Eco Modular Office Desktop made with PureBond Plywood

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This free simple step by step Do It Yourself Project Plan shows you how to use PureBond Formaldehyde Free plywood to create a desktop system.

mod office
mod office
mod desktop

I've been feeling lately like the room I spend most of my time in is needing to get more colorful and inspiring.

 
(click for larger view)
 

Not My Prison

Never a girl to go anywhere without a plan, this is what I've come up with for the basic projects to create a fun and inspiring office.  Remember, I'll be sitting in this office through December and January in Alaska, a time of scarce sun and harsh weather.  Will need all the bright cheerful colors!
 
And since windows are not getting opened for seven or eight months, we are committed to using green building materials for the entire space.  And that means all wood components are made with PureBond Formaldehyde Free plywood.  
 

Open Base

I love the open base because it holds my computer and gives me a place to quickly and easily store files and paper.  It's made of Red Oak PureBond Plywood - very beautiful with clear varnish on it!
 
 

Drawer Base

But I also love the drawer base too because it holds files and the two smaller drawers are perfect for accessories and such.  I plan to put new hardware on this guy. 
 
 

Office Divider

But I LOVE this the most, the large center bookshelf that gives me and my husband our own desks, despite the tiny space.  We use the center desktop area of the bookshelf as a collab area, but my mess stays mine . . . and his neatness stays his.
 
 

Most Major Components Built!

The good news is most of the major components are already built!  Today I will show you how to build the long desktop.
 
 
And in the next few weeks, I will be taking on quite a few more DIY projects to liven up this space, all with a fresh green attitude!  Fun fun!
 
 

I am very grateful to have been supplied with PureBond Plywood in Red Oak for this project. Thank you Columbia Forrest Products for your generosity and making beautiful plywood that is made responsibly and better for our indoor air quality.

Dimensions
desktop plans
Dimensions are shown above. If you needed to go longer than 8 feet, place a splice in the middle of the desktop over the center bookshelf.

Preparation

Shopping List

1 - sheet of PureBond Formaldehyde Free Plywood cut into a strip 8 feet long and 22 1/4" wide 1 - 1x2 - 8 feet long in a matching wood veneer

1 - 1x2 - 10 feet long in a matching wood veneer 3/4" Edge Banding roll (25') in a matching veneer

Common Materials
1 1/4 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
Cut List

1 - 3/4" PureBond Plywood @ 22 1/4" x 96" (Desktop)

6 - 1x2 @ 17 1/2"

6 - 1x2 @ 15 1/2"

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

The most confusing part for me was trying to figure out where the spacers go. And trust me - you want the spacers. It gives the desktop a more finished look and creates a more profound height difference from the bookshelf desktop to the full desktop.

So take a 1x3 or use a chalkline and draw lines as shown in diagram along edges. Use these lines to guide you. Measure and mark the placement of the first boards as shown above.

Use 1 1/4" finish nails and wood glue to attach carefully.

Step 2

Now things get easy! Just finish the boxes as shown here.

Apply edge banding to the front and sides (or all four sides) with an iron and trim edges off, followed by a quick sanding to finish plywood edges.

Step 3

When placed correctly, the top of the desktop will line up with the outsides of your bases. Screw to enable easy assembly/disassembly through the 1x2 spacers.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

rtc (not verified)

Fri, 09/16/2011 - 12:04

Hi Ana,
I live in AK too and was wondering where you got the plywood? Did you have to special order it? Is it much more terribly expensive than ordinary plywood?

In reply to by rtc (not verified)

Ana White

Fri, 09/16/2011 - 13:28

Hi RTC, I feel your pain! It took months for me to get this plywood up here :( the kind people at PureBond had it shipped to me.

I suggest bugging your local Home Depot to carry PureBond plywood. If enough of us bug them, they might hear us!

Lady Goats

Fri, 09/16/2011 - 12:29

Ok, Ana... I want 4 yards of the fabric that you upholstered your chairs in STAT! Seriously!? I LOVE that! The whole room looks amazing! And I can't wait to see the finished room compared to the SU plan. Love it!

Supermom77 (not verified)

Sun, 09/18/2011 - 20:51

What color would you paint the wall behind this desk unit if it is made of cherry? Any suggestions would be great.

Sharenda (not verified)

Mon, 09/19/2011 - 05:23

I really wish had your power tools :) I love looking at all you designs

nicholaix

Wed, 11/20/2013 - 12:53

My two boys are going to get this for a craft/homework/ Lego center. The divider bookshelf should keep them from killing each other....maybe......

Rumblebee5161

Wed, 01/27/2016 - 12:15

I noticed in your post that you used the Red Oak PureBond plywood. Were you able to get this in a full 4X8 sheet? I'm looking to build this desk and Home Depot only carries the 4X8 sheets in Maple and Birch veneers. Will those work? I see I can get 2X8 pieces of the Red Oak, which should work given the cut list, but it is quite a bit more expensive for these smaller project panels. If I were going to go with the larger panels does it make a difference in quality/durabilitiy between Maple or Birch, or is it more of a aesthetic decision? I'm fairly new to wood working and this is by far the biggest project I've tackled yet so i want to make sure I get good materials. Love the site BTW! I think my wife wants me to build everything on here!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!