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File Base for the Classic Storage Wall System Desk

File Base for the Classic Storage Wall System Desk
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Difficulty
Intermediate
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These plans coupled with a few more, and you can create an entire office wall system! This simple plan features two drawers that can be used as a file system, optional base and edge moulding, and a deep countertop space. Drawers use metal drawer guides.

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File Base for the Classic Storage Wall System Desk

17" wide x 30" tall x 24" deep

Preparation

Shopping List

1 – Sheet of 3/4″ A1 Plywood or MDF, made into 1×24 boards 

1 – Sheet of 3/8″ Plywood (you won’t need a whole sheet) 
1 – Sheet of 1/4″ Plywood (again, you could use a scrap) 
1 – 1×2 board, 8′ long 
1 – 1×3 board, you will only need 17″ 
1 – Base moulding, less than 2 1/2″ overall width, 17″ long 
1 – 10′ 1×10 board 2 Sets of Undermount Drawer Slides, Less than 23″ Long
5/8″ Brad Nails 
1 1/4″ Nails 
2″ Nails 
Sand Paper 
If you cannot find 3/8″ plywood in A1, then you can use the 1/4″ plwood to build your drawer faces. Just cut 2 sets of rails and stiles for your drawers, and apply the rails and stiles to the fronts and backs of the drawer face center.
Common Materials
Elmer's Wood Glue
Elmer's Wood Filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

Cut List for the Box 

A) 1 – 1×24 @ 17″ (Top) 
B) 2 – 1×24 @ 29 1/4″ (Sides) 
C) 2 – 1×24 @ 15 1/2″ (Shelves) 
D) 1 – 1/4″ Plywood @ 16 1/2″ x 30″ (Back) Cut List for the Trim 
E) 1 – 1×3 @ 17″ (Bottom) 
F) 2 – 1×2 @ 25 1/4″ (Side Trim) 
G) 2 – 1×2 @ 17″ (Top Trim Pieces) 
H) 1 – 1×2 @ 15 1/2″ (Shelf Trim) 
I) 1 – 2 1/2″ Base Moulding @ 17″ (Decorative Base Moulding) Cut List for the Drawers 
J) 2 – 1×24 @ 12 1/4″ (Bottom of Drawers, you will need to cut 3/4″ off one side to get a bottom measuring 12 1/4″ x 22 3/4″) 
K) 2 – 1×10 @ 12 1/4″ (Backs of Drawers) 
L) 4 – 1×10 @ 23 1/2″ (Sides of Drawers) Cut List for Drawer Faces 
M) 2 – 3/8″ Plywood @ 13 3/4″ x 11 5/8″ (Backs of Drawer Faces) 
N) 4 – 3/8″ Plywood cut into 1 1/2″ strips, 11 5/8″ long (Rails) 
O) 4 – 3/8″ Plywood cut into 1 1/2″ strips, 10 3/4″ long (Stiles)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

To convert the file cabinet drawers to hanging file cabinets, you can purchase these rails for about $1.50 each. These will slip right over the drawer sides and voila – you’ve got a hanging file system! General Instructions. Cut your 3/4″ Plywood or MDF into strips 23 1/2″ wide by 8′ long. These strips become 1×24 boards. Position your cuts to get the most out of each board. Work on a clean level surface. You can fasten with nails or screws, depending on your tools and the use of this piece. Screws will hold better, nails are easier. My general rule is screw anything that will be “used” like chairs and benches, and nail sedentary pieces like bookcases and hutches. I will leave this up to you. If you are screwing, make sure you predrill and countersink your screws. If you are using MDF, avoid fastening within 1″ of the edge of the MDF. Do not use wood screws on MDF. Wood screws do not have a straight shaft and will split your MDF. I have had luck with drywall screws (after all, drywall is very similar to MDF). Make sure you predrill the entire distance of the screws. It’s going to screeech, so wear hearing protection. And glue, glue, glue. My favorite option is to screw the “box” together, and then use finish nails to add the frame. That way the frame does not have blemishes, but the piece is built sturdy. Make sure you take a square of the project after each step. Measure and mark out any joints before fastening. Be safe, have fun.

