com

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wood christmas tree shelf plans
wood christmas tree shelf plans
wood christmas tree shelf plans
wood christmas tree shelf plans

Christmas Tree Shelf Features

  • Under $10 to build (for 1x3s)
  • Easy to build with basic building tools
  • Four shelves perfect for advent calendar, Holiday cards, or displaying ornaments
  • Hooks at bottom for hanging stockings, or extra coats from Holiday visitors
  • Easy 1x4 construction
  • Easy to hang
  • Solid wood - so accepts stain beautifully
  • Perfectly sized to fit most any home
  • Use this tree shelf as a Christmas tree for smaller homes, apartments and lofts or even dorm rooms!  Just fill with greenery and ornaments.

We love it for displaying and hanging stockings.

It's just 1x4 boards, stacked to create a tree shelf.  You could fill with decor, as Jaime has done, or with Christmas cards, or candles, or family photos.  How about using as and advent calendar shelf, and hanging stockings off the hooks?  So many ways!

But here's the catch - Christmas is right around the corner.  So you've gotta make this project now to enjoy it this year!

More Photos and Build Steps

This Christmas tree shelf was built by Jaime Costiglio for our Handbuilt Holiday series.  For more construction photos and details, please hop over and read Jaime's build post.

CLICK HERE TO READ THAT'S MY LETTER'S BUILD POST
 

Christmas Tree Shelf Video Tutorial

I had to get in on the fun too!  In this video, I show you how to build the Christmas tree shelf.

This is a very FUN build and a very FUNCTIONAL project.  I promise, you are going to love it!

And if you just can't get this project built for this year, make sure you pin for next year!

 

Can I Make it Bigger?

Yes!  Here's what to do:

  1. Hold off on cutting the base part where the hooks are, and don't assemble anything, just cut and layout.
  2. Working from the top down, keep adding more sides, and then measuring how long the next lower longer shelf needs to be and cutting it.  Repeat for as many shelves as you'd like.
  3. 1x boards can't span more than about 3 feet without starting to sag, so keep that in mind.  You can strengthen up the 1x boards by gluing and nailing 1/4" plywood to the back sections.
  4. Once you have all your shelves cut, figure the size of the trunk and cut.
  5. Then start assembling, working from the trunk upward, just nailing and gluing.
Dimensions
christmas tree shelf dimensions
Dimensions for Christmas Tree Shelf shown in diagram

Preparation

Shopping List
Cut List
You can directly substitute 1x3s for 1x4s in the below cut list
 
TRUNK
  • 1 - 1x4  @ 16-1/4" 
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 3-1/2" or 1x3 @ 2-1/2"
 
MAIN TREE - SAW BEVEL IS 25 DEGREES
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 18-3/4" longest point to longest point both ends cut at 25 degrees bevel
  • 6 - 1x4 @ 7-1/2" long point to short point, both ends cut at 25 degrees bevel
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 15-1/8" longest point to longest point both ends cut at 25 degrees bevel
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 11-3/8" longest point to longest point both ends cut at 25 degrees bevel
 
TREETOP - CHANGE SAW BEVEL TO 30 DEGREES
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 7-3/4" long point to long point, both ends cut at 30 degrees bevel
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 8-5/8" long point to long point, both ends cut at 30 degrees bevel
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 9-1/2" long point to long point, both ends cut at 30 degrees bevel
  • Scrap 1/4" plywood for filling in second shelf approximately 6" x 15"
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Use proper safety and read all power tool manuals and follow safety guidelines while using power tools.

Instructions

Step 1

Use a jigsaw to cut out the side support pieces in a decorative shape before cutting - once you cut into the small piece, it's hard to clamp down and make the decorative cuts.  Attach to back piece.  You can use 1-1/4" nails and glue or screws to attach.

Step 2

Use 1-1/4" brad nails and glue to attach bottom shelf to supports and back.  

Step 3

Use 1-1/4" brad nails and glue to attach a pair of sides to the bottom shelf.

Step 4

Continue working upward, attaching the shelves and sides, with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

Step 5

First, attach the bottom board to the rest of the project as you did all other shelves.

Then attach the sides to the bottom board to complete the tree.

Use 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

Step 6

Trace out the second to top shelf on to 1/4" thick plywood.  Cut out with circular saw.  Glue and nail in place with 3/4" brad nails.

Step 7

Attach project to wall, preferably through bottom and back plywood pieces.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

buckey91

Wed, 11/25/2015 - 11:02

This is so beautiful, and great for someone without a mantel! I'm terrible with angles, would anyone know if I would have to change the angles if I made it larger?

tizlad

Tue, 09/29/2020 - 05:20

How would you work out the measurements if your mitre saw only tilts left, so hence the short point is on top not right as in the video with the long point on top

Backwoods Builds

Wed, 10/07/2020 - 17:16

Put your material on the right> Side of the mitre, then after you have made your first cut you can spin your board and still achieve the same results. This will give you the ability to make your long to long measurements with out having to flip your mitre.

jabweese

Sun, 12/06/2020 - 22:59

What’s the best way to hang this? My husband built me this for my birthday and surprised me today but I’m trying to figure out the best way to hang. What type of hanger?? Love this project!

RecoveringEngineer

Sun, 11/14/2021 - 17:32

May be a dumb question but do you have to use a brad nailer and not just a hammer? I have no problems through Step 3 and I've got wood glue plus 2 brad nails holding the angled pieces on. But when I go to step 4 it isn't stable enough. When I try to hammer in the nails to secure the horizontal piece the force and angle starts to pull the bottom of the vertical boards out that I attached in the previous step.

[email protected]

Sat, 12/18/2021 - 13:28

You'll definitely need a brad nailer for this project because of what you describe. One of my brads didn't go on all the way and I attempted to use a hammer to drive it the rest of the way in, but felt like it was too much for the project to handle. Instead I used a Dremel to grind the part of the nail sticking out

Seasonal And Holiday

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!