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36" Corner Base Easy Reach Kitchen Cabinet - Basic Model

36 Corner Base Easy Reach Kitchen Cabinet
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Difficulty
Intermediate
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How to build a Easy Reach Corner Base Cabinet for kitchen cabinets. This plan is simple and economical to build. Free step by step plans including cut list, shopping list and detailed diagrams and instructions.

With all the kitchen plans - and most all of my plans for the matter - I like to have the main box boards ripped down to a standard size board, and go from there. Be it a 1x12 or 1x16 or 1x24 - yes, that's not really a board size - by using standard width boards in plans, you can:

  • Maximize materials use. There are no odd looking scraps with circular saw cuts and possibly square edges laying in your scrap pile.  Instead, you are left with standard width boards that you can build more cabinets or furniture with.  Bonus: a standard practice is to rip plywood into 12, 16 or 24 widths for the least amount of waste.
  • Simplify cutting.  Anyone that's every cut random sized rectangles out of plywood knows this is easier said than done.  If you can't cut all the way through with a circular saw or tablesaw, you have to cut beyond the cut or finish the cut with a jigsaw or handsaw.  And then you are working with a piece of plywood with a piece cut out of it.  By ripping into widths to start out, all you have to do when you build is make straight cross cuts.
  • Better cuts.  By making full length rips and cross cuts, you are always making long straight cuts which tend to be more accurate than following along a chalk line.  And a good cut is very important in making square cabinets - especially when they all line up in a row!
  • Easier to handle/transport.  Well, I'll admit it.  Picking up a sheet of 3/4" plywood is heavy.  And trying to fit it in my car is impossible.  Having the nice guy - or gal - at the hardware store rip it into 16" widths first just makes everything easier.
So this corner cabinet has been keeping me up at night, nagging at me to create a design from 1x24s as we call them (they are really 3/4" thick x 22 3/4" wide).  Sure, cutting out 3 foot by 3 foot shapes for the bottom and shelves, and then more for the sides and backs would make a very strong cabinet.  But it will use a ton of plywood up and create quite a few challenges.  It's absolutely a great way to go if you've got the tools and budget and I'll be posting more complicated corner cabinet plans shortly.
But I wanted to post first a more economical option that can be made from just one sheet of 3/4" plywood or MDF or - this is painful to write - particle board (plus your 1x2 frame and the 1/4" back and doors and 2x4 base).  Something easy to build, that uses the same 22 3/4" wide boards we use for all the base kitchen cabinet plans.  
Like all kitchen cabinet plans, I'm uploading to Google 3D Warehouse so you can download the models and design your own kitchen.  Golly, I love that program!
Now for the plans. Credit: The wood grain for these plans are shown using PureBond Formaldehyde Free Plywood in birch.  

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36 Corner Base Easy Reach Kitchen Cabinet

Good luck building! We've got tons more plans to add to the collection, if there's something you'd like to see a plan for, make sure you holler!

Dimensions
36 Corner Base Easy Reach Kitchen Cabinet
The corner cabinet is designed for standard 36" x 36" corner with 34 1/2" height and works with existing cabinet plans with full overlay/face frames.

Preparation

Shopping List

1 - sheet 3/4" plywood ripped into 22 3/4" widths, 8 feet long (we'll be calling these 1x24s in this plan) PS - Save the scrap in the center! 1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long 1 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long (for the supports) 2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long 1 - sheet 1/4" plywood

Common Materials
1 1/4 inch finish nails
1-1/4" Pocket Hole Screws
Elmer's Wood Glue
Elmer's Wood Filler
120 grit sandpaper
Cut List

Box 3 - 1x24 @ 31" 1 - 1x24 @ 33 3/4" (make another for shelves) 1 - 1x24 @ 11 3/4" 2 - 1x4 (or scrap plywood) @ 33 3/4" 2 - 1x4 (or scrap plywood) @ 11 3/4" 2 - 1/4" plywood @ 35 1/4" x 34 1/2" Face Frame 2 - 1x2 @ 31" 2 - 1x2 @ 10 1/2" 2 - 1x2 @ 11 1/4" Base 2 - 2x4 @ 35 1/4" 4 - 2x4 @ 17 1/2" 2 - 2x4 @ 14 3/4" Doors 2 - 3/4" thick x 10 3/4" x 30 1/4"

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Level
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

The main thing to remember in this plan is to drill all your pocket holes first. And if you are attaching face frames with pocket holes, drill them before assembly. One of our very bright readers suggested drilling pocket holes for face frame attachments on the outsides because they will be covered up anyway and the inside will be completely finished. Great stuff!

