1x12 Easy to Build and Hang Modular Closet System

diy modular closet components
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Save hundreds of dollars and build your dream closet with this modular, mix-and-match organizing system! It includes six FREE individual plans designed to work together seamlessly. Easy to build using 1x12 boards and basic tools, simple to hang and install, with free plans, step-by-step instructions, and a full video tutorial!

shown in photo single hanging (2) and tower modular components

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Looking for the BEST DIY-friendly way to upgrade your closet on a budget? My free modular closet system set of plans has you covered:

  • ✅ Fully customizable — mix and match six different modules to fit your space and style

  • 🪚 Super beginner-friendly — all units built from easy-to-find 1x12 boards

  • 💰 Budget-friendly — way cheaper than buying! No need to spend thousands on a closet!

  • 🔨 Simple to build and install — French cleat system makes hanging a breeze

  • 📏 Free plans with diagrams, cut lists, and step-by-step video tutorials

  • 🧰 Works for small closets, big walk-ins, or anywhere you need organized storage

  • ✅ Designed to fit 11" cube storage bins!

It’s hands-down the easiest and most affordable way to get a custom closet look without the custom price tag.  I love this method SO much that I've already built it 3 different times!

modular closet system

shown in closet double hanging and 3 shelf hanging closet components

 

 

Modular Closet Components

By using different organizers (that you can adjust in width), you can create the closet of your dreams!  Here are the standard modular closet components.

diy modular closet plans

All of the components are constructed with the same steps, the only difference is the length of the sides and the number of shelves.  Follow the construction steps below, but use the diagrams linked below to come up with your cut lists.

 

📏 Measuring & Planning Your Closet Components

Before you start cutting boards, take a few minutes to plan your closet layout. A little prep goes a long way!

  • Measure your closet carefully – Take note of the total width, height, and depth.

  • Leave 1" of wiggle room – Always subtract about an inch from the total width to make installation easier, especially if you’re building wall-to-wall.

  • Plan for hanging vs. shelving – Think about what you’ll be storing. Need double hanging for shirts and pants? Or more shelf space for bins and shoes? You can mix and match the units to fit your needs.

  • Stick to standard shelf sizes – Each shelf fits 11" deep storage cubes, so aim for widths like 24" or 36" to keep things simple and efficient.

  • Sketch your layout – A quick drawing (even on paper) helps visualize how the components will stack and fit in your space.

Taking time to plan ensures your closet not only looks great, but functions perfectly for your daily life!

 

EASY! Hanging Your Closet Organizers

Hanging this closet system is SO easy!!!  Just cut a 1x3 board to the full length of your closet, and attach it to the back wall to studs in the wall, with the bottom of the cleat at 72" (or as desired).  Then just set the organizers on the 1x3, so the 1x6 back piece sits on top, and then screw the organizers to studs in the wall.  This way you can hold the organizers in place, match them all up, and make sure everything is hung level!

 

Considerations Before Building

I absolutely love my closet organizers, but want to help you make the best decision for your closet space, so here's a few things to consider:

  • 1x12 depth is not super deep, so folding adult pants or large sweaters on the narrower shelf depth may not fit well
  • The 1x12 depth is not ideal for adding drawers, as the drawers would be shallow.  It would be better to add a floor standing dresser underneath a component
  • The sides are not completely enclosed, not a problem for a closet, but if freestanding, this could be visible
  • If you are looking for a fancy built in, this is not it.  This is a practical and cost effective system!

 

Modular Closet Build Video

I have built this closet plan in full closet systems three times now.  It is my go-to plan for easy to build closets (and easy to hang).  In this video, I built using a French cleat hanging system (but it is not necessary to hang with the French cleat, you can use the 1x6 method as instructed in the plans).

 

 

 

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1x12 Easy to Build and Hang Modular Closet System

MORE CLOSET PLANS

Want even more DIY Closet Plans? Here's a round up of some of our favorites! 

diy closet plans

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1x12 finger joined boards
  • 1x6 boards - two times the overall length of the closet (for example, for an 8 foot closet, buy two 8 foot long 1x6 boards)
  • 1x3 board, entire length of closet (for example, for an 8 foot closet, buy one 1x3 board 8 feet long)
  • 3" long self tapping wood construction screws (star bit)
  • 1-1/4" pocket hole screws
  • 1-5/8" trim screws
  • wood glue
  • finishing supplies to include sandpaper, paint, or stain
  • closet rod sockets and 1-1/4" wood dowels for closet rods
Cut List