Instructions

Step 1

Build the Box. Start by fastening with glue and 2″ fastenerns the shelves to the sides. Then add the top. Check for square and use the measurements above to guide you.

Step 2

Plywood the Back. Add the plywood to the back. Just a note, most furniture stores use cardboard, yes, cardboard for the back of their furniture.

Step 3

Face Frame. Start at the bottom and fasten the bottom, the 1×3, first. Then the sides, then the top, and then the shelf trim. Leave 3/4″ space at the top of the top trim.

Step 4

Top Trim. Finish the top trim, as shown above. Make sure you nail through the face of the top trim into the top of the cabinet, as well as into the top trim piece from the previous step.

Step 5

Step 6

Drawers. Build the drawers by first creating the bottom. Cut the bottom from a 1×24, cut at 12 1/4″ long. Then cut 3/4″ off the 12 1/4″ end, creating a bottom measuring 12 1/4″ x 22 3/4″. Then fasten the back to the bottom. Then the sides. Check for square. Use the undermount drawer slides to attach the faceless drawer into the drawer opening. The drawer will sit flush with the back of the cabinet.

Step 7

Drawer Face. Build your drawer face by fastening the rails and stiles to the back piece using glue and clamps. You may also wish to use brad nails 5/8″ long, or screws. If you cannot find stock in the correct species 3/8″ thick, you can use 1/4″ thick, but you will need to add rails and stiles to the fronts and backs of your center plywood to obtain the total 3/4″ thickness.

With the drawer inserted into the cabinet, arrange the face on the drawer so that there is an even gap around all sides of the drawer face. Then fasten the face the sides and bottom of the drawer.

Project Type
Desk, Desk Systems and Project Table Plans
Cabinet Plans
Room
Storage Solutions
Craftroom
office
Style
Cottage Style Furniture Plans
Farmhouse Furniture

Comments

Caitlin (not verified)

Fri, 02/12/2010 - 07:22

Thank you for this! I want to build this system, but I think I should start with something simpler first! ;)

Jennifer (not verified)

Fri, 02/12/2010 - 07:38

I just wanted to tell you how much I appreciate your blog and your plans and the time you put into all your plans. Because of you and your amazing detailed plans, I now have the opportunity to fully furnish a show house with nothing but the furniture I create. I have a master bed room and bath, a boys room and a girls room with a toddler bed and a twin bed for each, a living room, dining room, play room and media room.

I cannot tell you how excited I am to have this opportunity and it is all because of you!

Everything will need to be completed by May, so I'll be sending you lots of photos :) Thank you again!!

Braden and Melanie (not verified)

Fri, 02/12/2010 - 11:43

I squealed in my head when I saw you made these plans (my little boy is sleeping or it probably would have been out loud). I cannot express how excited I am about building this. I am new to building so I am waiting for my SIL to come show me the ropes! I have showed your blog to so many people and they all LOVE everything. I think all of our houses will be furnished the same because it will all be things from your blog. haha! Thanks so much! The Logan collections is seriously been on my wish list for so long. I was about to buy a piece I was settling for when you posted it! I am squealing in my head right now!

Nancy @ Live l… (not verified)

Fri, 02/12/2010 - 11:55

Ever since I found you, my mouth has been hanging open in shock as I read each plan-it reads like a wonderful book! I have not attempted anything -yet-but was wondering how you would do the wall grid at http://www.pbteen.com/gift/thm/thmguy/thmguypch/
My so likes it and I thought I could start simple! I would facebook you-but my kids are not a fan of me on facebook!Thanks!
~Nancy

Alisa D (not verified)

Fri, 02/12/2010 - 12:59

Love your site!! Thanks for all your ideas and inspiration. You have made me believe that my husband and I really can build some furniture of our own!! (my husband had suggested we could, but I didn't believe him! ha ha!) Have you considered doing plans for the bedford collection from pottery barn? We love that set and would like to duplicate it and would love any help. Thanks so much!

