7 Drawer Extra Wide Dresser

diy dresser plans
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This is a great dresser, with seven drawers to organize it all. Simple styling goes with just about any decor style.  Our free DIY plans include step by step instructions, with diagrams and lots of reader submitted photos from Ana-White.com

I love how simple this dresser is, but with so much storage!  

More Photos and Build Post

This dresser plan was created in collaboration with Sew Woodsy - Katie and John did an awesome job sharing their whole building process with LOTS of photos and building tips, so take a second to check out their building post!  

 

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Kendal Extra Wide Dresser

Dimensions
Extra Wide Dresser Plans
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 - sheet of 3/4” plywood, ripped into strips 15-1/2” wide (you’ll only use up about 1/2 of this plywood, but the 15-1/2” wide strips can be used for a variety of other projects or as shelving)
  • 3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 10 feet long
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 10 feet long
  • 6 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 1x8 @ 8 feet long (IMPORTANT: Plan assumes 1x8s are 7-1/4” wide)
  • 1 - sheet 1/4” plywood for back
  • 7 - 16” euro drawer slides
  • 7 knobs or handles
  • 1-1/4” and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 5/8" and 1-1/4" brad nails
Common Materials
Cut List
  • 2 - 3/4” plywood @ 15-1/2” x 26-1/4” (side panels)
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 31-1/4” (legs)
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 49-1/2” (back support and bottom support)
  • 6 - 1x2 @ 49-1/2” (front and back trim between drawers)
  • 8 - 1x3 @ 7-1/2” (front trim between drawers vertically)
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 15-1/2” (bottom support) If you used 1x4s on back, this board must be 3/4” longer in length

DRAWERS - CUT TO FIT!!! Plan uses 1x6 for drawer boxes and 1x8 for drawer faces.  Drawer sides are 16" long.

TOP

  • 1 - 3/4” plywood @ 15-1/2” x 54-1/2”
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 54-1/2”
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 54-1/2”

BACK

  • 52-1/2” x 26-1/4” - 1/4" plywood
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

 

For long term durability and more professional results, I recommend using a pocket hole joinery system for wood joints.  Here is a video with tips for using a pocket hole jig:

Instructions

Step 1

Start by building the two sides. Everything is flush to inside.

Use 3/4" pocket holes, every 8-10" on inside, with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

TIP: Also drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward for attaching the top in later steps.

Step 2

Between the sides, add to both the FRONT AND BACK 1x2s and 2x2s at the bottom.

Do this by first drilling 3/4" pocket holes on each end of the 1x2s, and then attaching to the 2x2 legs.  Use glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.  Place pocket holes on underside so not visible.

For the bottom 2x2s, use 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.

 

Step 3

Attach the 1x3 dividers inside the framing, so the 1x3s are flush on the front, but overhang to the inside of the dresser by 1" (to give room for installing drawer slides in later steps).

The 1x3s can be nailed and glued in place.  Make sure these are attached exactly as measured, as they will determine the drawer slide placement.  Cutting a couple of spacer blocks to help with placement will make it easier, as you have to match the front and back.

Step 4

Add the bottom center support.

If you are concerned about the center of your dresser sagging, a fifth "leg" can be brought down from this bottom center support, to take the dresser drawer weight to the ground.

Step 5

Drawers should be built to fit the openings per drawer slide recommendations. Each drawer opening should be measured just to make sure there is no variance between drawers openings.

Drawer boxes should be 1x6 or 1x4. Cut drawer sides to 16". 1/4” plywood is used on bottom with glue, nailed or stapled on with 5/8" brad nails or staples.

Build and install the drawers using this method:

Step 6

Drawers are installed 3/4” inset to allow for the drawer faces. 

Step 7

Cut drawer faces to fit, leave an 1/8” gap on all sides. Attach to drawer boxes with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue. Then further secure from inside with 1-1/4" screws (yes, you can use 1-1/4" pocket hole screws).

TIP: You may wish to install the drawer pulls first.

Step 8

Build top first with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, and then attach to top of dresser. Alternatively, the ends can also be finished by cutting short and adding 1x2s. For a paint finish, the plywood end can filled, sanded and painted.

Step 9

Attach back with glue and 5/8" brad nails.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

natepeterman

Mon, 01/05/2015 - 12:04

We just found out were having a Baby Boy. This will be on my build list in the coming weeks

Lavenbaby

Fri, 03/13/2015 - 22:35

My husband and I are expecting a baby girl this summer and we want to make this dresser and also use it as a changing table. The only problem is my husband is 6'4 so this is a little short for him. My son's dresser is 58.5"x40"x19.5" and its a good size. How do we adjust all the measurements to make the dresser taller? Thanks!

lawschr

Wed, 04/22/2015 - 10:12

I am in the middle of building one of these for my little girls and it's coming together nicely. The only problem I am having is the shopping list for the 1x2 boards doesn't give enough for the project!!! Instead of 2-1x2 @ 6ft at least 4 boards will be needed. I can't wait until it is complete.

ScottBuilds

Tue, 06/02/2015 - 19:21

Really nice looking piece. Brand new baby showing up late July, so I've got to start on this soon. Looks like a fairly straight forward build. I'm just wondering if anyone has thoughts on the following:

* How strong is this? I haven't actually gone to Pottery Barn, but the online description of their product looks like it's also just plywood. I'm wondering specifically about using drawer slides on the face frames and how much weight can be handled. I suppose if I use Oak, which is fairly strong for the frame, that would be tough; though a bit more expensive than pine or similar.

* Does anyone assemble drawers after actually installing the sliders? I know that regardless of plans, it's always smart to do the drawers last just in case something is off by 1/32" or something, but I recently saw where someone actually put the sliders in and then measured for the drawers. Anyone do this? I'm going to use a dovetail jig to build the drawers, so don't want to screw them up.

* Anyone try building with a kickplate all the way to the floor? (Idea is no vacuuming, no hassle, no dog losing tennis balls underneath, etc.) I think it might look like garbage, though I guess I could try it first.

Thanks for any time!

ScottBuilds

Fri, 07/17/2015 - 10:13

Hi,

Alright... so ignore my questions in last post. I just went and built it!

I posted it in project brags, but I'm not sure how that works and I don't see it. Maybe needs to be approved? Anyway, my experience doing this is here.

This is a great project and I really apprecaite these plans having been here. No way I would have attempted this from my own designs.

 

 

Ettel4

Sun, 09/12/2021 - 15:11

I made a 5 drawer dresser using these plans and helpful steps and plans! I had to modify because the dresser was replacing an existing broken one, and it was in a 34.5 x 27in cubby space. I just don’t know how to post and “brag” on this site! 😂

chach2667

Sat, 03/19/2022 - 03:48

I'm very interested in making this dresser, but I have a question about the top. Has anyone used glued boards (1x8) instead of plywood? I'd prefer a stained top without the 1x2 edges and just curious how it turned out.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!