Simple, Cheap and Easy Console Table

simple console table plans
Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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This simple console table is ideal for building with a nailer, if you have one. It uses mostly 1x boards, so will be lightweight and sturdy. Many of our readers have had success with this project.

Special thanks to one of our reader sharing their photo with us.

Dimensions
console table plans
30" Tall x 48" Wide x 12" Deep

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 3 - 1x3 boards, 8' length 
  • 2 - 1x2 boards, 8' length 
  • 2 - 1x4 boards, 8' length 
  • 1 - 1x12 board, 8' length
Common Materials
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

A) 4 - 1x3 @ 29 1/4" (Fronts and Backs of the Legs) 

 B) 4 - 1x2 @ 29 1/4" (Sides of the Legs) 
 C) 2 - 1x3 @ 10" (Side Support) 
 D) 1 - 1x2 @ 37" (Stretcher) 
 E) 2 - 1x3 @ 37" (Side Trim for the stretcher) 
 F) 2 - 1x4 @ 10" (Side Apron) 
 G) 2 - 1x4 @ 37" (Front and Back Apron) 
 H) 1 - 1x12 @ 48" (Base for the top) 
 I) 2 - 1x4 @ 11 1/2" 
 J) 1 - 1x12 @ 41"
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Construct your legs by nailing through the 1x3 legs into the edge of the 1x2 legs with 2" nails and glue. The legs will be positioned with the 1x3s to the front, 1x2s to the side, as shown in the diagram.

Step 2

Start by marking each of the legs 5" from the bottom of the board. This will be the bottom of the side support, C. Nail C to the legs, using 1 1/4" nails and glue, from the inside.

Step 3

Now add the stretcher, D, centering D on the support, C, but keeping the top edges flush. D will lay flat, with the wide side up. This is demonstrated above. Use glue and 2" nails, nailing through the support, C, into the end of D.

Step 4

Add the side trim pieces, E. First, nail through the supports C into E, using 2" nails. Then nail down the length of the stretcher, taking care to keep the top edge of the stretcher (D) perfectly flush with the top edge of the stretcher support (E). Use glue and 2" nails.

Step 5

Step 6

Do the same for the front and back apron pieces, G, as shown above. Nail through G into the legs using 1 1/4" nails and glue. Keep top edges flush. Take a minute to check for square

Step 7

Now add the base top, piece H. Keep the front and back edges flush with the legs, but let the sides overhang 4" on either side. Nail into the legs and the apron using 2" nails and glue.

Step 8

Use glue and 1 1/4" nails to attach the breadboard ends to the base top. Keep all outside edges flush.

Step 9

I recommend not cutting the final piece, J, unitl you have taken an exact measurement. Add the final piece, using glue and 1 1/4" nails.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill holes with putty and sand and finish as desired.

Comments

mommybake (not verified)

Fri, 01/08/2010 - 06:04

WOW! I love your blog!! But I have to admit - I am REALLY scared of the tools!! I don't suppose you live close to Boise, ID and you could come over and help?!? Keep blogging because I love it!! And I just found you today!! Thanks!!!

Jori Hodgson (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 11:56

Hi Ana! Thanks so much for sharing all of this extremely useful information. I plan on making one of your bookshelves once I finish this majorly huge craft table I came up with. Yikes..

Anyway...on this particular table, do you think it's sturdy and large enough to hold a 32" flat screen tv?

Ana White (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 12:47

Jori, Yes, this will easily support a 32" flatscreen. In fact, check out the bragging board. Kelsey made this exact console table and I posted the photos with a TV on it! I think the TV was much bigger, too.

Just make sure you do a good job building it. Sounds like you know what you are doing!

Good luck!

Jori Hodgson (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 22:23

You're right. That has got to be bigger than a 32". Awesome! I'll be making this soon (or just whenever this other project is done).