Tori and Chad (not verified)

Fri, 02/12/2010 - 14:46

I've never commented before because I haven't built anything yet. Actually, I think I only found you about two weeks ago but as soon as the weather warms up - I'm pretty much planning on builidng... um, everything.

Katie (not verified)

Fri, 06/25/2010 - 19:37

I am so excited to start building, and this system is one I'd like to do (won't be my first, though!). My sister has already built some things after I showed her this site. Anyway, I was wondering if there were plans for the CPU base side for the desk? I can't seem to find them. Thanks!

Claudia (not verified)

Thu, 08/26/2010 - 11:44

Hi Ana,

First of all: thank you for all the wonderful plans ! They are very easy to read and understand. I have a question for you: in all your plans containing drawers, you don't use hardware. So how do they slide in and out ? Again, thank you !

ana (not verified)

Sun, 08/29/2010 - 18:50

Claudia, if a drawer is short or low use, I don't use hardware. But if it's a deep or large drawer, or a drawer that get's used all the time, I do use hardware. Just remember that drawer slides usually need 1/2" clearance and are easy to install.

Melissa (not verified)

Tue, 10/12/2010 - 17:08

I've been working on this project and am hoping someone who has already finished the project can help with a question. Should "Cut List for the Box," item D read "1 – 1/4″ Plywood @ 17″ x 30″ (Back)" being 17" instead of 16 1/2"? 16 1/2" is too small to meet the side edges since the top is 17". The other plans I've looked at of Ana's meet "flush" with the edges of the project, although some professional furniture doesn't have the plywood meet flush.

Melissa (not verified)

Thu, 10/14/2010 - 07:03

I just got one of the cabinets built, minus the drawers (there's still a lot of finishing work to do, though) and have a couple tips for others using this plan:

1) The middle shelf trim is listed as 15 1/2" in the cut list for the trim, and 14" in the illustration. The illustration's measurement was correct for me.

2) You'll need more than one 1 x 2 x 8' for the project (one is about 2 1/2" too short). If you're making two filing cabinets, three will be more than enough.

This looks nice as a cabinet, without the drawers, for anyone who might want a desk with open shelving (although the shelves are deep). I'm building the desk without the drawers, but will add them eventually.

Have fun--it's a great plan (thanks, Ana!)! :)

Jenny Anne

Mon, 03/14/2011 - 18:09

I just finished a loft bed (my second project) and I think this will be my next one. I have to figure out how to modify it a lot, though, for the little space I want to put a desk.

Jodieth

Sun, 10/02/2011 - 16:14

Anna,
Thank you so much for your website and all the people that are members!
This project is similar to what I want to do for sewing room. I would like craft table coming out of it in-between from computer desk. When cutting out or crafting I could sit my machines down on floor. I am 5'9" and can not find any thing tall enough to work on.

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 12/20/2011 - 22:47

Ana- Love the site, thanks for all the help! At the beginning you say "These plans coupled with a few more, and you can create an entire office wall system." What/Where are the other plans? I would love to make this for our office. Thanks!

brianmoran12

Fri, 07/03/2015 - 05:49

Does anyone have a recommended set of Undermount Drawer Slides?

The $8 set at HomeDepot (Liberty Hardware) seems very flimsy. Rockler has some $35 Tandem Blumotion Drawer Slides that would more than double the cost of the project.

Is there a middle option? Do the cheap ones work fine?

Any tips for installing these slides? The directions for the cheap slides say I need 1/4 inch space/clearance on the bottom and 5/8 on the top. There needs to be 1/2 clearance on each side of the drawer. These plans look to be more than accommodating for that space.

Thank you in advance for your tips and suggestions. These plans look great and the pics that you have shared have inspired me to take this on!

procrastinator

Sun, 02/20/2022 - 12:56

Hi, I am in he process of building these bases, and have a question about the undermount slides. The total width of the drawer is 13 3/4" and the frame opening is 14. Typical undermount require more than 1/4" from what I can tell. Should two center mount style slides be used instead?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!