Attach bottom to sides with glue and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Once you get the main box built, it's time to add some supports. These could be the 1x4s or the scrap strip of plywood leftover from ripping into 1x24 strips.

Step 3

Now it's time to add the bottom for the adjoining side. You will need to use 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and 3/4" pocket holes to attach.

Make sure you predrill pocket holes for attaching face frame and side.

This seam will be fully supported by the base in later steps.

Step 4

Now attach the side.

Step 5

Step 6

Build the face frame first, and then attach. Remember the sides overhang by 1/4" to give you some "wiggle" room when installing the cabinets.

Step 7

Build bases seperately also, drilling holes for attaching to bottom of cabinet. Attach in place.

Step 8

Plywood the backs, attaching with glue and 1 1/4" finish nails and 3/4" finish nails when you nail into 3/4" thick boards.

Step 9

There's different ways you can do shelves, but I personally loved this way. Maybe because we always have a 50lb bag of rice to find a home for? I recommend fixing the shelf in place with screws rather than shelf pins just due to the size of it.

I saw IKEA cabinets that stagger straight shelves so they overlap only in the conres and thought that was a neat and simple solution as well. Gives you some tall, some short storage too.

Step 10

When you go to install the cabinets in your kitchen, I recommend attaching backs to walls to support heavier countertops.

Step 11

These doors are sized for full overlay face frame cabinets. The gap between cabinets is sized for narrow profile hinges, 3/4" x 3" - see next diagram

Step 12

There are other hinges types, this is the most basic installation. If you choose a different hinge type, you may need to adjust your door widths for the best fit. My recommendation is to take any scrap 3/4" plywood - that is if you have any! - and cut door slabs and fit until you are happy before making doors.

Step 13

And this one is just to show how the cabinets line up with other models. Gaps between doors and drawers is in totally 1/2" everywhere.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type
Kitchen Cabinet Plan, Accessories and Serving
Room
kitchen
Style
Farmhouse Furniture

Comments

annalea

Fri, 01/20/2012 - 00:20

These look almost exactly like the Ikea cabinets I've been eyeing . . . but I can make these with Purebond. Hooray! I think the only mod I'd make is to have an angled door (if I could make my countertops work with that . . . it might take some doing).

Thank you so much!

Now, if there was only an "Add to my To-Do List" link at the top of each post, so when I come to the site to add a plan to my To-Do List (after reading the post in my reader), I don't have to scroll and scroll, miss the end, scroll and scroll, miss the end coming back up, and then finally find it. lol

Kathy Webster-Link (not verified)

Fri, 01/20/2012 - 07:40

We are getting ready to really dig in to remodeling our kitchen. It's been a slow work in progress for a while because of the cost of kitchen cabinets. I think we can follow these plans well enough to build our own! Now just need to talk the hubster into buying that Kreg Jig I keep looking at at my local home store! Thanks so much.

dhendy13

Fri, 01/20/2012 - 09:35

Anna, your a wizard at this.... but I just a thought.

I had a cabinet just like this at my last home. My builder had a great Idea to put in a round 2 tiered rotating shelving unit. (Lazy Susan @ Rockler $42.00) This saved alot of akward reaching and stress on the back getting out the various baking ingredient containers, electrical appliances....etc. This also gave us a place to put the larger baking sheets, giant cutting board and....
you get my drift. The only down sided was losing that last little bit of space in the back corner.

Good luck!

dhendy13

Fri, 01/20/2012 - 09:35

Anna, your a wizard at this.... but I just a thought.

I had a cabinet just like this at my last home. My builder had a great Idea to put in a round 2 tiered rotating shelving unit. (Lazy Susan @ Rockler $42.00) This saved alot of akward reaching and stress on the back getting out the various baking ingredient containers, electrical appliances....etc. This also gave us a place to put the larger baking sheets, giant cutting board and....
you get my drift. The only down sided was losing that last little bit of space in the back corner.

Good luck!

tracysmith

Fri, 01/20/2012 - 12:48

I get so excited when I see your plans for the cabinets - my husband and I were going to try our hand at them and I've been so nervous about doing it because I didn't know how they would go together, if they would be strong enough, etc.

Then, when I saw your cabinets I got excited again because you break it down for me to understand and I now realize I could build a whole house full of cabinets if I really want to!

Thank you so much for allowing us to ride along with you on your journey and teach us along your way! As I've said before, you are a ROCK STAR!!!!!