The table I'm making now is an L shaped table that has bookshelves as the legs so I can have some storage. Sounds clever, but it's deemed itself to be pretty tricky. Mostly because my only workspace is my little apartment. Maybe I'll post a link to you once I'm finished :)

Take care.

Lee (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 16:40

We made this table over the weekend. Was a fun project to do with our two-year old son who loves tools. It's painted yellow and in our living room. Was so easy. We spent $90 (pine boards and cedar legs) including the paint and primer.

Crazy Girl Blond (not verified)

Sat, 01/23/2010 - 23:18

I would like to add the shelf to the bottom of this table like Kelsey did. What size board would that be and how would you modify the plan to include a shelf. Thanks for all the great plans and ideas!

Jo (not verified)

Sat, 02/06/2010 - 18:22

Hi Ana, I love your blog and today for the very first time, my husband and I built our first piece of furniture. We are so thrilled and thank you so much for plans! They were easy to follow and totally accurate!

We only made a slight mod which was to move the stretcher to the back. this allowed us to have space to hide our recycling center.

I would love to share with you pictures sometime.
THANKS!!!

Anonymous (not verified)

Fri, 02/19/2010 - 03:00

This was my first project, and I used my brand new tools for it! (Never held a saw, nailgun or handsander in my life.) But Ana made me feel that I could do it, and I DID! This is a good first project, though I would also recommend the 'super easy bench' for a first attempt because it is something that a total newbie can get done in one day. Instant gratification! LOL-Thanks, ANA!

Carly (not verified)

Thu, 04/01/2010 - 02:59

Hi Ana...
I've just finished building this console table. I didn't have a nail gun so I used a hammer, nails and muscle. I remember you mentioning that when you build your own furniture it has a story, well this one certainly does. I'm banging away (in my dining room) thinking how strong and sturdy it is and what a wonderful job I'm doing. I go to lift it up and I've nailed it to our hardwood floor!!! I used the wrong nails and the thing would not budge...talk about strong!!
Anyway, I'll post pics when I've finished painting but just wanted to say thank you all the way from Australia. I used to drool at the Pottery Barn website and think I would never be able to have anything as nice...now I drool on YOUR site and know I can have something just as nice...built by me! That's if I don't nail it to the floor lol.
Thanks again ;)

WAHOME (not verified)

Tue, 09/07/2010 - 14:31

I made this table yesterday and everything was going smoothly until I got to the table top. My 1 x 12 actually measures 11.25, instead of 11.5 leaving it 1/4 inch short from fitting flush! :( I made another trip to a different hardware store today, and looked at all of the 1 x 12's and took my tape measure with me. They all measure 11.25!! What gives. I hate to purchase a laminate pine that is 18" wide and have to cut to down, they are much more expensive. I considered cutting two boards and making it work that way, with line right down the middle or maybe in thirds for very top. Anyone else have this problem. All of the other pieces fit perfectly!!

Maggie (not verified)

Mon, 09/27/2010 - 06:38

I have a set of legs from a busted dining room table that I'd love to use for this project, however, they've been turned, and I don't quite know what to do to make sure I get all the support I need to make this table.

Thoughts?

Marianne Wonnacott (not verified)

Wed, 10/06/2010 - 01:14

I had the exact same problem. Very frustrating because by the time you get to that stage, there's no fixing it. The cuts for C & F should be 9 3/4. I'm sure the 1X12 standard is 9 1/4. These plans should be modified to account for that.

Amy (not verified)

Tue, 10/26/2010 - 05:08

If you don't have a nailgun, can you use just a hammer and nails? Or would you need to use screws to make sure its supported well enough? I just plan to have this in my entry way with perhaps a small decorated item placed on top. Thanks for your help!

spiceylg (not verified)

Fri, 12/03/2010 - 03:36

Hi. I have yet to build anything and this will be my first project. I was looking over the plans and still have a questions. What type of nails, are they finishing nails or regular nails w/a head? My assumption is the finishing nails to make it look better but then wonder about the strength of them?

