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Easy Build Wood Headboard (All Mattress Sizes)

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Easy DIY planked wood headboard build - no special tools required!  This beautiful headboard gives that wood texture to your bedroom - without costing a fortune or being a huge project.  You can use inexpensive pine boards or furring strips.  Free step by step plans by ANA-WHITE.com

 

Photos submitted by Cynthia and Nicole.

Simplicity and the beauty of soild wood come together in this headboard to transform a room. This project can be completed in just a few hours. Available in all standard bed sizes.

Easy to build, all you need is a saw and nails - you can even use a hammer and nails!  

easy to build wood headboard

Most builders are spending about $50 making this beauty.  Be sure to check out brag posts.  

Free plans follow!

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Easy Build Wood Headboard (All Mattress Sizes)

Dimensions
queen wood headboard
57 1/4" x 65 1/2" dimensions for queen size as shown

Preparation

Shopping List

Twin Lumber Shopping List

  • 2 – 1×2 – 8′ Length
  • 7 – 1×3 – 8′ Length
  • 3 – 1×4 – 10′ Length
  • 1 – 1×6 – 10′ Length
  • 1 – 2×4 – 8′ or Stud Length

Full Shopping List

  • 2 – 1×2 – 8′ Length
  • 7 – 1×3 – 8′ Length
  • 4 - 1×4 – 10′ Length
  • 1 – 1×4 – 6′ Length
  • 3 – 1×6 – 5′ Length
  • 1 – 2×4 – 8′ or Stud Length

Queen Lumber Shopping List

  • 2 – 1×2 – 8′ Length
  • 7 – 1×3 – 8′ Length
  • 4 - 1×4 – 10′ Length
  • 1 – 1×4 – 6′ Length
  • 3 – 1×6 – 5′ Length
  • 1 – 2×4 – 8′ or Stud Length

Standard King Shopping List

  • 2 – 1×2 – 8′ Length 
  • 7 – 1×3 – 8′ Length 
  • 9 - 1×4 – 8′ Length 
  • 3 - 1×6 – 8′ Length 
  • 1 – 2×4 – 8′ or Stud Length 

 California King Lumber for California King 

  • 2 – 1×2 – 8′ Length 
  • 7 – 1×3 – 8′ Length 
  • 5 - 1×4 – 12′ Length 
  • 4 - 1×6 – 6′ Length 
  • 1 – 2×4 – 8′ or Stud Length
Common Materials
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
Elmer's Wood Glue
Elmer's Wood Filler
120 grit sandpaper
Cut List

Cut List for Twin

  • 6 - 1×3 @ 55″ (Fronts and backs of Legs)
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 55″ (Inside of Legs)
  • 5 – 1×4 @ 39″ (Panel Pieces)
  • 3 – 1×6 @ 39″ (Panel Pieces)
  • 4 – 1×4 @ 37″ (Panel Trim, Front and Back)
  • 1 – 1×3 @ 43 1/2″ (Top Trim)
  • 1 – 2×4 @ 44 1/2″ (Top of Headboard)

 

Cut List for Full

  • 6 - 1×3 @ 55″ (Fronts and backs of Legs)
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 55″ (Inside of Legs)
  • 5 – 1×4 @ 54″ (Panel Pieces)
  • 3 – 1×6 @ 54″ (Panel Pieces)
  • 4 – 1×4 @ 52″ (Panel Trim, Front and Back)
  • 1 – 1×3 @ 58 1/2″ (Top Trim)
  • 1 – 2×4 @ 59 1/2″ (Top of Headboard)

 

Cut List for Queen

  • 6 - 1×3 @ 55″ (Fronts and backs of Legs)
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 55″ (Inside of Legs)
  • 5 – 1×4 @ 60″ (Panel Pieces)
  • 3 – 1×6 @ 60″ (Panel Pieces)
  • 4 – 1×4 @ 58″ (Panel Trim, Front and Back)
  • 1 – 1×3 @ 64 1/2″ (Top Trim)
  • 1 – 2×4 @ 65 1/2″ (Top of Headboard)

Cut List for Standard King 

  • 6 – 1×3 @ 55″ (Fronts and backs of Legs) 
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 55″ (Inside of Legs) 
  • 5 – 1×4 @ 76″ (Panel Pieces) 
  • 3 – 1×6 @ 76″ (Panel Pieces) 
  • 4 – 1×4 @ 74″ (Panel Trim, Front and Back) 
  • 1 – 1×3 @ 80 1/2″ (Top Trim) (measure before cutting) 
  • 1 – 2×4 @ 81 1/2″ (Top of Headboard) (measure before cutting) 

Cut List for California King 

  • 6 – 1×3 @ 55″ (Fronts and backs of Legs) 
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 55″ (Inside of Legs) 
  • 5 – 1×4 @ 72″ (Panel Pieces) 
  • 3 – 1×6 @ 72″ (Panel Pieces)
  • 4 – 1×4 @ 70″ (Panel Trim, Front and Back) 
  • 1 – 1×3 @ 76 1/2″ (Top Trim) (measure to fit) 
  • 1 – 2×4 @ 77 1/2″ (Top of Headboard) (measure to fit)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Work on a clean level surface. Use necessary safety precautions. Measure and cut your boards to fit your piece – measurements given are for a perfect build, and you may find your headboard off a tiny bit. So on the trim and top pieces, measure to fit, using the given cut list as a approximate measurement. Use glue and check for square after each step.