Ginna (not verified)

Sat, 01/21/2012 - 14:13

Hi Ana,

Another option (I did this in my last kitchen), is to use a blind corner pullout.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=43657&cat=3,43722,4372…

That way, you gain access to the whole area, and the other half can be used for drawers etc. Not cheap, of course, especially when you are DIYing. But I do find things get "lost" in corner cabinets.

I suspect someone could come up with a clever, cheaper solution.

Calmly

Fri, 01/27/2012 - 09:35

I love your work. I would like to take the challenge of building myself some kitchen cabinets, but I have never done this type of work. You make it seem so easy. What skill level do I have to be in order to tackle such a job.? Also would you be able to give me some pointers as I take this challenge?

Reys (not verified)

Sat, 01/28/2012 - 02:23

What a great tutorial. I'm looking forward to some project for beginners woodworkers and this was one of the best I found. In details, I must be easy to understand. Thanks a lot for sharing.

Calmly

Sun, 01/29/2012 - 16:17

Hi Ana, I was off today seeking price quotes for tools and wood. Since I live in the Virgin islands, we do not have the ply wood you used. The one I saw was untreated Baboon ply. Will this work for cabinets? Also we do not have the Kreg Jig. What should I do about that? The set I saw does not have haft the things sew in the Kreg jig set. Help!! I need all the help I can get.

katieevans140@… (not verified)

Thu, 03/01/2012 - 17:16

Order a Kreg Jig online!!! You won't be disappointed!!!

katieevans140@… (not verified)

Thu, 03/01/2012 - 17:14

Ana,

I'm thinking about gutting my kitchen and starting over now that you have ssssssooooooo kindly posted cabinet plans! Do you have any thoughts on how I could use the corner cabinet as a sink base? For example, I would like to used Blue's CorStone Double Basin Acrylic Topmount Kitchen Sink (Item # 193388, Model # 31300). Any idea how to change the plan to accomodate a double basin sink? My thought is it would be a good use of the corner since it can be tough to get inside a cabinet. Instead the plumbing can go in there.

Any input you can give me would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Katie

JessicaR (not verified)

Mon, 08/20/2012 - 09:40

I recall reading somewhere that Ana is building these cabinets strong enough to withstand pouring a cement countertop directly onto the cabinets (as opposed to just bringing one in and placing it on top) so I would think that it should be strong enough to hold a sink. I'd suggest contacting your sink manufacturer for installation requirements. I'd also suggest maybe making the front flat. We had a corner sink in the house I grew up in and a "flat" front made it easier to access than if it was in a normal corner.

Mary Graves (not verified)

Sun, 03/18/2012 - 14:42

I am going to attempt this project tomorrow with my mom. I purchased solid hardwood kitchen cabinets used off Craigslist and the kitchen they came out of had NO corner cabinets at all (base or wall). So we decided to build one to match the other cabinets. I found your plans through a search and I'm very excited to use them. They seem pretty simplified and should help us get this thing done right! I'll post once I've finished with pictures! :-)

richard (not verified)

Sat, 03/31/2012 - 00:40

This is just what I was looking for,,do you have any other plans such as for a lazy Susan.
helpful links I am trying to match existing cabinets and building additional ones for the additional room next to kitchen.

DIYrookie (not verified)

Sun, 07/01/2012 - 14:36

We started with the 36" sink base (very easy) and then we built this one (even easier on the second try). Then we proceeded to build the rest of the cabinets for our kitchen and bathroom using the ideas we learned building these. THANK YOU KREG, for building a jig that a monkey could use.

Jeff (not verified)

Thu, 01/10/2013 - 22:30

Hi Ana,

Thanks for showing me how to make a corner cabinet. I just finished it a few hours ago and my wife says it's beautiful. The advice to have the lumber store cut the wood for me worked out perfectly. Having the plans in the 3D warehouse was an added benefit as I have used SketchIt for years. A small correction, The material list says one 1x4x8 but it is not long enough to cut all the pieces for the face frame. However, I could not have done any of this w/o all your excellent documentation. I can't wait to start on the next cabinet. Thank you again.

TamWow

Mon, 06/14/2021 - 05:25

This was my first cabinet building experience.

The plans were really great and everything worked out except for one thing: my house didn’t have an exterior door wide enough to fit the cabinet through. So I had to remove the base and cut the 1/4 inch plywood which was very easy to repair.

I learned so much from this cabinet making experience and I was able to custom build an oddly shaped EZ reach corner cabinet for the other corner of my kitchen.

Who knew making cabinets would be so satisfying?!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!