Kenna (not verified)

Tue, 12/14/2010 - 19:36

My husband and I just spent the evening making this table and the same thing happened. So frustrating because it's one of the last steps. He cut down some thin strips to fill in the difference but still very frustrating especially since it is a gift. I usually read through all the comments before building just in case... but didn't on this one. Just adding my experience to try and save somebody else the same problem.

We've built a couple of things from this site and have loved how easy everything comes together and have had fun doing it. Didn't want my first comment to be only negative!

Daryl (not verified)

Tue, 01/04/2011 - 09:56

Hi! I am excited to make this table. I want to be able to put two small cubes under the table - is it possible to move the stretched up higher than 5" off the floor? Could I do it like 20" off the ground or does that eliminate the purpose of a stretcher?

Guest (not verified)

Sat, 04/30/2011 - 13:04

I followed your plans for this cut console table and ended up with out a table. 1x12s aren't 12 inches wide. My top isn't wide enough for the base. $30 of wood WASTED!

Guest (not verified)

Sat, 07/09/2011 - 12:34

If you find your 1x12's arent 12" wide (please measure all pieces before starting to build) then adjust side supports C before fitting so that your table base is the same width as your table top pieces you will also have to adjust the length of your breadboard ends. In all wood working projects check and recheck your materials when you go to purchase them you can then make alterations to your project to suit before you spend your hard earned bucks.

Amy B (not verified)

Tue, 10/11/2011 - 22:03

Just built this table for less than $40 in only about 3 hours!!! Thanks for the building plans Ana!!!

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 01/03/2012 - 20:43

Hi Ana,

I just want to say, first, you are fantastic and thank you for this site! I just finished making the rolling cubby bench for my son (I have never built a thing) and it came out beautifully. Now I am planning to build many of the things on your site.. Can you tell me how I can modify this console table to have a shelf on the bottom? That would be just perfect! Thanks!!!!

ZEHRA

Tue, 01/24/2012 - 13:30

Hi ana,
I love this simple console table plan but what type of wood would u recommend for this?

David (not verified)

Thu, 03/22/2012 - 04:12

Hello Ana !

Wanted to know why is the final pieces made out of 3 parts ?

Pauirdad

Mon, 11/17/2014 - 22:49

I built this piece for the living room.  This is my first full project with my new tools!!!!!  Easy to build and easy to customize.  Had to add a little height and and decrease the depth to fit.  Also, I only used (1) 3/4" board for the top.  Came out really well.  Used spray on primer after sanding with 120 sandpaper and used Painters Touch Expresso with a foam roller for a smooth finish.  Great job Anna on the plans.  Easy to follow for the first build.  Would love to attach a pic but don't know how here.

Side notes:  

- Measurements on wood are not as they say.  A 1"x4" board is shorter in width and not as thick.  Make sure you measure as you build or adjust measurements before cutting.

- Nail gun is not needed but would love to have one since hammering the nails sucks!

- You can use any type of wood.  I used the cheap stuff at Home Depot (new favorite store) and it came out great.  Better wood probably would have sanded better and wouldn't be warped.

- This is a very sturdy table and unfortunately after making this table you will want to build more!!!!!

 

Swampworks

Thu, 05/11/2017 - 09:07

The plans call for the top to be made using a 1x12. A 1x12 is actually 11 1/4" wide. The legs are constructed using 1x3 and 1x2 boards with a spacer that is 10" long between them. Standard 1x3s are actually 3/4" thick. If you have 2 - 3/4 boards spaced apart 10", the total width will be 11 1/2" which is wider than the top. Am I missing something?

JoanneS

Thu, 05/11/2017 - 15:34

Hi Swampworks,  it looks like the plan assumes the 1x12 on the shopping list is 11 1/2" (which I think they may be up in Alaska where Ana gets her wood). You can still make ths plan work by reducing the length of pieces C and F to 9 3/4" and piece I to 11 1/4".

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!