Free Range Nesting Box - Single

free range nesting box
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Build a nesting box with free plans from Ana-White.com

This nesting box can be set out in the yard or in a larger coop or run for nesting.  It features a roof for water drainage.  Our chickens loved this nesting box and took right to using it.

Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com

free range nesting box
free range nesting box
free range nesting box
free range nesting box

Why We Built this Nesting Box

Our chicken are free ranging in our yard, and I discovered this -

I decided to build a free range nexting box that they could use independant of the coop.

it?

 Hmmmmm .... looks nice and clean and cozy ....   

Dimensions
nesting box size
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 4 feet long
  • 2 - 72" long cedar fence pickets
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 2 feet long
  • 2" self tapping exterior wood screws
Cut List
  • 2 - 1x12 @ 16 1/2" (longest point measurement, one end cut at 20 degrees off square)
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 12"
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 12"
  • 4 - 5 1/2" wide cedar fence pickets @ 13 1/2" long
  • 3 - 5 1/2" wide cedar fence pickets @ 15 1/2" long
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

I put this nesting box together with just 2" screws and a countersink bit. NOTE: You can always raise the floor up too.

Step 2

Add the top supports.

Step 3

Now just add the cedar fence pickets to back and front.

On mine, I actually just used a scrap 1x4 for the front, but because you will have cedar fence picket scraps, I used those in the plans.

Step 4

And then just dry fit the roof boards on top. When you are happy, start at the bottom and work your way to the top. Easy peasy!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

kristen

Wed, 09/05/2012 - 17:51

I would love to get chickens, but I'm really afraid the hawks, fox, raccoons, and coyotes would cause big problems around here. We may try it and see how it goes...great nesting box plan if we do decide to hatch some yellow fluffballs!

Lisa B. (not verified)

Wed, 09/05/2012 - 20:06

I don't do chickens- wish we could have then in our neighborhood! Maybe back to back instead of side by side? That would provide at least some visual privacy! Silencing a chicken in action might not be as easy!

MoeWest (not verified)

Thu, 09/06/2012 - 07:41

What will you do with the chickens in the winter? Won't it be getting too cold for them pretty soon?

Project Finder (not verified)

Thu, 09/06/2012 - 08:08

I was just talking with my daughter yesterday about nesting boxes!

I have a desire to have a few chickens for eggs and we were discussing the need for coop and nesting boxes..I found this in my feeds today! Perfect timing
THANKS!

sdaguinsin

Thu, 09/06/2012 - 08:22

I cannot seem to find any way to upload a brag although I see that thousands of you are able to do it.

ANY ADVICE? I thought I would be able to do it after signing in, but there is no link or tab that alows me to do it.

Luvliljo (not verified)

Thu, 09/06/2012 - 10:50

Love the nesting box but how are you planning on keeping your chickens warm this winter? Are coop plans in the works?

little stuf

Fri, 09/07/2012 - 06:54

I love that you were able to pull this off so quickly for the chickens. Ana, your added dialog had me laughing out loud! I had to read it to my four year old and show him the pictures. He also thought it was funny! Thank you for sharing!

Chair

Sat, 09/08/2012 - 20:44

As long as hens are in an insulated, non-drafty, well-proportioned coop through the winter, they keep themselves warm. I'm not quite as far north as Anna (I'm in central Alberta, Canada) but I know several small-scale hen-keepers in my area who have had no problems with their hens keeping warm in the winter -without ANY source of heat. In fact, it's important to ensure there is ventilation in a coop or the girls can make the coop too warm and too damp from their breath.

*note* if a person wants eggs through the winter, the girls are going to need some kind of light, if I remember correctly, they need 15 hours of day light in order to lay.

I'm working on my own coop right now!

Jillian (not verified)

Sun, 09/09/2012 - 08:47

As someone who is completely freaked out by chickens I must tell you that "stripey" is a Bared rock I believe and they happen to be the nicest softest chickens in the world. If she will let you pet her and talk to her you will see how silky her feathers are compared to any other chicken. They are the only ones I have ever liked.

Dan Chasse (not verified)

Mon, 09/10/2012 - 03:25

I love your nesting box and your site. Your ideas are wonderful and I am always amazed at your creativity and ability to design complex items in a way that most people understand.

As I was looking at the photos of the nest box I noticed that the roof was a little odd. If you add a strip of shingle underneath the lower-most shingle, it will kick-out your first course to match the rest of the roof. I use this technique on the historic buildings I restore and it stops the lower most course from having a "flat" look to it.

Keep up the great work and congratulations on your new book.

Dan

AngelaJ (not verified)

Thu, 09/20/2012 - 23:51

Fantastic - I work in a hardware store and we have heaps of off cuts from different timbers that are just thrown in the bin! - Will be saving everything I can find now for when we can finally get some chooks....any plans for a coop? - We want to get about 8-10 girls...thanks so much for such a wonderful site!!!!

Anonymous Coward (not verified)

Tue, 11/13/2012 - 04:09

Looking at the hens, and the divided nest box ... the two nest areas were too small for those chickens. They need room to turn around while standing in the middle of the nest area, and they would be bumping the walls with their butts and tripping on the divider.

Measure your hens from breast to butt (that's "one hen length)", and make the nest box between 3/4 to 1.25 hen lengths squared. If you have a mixed flock with some bantam hens, make them a couple of smaller boxes sized to their needs.

Seasonal And Holiday

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!