Kitty Tree

Kitty tree with ramps
Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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We have 2 cats, Secret and Noah. Secret is about 13 years old, while Noah is just a year. Secret has always had a kitty tree, and for the last 10 years, has been fed on the top of her tree, since she needed to lose weight. In the last year, I realized that she's been having problems getting up her tree because of her joints. We had already gotten Noah a tree of his own (that kitty needs to climb!).

So enter me with the kreg jig! Rather than try to locate a tree with ramps, I decided to build one. I sketched out plans, but while building it, I made adjustments on the fly.

Secret on the upper ramp to her old tree.

The additional photo is of Secret walking across the upper ramp to her old kitty tree to her food bowl. At the time, she was looking down at Noah who was only a month or two old at the time.

The upper ramp is a 12 foot board (10" wide) that we lugged up the stairwell in our condo. It wouldn't fit in the elevator, so my husband and I had to teeter-totter it up the stairwell. Boy was that a workout! There is a 4"x4" post about halfway between the stairs and the kitty condo for support.

2' x 2' x 5.5'

Preparation

Shopping List

1/2" thick plywood
7 - 2 x 2 x 8 (I think)

Tools
Kreg Jig
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the shelf supports. Since I wanted a 2'x2' area, and was using 2"x2" corner pieces, these would have been about 21" long.

Step 2

I put a pocket hole at each end of the supports. Since they would be even around the structure, I put each hole right of center, to avoid any screws hitting each other.

Step 3

All side supports cut and drilled.

Step 4

I wasn't too worried about the height. We have another piece of wood that extends from the stairs over to the kitty condo, so I knew it needed to be about 5 1/2 feet tall.

Drilled pocket holes on what would be the "bottom" of each.

Step 5

Step 6

Repeat. I laid them on the lanai to make sure I got the shelf supports at the same place. That proved a little difficult with my limited space - I had to move a few things are around.

Step 7

Tricky part commences - attaching it to the "floor" and adding the other parts in. Did I mention I do this work by myself?

Step 8

Almost there - just have a few more supports to put into place.

Step 9

I then used plywood pieces to put in the ramps and the levels. I was going to have the ramps alternate, but realized I wouldn't be able to put the tree right up to the wall, so instead they all go the same way. I also realized that each level was going to have to stick out, so that Secret would have room to go up and down the ramps, and turn around (think of a landing on a set of stairs).

The "ground" floor is used more for storage, and she enters the "1st" floor by another older ramp we have. You can see part of the upper ramp that leads from the stairs in the upper left of the picture. This gives Secret an exit, no matter which way Noah comes towards her.

The other thing I added later on was some "speed bumps" on the 2 ramps. The ramps are just a little steep for her, and the speed bumps (some 1x2 scraps) give her something to brace against. The "1st" and "2nd" floors have since been carpeted.

Step 10

Noah checking out the ground floor.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
I left all holes and carpeted most of it. Some of it remains raw now, but I do intend to poly coat the remainder of the raw wood.

Comments

nancy sandoval (not verified)

Mon, 08/15/2011 - 09:12

but, I live in a one bedroom condo so its kind of big for my place . So I am going to scale it down and see how that works. Thank you for the great idea...

Keli Mcclour (not verified)

Sat, 08/20/2011 - 15:49

Its so good seeing another person who completely spoils her "fur babies" as I do! I need to build one of these for my 3 cats. Thanks for sharing! Btw, has it helped Secret lose weight? I have a 7 year old cat who could lose a few pounds.

moemoore

Sun, 08/21/2011 - 13:01

Since we have been feeding Secret at the top of some sort of kitty tree for at least 6 years, it definitely has helped. The problem now is that kitten Noah gets into her food! We'll know next month when she goes for her 6 month appointment if she's put on weight because she was getting into his food in retaliation!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

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Still Have Questions?

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