Standard King Dimensions

king dimensions

 

Dimensions for Full

full size dimensions

Instructions

Step 1

Legs. Begin building the legs by fastening the 1×2 middle piece to the 1×3 front leg piece, as shown above. To hide your nail holes, fasten for the 1×2 board into the back side of the 1×3 board. Keep outside edges flush.

Step 2

Panel Pieces. Starting on the top, fasten the panel pieces as shown above. The red pieces are 1×4 boards, the blue are 1×6 boards. Use 1 1/4″ nails and glue. Check for square. Hide your nail holes as you did in step 1.

Step 3

Back of Legs. Use 2″ nails and glue to fasten the back of the legs in place. Fasten to the panel pieces and the middle leg piece. Keep outside edges flush.

Step 4

Trim Pieces. Start by fastening the front trim pieces by using 1 1/4″ nails and nailing through the back into the back edge of the front trim. This will hide your nail holes. Then fasten the back trim in place using 2″ nails and glue.

Step 5

Step 6

Top Trim. As shown above, measure and cut your top trim piece. The distance will be the overall width of the headboard at this step. Keeping the top trim flush with the outer leg and the front of the headboard, use 2″ nails and glue to fasten in place.

Step 7

Top of Headboard. Cut the top of the headboard piece 1″ longer than the trim piece from step 6. Mark 1/2″ in from all sides. Center on top of the headboard and fasten in place with glue and 2″ nails.

Step 8

Finishing. Fill any visible nail holes with wood filler and sand and finish as desired. A bed frame can be attached by drilling holes in the fronts of the legs, and using bolts and nuts inserted in the slots open in the insides of the legs.

Project Type
Beds and Bed Frames
Headboard
Room
Bedroom
Style
Farmhouse Furniture

Comments

Brandon (not verified)

Sat, 03/06/2010 - 08:50

I think I might have some ideas on how to achieve that finish. Distressing the wood is great, and glaze is a MUST but you might want to look into a product called texture putty. It's a lacquer based product that you can apply any number of ways, but you can get that 150 year old weathered look in about 25 minutes. Just apply it over your stained wood, and manipulate it how you need before it dries. Then apply glaze and a clear coat for the sheen you want, and viola! You have a finished piece just like what they have here.

Kaely (not verified)

Sat, 03/06/2010 - 08:59

Oh, I think this maybe my first project. I need to practice with our nail gun (my husband says it jams up with shorter nails, so I'm gonna test it out). We are in desperate need of a headboard.

Could you post a cut list to make this as a King? :)

Melissa (not verified)

Sat, 03/06/2010 - 09:02

Wow this is a great project! I just found your site a few days ago, and you are amazing! I have been wanting a headboard for my bed for a while, and this is perfect. Any chance you will be posting plans for a king-size bed?

sjvirchow

Fri, 05/09/2014 - 08:02

Did you ever get plans for this headboard in a king size? I would like to build this but haven't heard back. Thanks so much!

emilytaylor225

Fri, 03/20/2015 - 04:35

Really you just need to find another king bed plan on here and see the inside width. Adjust the plan here to accommodate the king. I am an amature but I have already built a Queen headboard from the farmhouse bed plan on this site. It turned out beautifully and it was easy enough. With a straight forward plan like this I can only imagine stretching it to fit a king bed should be easy. Good luck!!!

Lindsay (not verified)

Sat, 03/06/2010 - 13:25

I love this one! I'm not quite sure my husband and I are ready for the Farmhouse bed (I love it, but we've never built a THING in our lives!), I think this would be a great first project. I'd love the plans for a king please!

Kelly (not verified)

Sat, 03/06/2010 - 13:25

Hi! This is my first comment on your blog, but I have been lurking for at least a month! This will (hopefully) be my first project from here. I just broke down and bought a pneumatic nailer to finish some trim in our bathroom and I am ready to ROCK the Mason headboard. Could you please, please make the adjustments for a king size? (My husband will thank you - he's 6'5" and can't stand footboards!!!

lindar

Sun, 07/24/2011 - 13:38

I just found you blog and I am a huge fan! I have been without a headboard for years and would love to give this a shot. I too would love to have the King Plans if possible.
Thank you for sharing all your wonderful ideas.