1 Shelf Hanging Cut List

  • 2 - 1x12 @ 18-1/4" - sides
  • 2 - 1x12 @ desired width of organizer, up to 36", minus 1-1/2" - shelves
  • 1x6 and french cleat @ desired width of organizer
  • 1-1/4" closet rod dowel cut to fit

2 Shelf Hanging Cut List

  • 2 - 1x12 @ 31" - sides
  • 3 - 1x12 @ desired width of organizer, up to 36", minus 1-1/2" - shelves
  • 1x6 and french cleat @ desired width of organizer
  • 1-1/4" closet rod dowel cut to fit

3 Shelf Hanging Cut List

  • 2 - 1x12 @ 43-3/4" - sides
  • 4 - 1x12 @ desired width of organizer, up to 36", minus 1-1/2" - shelves
  • 1x6 and french cleat @ desired width of organizer
  • 1-1/4" closet rod dowel cut to fit

5 Shelf Hanging Cut List

  • 2 - 1x12 @ 64-1/2" - sides
  • 6 - 1x12 @ desired width of organizer, up to 36", minus 1-1/2" - shelves
  • 1x6 and french cleat @ desired width of organizer

Double Hanging Cut List

  • 2 - 1x12 @ 43-3/4" - sides
  • 2 - 1x12 @ desired width of organizer, up to 36", minus 1-1/2" - shelves
  • 1x6 and french cleat @ desired width of organizer
  • 2 - 1-1/4" closet rod dowel cut to fit
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Power Sander
Level
General Instructions

Originally, I used a French cleat to hang the closet pieces on the wall.  But this required the back wall to be very straight and could be challenging in some spaces.  So I did away with the French cleat, and now just hang a 1x3 on the wall, set the components on top of the 1x3, then screw each component to studs in the wall through the back 1x6 boards.  This is an easier method that produces the same results.  Some of the diagrams and video still show the French cleat.

Instructions

Step 1

Hanging the 1x3 Wall Cleat

Locate studs in the wall at about the height you'd like to hang the cleat, remember the closet organizer will sit 5-1/2" ABOVE the cleat.  Hanging the top of the 1x3 at 76" is a recommended height.

Attach using 3" long self tapping star bit screws to studs in the wall.

Use a level to make sure the cleat is hung perfectly level.

Add additional screws so the cleat is attached to multiple studs in the wall.

NOTE: Diagram shows some components of hanging as a French cleat as done in the video.

Step 2

Closet Component Carcass Construction

All components follow same building steps, just change the size and number of shelves to create different options.

For each shelf, drill three 3/4" pocket holes on each end of each shelf boards. 

No pocket holes are drilled in the side boards.

Attach the shelves to the side boards with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Closet Component Back Pieces

On the top and bottom of the closet components, attach with glue and trim screws 1x6 board, cut to fit.  Instead of the French cleat, just attach a second full 1x6 to the top of the closet component.

Step 4

Closet Rod Installation

Use closet rod sockets to hold the closet rods.  Install centered vertically, and spaced back to accommodate a hanger (depending on your closet carcass rip depth).

Step 5

Hanging Closet on Wall Cleat

Set the closet components on the wall cleat and place where you'd like them to go.  Screw through the back 1x6s into studs in the wall.  For smaller sections that do not cover a wall stud, simply screw to neighboring closet components.

 

Step 6

Exposed Ends

If the closet has an exposed end, the end can be trimmed out with a 1x2.  Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
To finish, I sanded in the direction of the wood grain with a 120 grit sanding block. I removed all sanding residue with a soft bristled brush on a vacuum. Then I wiped clean with a damp, lint free cloth.
Finish Used
The finish I used is a cabinet grade semi-gloss paint. I used a foam roller and got the inside corners with a foam applicator.

Comments

TheHLT

Fri, 01/20/2023 - 23:01

Hi Ana.
This post comes just as I need to do *something* with my closet because it’s a hot mess but I need clarification on something- the instructions for the shelves:
Is that “up to 36” minus one half inch shelf” OR “up yo 36” minus 1.5” for the shelf “?

Newbie here so clarification would most appreciated.

TheHLT

Fri, 01/20/2023 - 23:05

That looks like the same thing so let me try again:
“Up yo 36” minus one, 1/2” shelf “
OR
“Up to 36” minus 1.5” so the shelf can be added”

That’s better :)

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!