Tara (not verified)

Sat, 03/06/2010 - 15:23

Love the plans and would love to have a king size plans!

Thank you for all the plans and the time you spend! They are great!

Beth in NY (not verified)

Sat, 03/06/2010 - 15:43

My brother in law has a barn on his property that is falling down- he told me to 'have at' the boards, and I think they'll be perfect for this project! (In a King size, if you could!) Thanks!

Blogging with … (not verified)

Sun, 03/07/2010 - 04:05

My hubby and I want to build this ASAP - love it! Need a king size please - so excited!

Anonymous (not verified)

Sun, 03/07/2010 - 05:31

we know your super busy but would love the king size directions we just bought a new bed cal king and have been eyeing some of your bed frame plans cant decide what to make but we definately need the king size directions!!!!

Anonymous (not verified)

Sun, 03/07/2010 - 07:08

I love your site. I'm going to do a full. For King Size, all you need to do is extend the length of the panel boards.

Brenda (not verified)

Sun, 03/07/2010 - 18:17

Thanks so much for the king size plans. I'm hoping to talk my husband into making this. I'll post pictures if we do. :)

Serena (not verified)

Sun, 03/07/2010 - 21:47

I love this! I think I am going to build it for our guest bedroom. Thank you so much for the plans!

Cassidy (not verified)

Tue, 04/13/2010 - 09:24

I've got this all put together and it looks NOTHING like the gorgeous finished product! It seriously must ALL be in the finishing. {pushing up sleeves and diving in!}

Rebecca (not verified)

Tue, 04/20/2010 - 15:31

I love this headboard! I am a little confused(it doesn't take much :)). With this:
6 - 1x3 @ 55" (Fronts and backs of Legs
I only count needing 4 what are the other 2 for or am I just missing something?

Christine (not verified)

Mon, 05/03/2010 - 14:10

Great plans Ana! I have never built anything before, but this was definitely doable for me by myself. My husband taught me how to use the circular saw and then took a nap. By the time he woke up, I was nailing in the last board! Can't wait to finish it.

Natty (not verified)

Tue, 06/15/2010 - 07:03

I am building this now and the only power tool I am using is a sander! I decided that I don't have to wait until I can afford a mitre saw and pneumatic nailer to get building :)

Will email pics once I'm finished!

Da (not verified)

Sun, 06/27/2010 - 05:49

How would you make this into a bed with side rails and a footboard? I was also looking at how you attached the bedrails on other beds and will a couple of screws hold up well for some... bedroom activity?

Nick Talkers (not verified)

Sun, 07/18/2010 - 16:17

To get the pottery barn look, I used a mahogany gel stain. This was easy because you can apply it as light/dark as you want and wipe off. If you go darker in the cracks, creases, etc, it makes it very easy to achieve the same look. A few coats of a semi-gloss polycrylic and it looks great!

Crystal (not verified)

Fri, 09/03/2010 - 03:53

The link for the King bed is no longer available. My Girlfriend and I want to build it together. (one for each of us) Is there another place to find the shopping list and cut list?

I just finished the console table. Thank You!!!

livaward (not verified)

Thu, 09/09/2010 - 12:17

I just finished making this headboard and I am in love! I posted on your facebook also with a picture.....just wanted to say I made a rookie mistake and cut all my boards first so my panel pieces came a bit short and there is a gap.....so I'll remember that for my next project!

Karrie Johnson (not verified)

Wed, 09/29/2010 - 05:26

Ana-
I love your site! Can you please advise what measurements would be needed to make this headboard in a twin size? My 3 year old daughter is ready for a big girl bed and I would love to make it for her, I didn't see any information for this in twin, only queen and king size. Thank you so much, your site is so inspiring!

-Karrie

Ian (not verified)

Fri, 10/08/2010 - 06:08

This is awsome!
I found out about your site yesterday and buit this headboard after work. I finished assembling it arond 10h30pm and all thats left is the sanding and staining.
I used the ruff lumber since is was WAY cheaper and look alot more like reclaimed wood. It did take me a long time to choose the wood since most of the ruff lumber is crooked or too ruff. The outcome looks nice. I will post picture later.

Are most using ruff lumber or planks?

Matt (not verified)

Sun, 11/07/2010 - 04:00

Just an FYI to everyone here - these measurements are off... which is kind of a big deal when you're using reclaimed wood and you can't just get more.

Anyway, it's got the two top pieces measured at 64.5 inches and 65.5 inches. However, the panel pieces are 60" plus 2" on either side, plus an additional 3/4" if not an inch with the leg "caps". That brings the total width to 65.5" if not 66"... longer than the two top pieces are.

I don't know how to contact the author - but she really needs to know. I'm going to have to do some ripping now (since my leg pieces on the inside are a different type of wood) in order to cover it. Only had one 2x4 in the same wood... so I'm going to have to make it work somehow. Anyway, good luck! Other than that, it looks really good.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!