Build a Simple Playhouse - Gable End Walls

DIY playhouse easy to build
Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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You can build your own playhouse and we are here to help! Just build the four walls in panels.  The Gable End Walls feature a window and full trim work. 

This playhouse plan is part of a series of plans:

In this plan, we show you how we built the gable end walls for the playhouse.

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Build a Simple Playhouse - Gable End Walls

Dimensions
dimensions for playhouse end walls
Overall Dimensions are shown above. Composition is sheathing of your choice for the outside, 2x2s for studs on the insides.

Preparation

Shopping List

Shopping List for TWO End Gable Panels

  • 2 – Sheets of Plywood Sheathing (I’m using 1/4″ Lauan because it’s water resistant and finished on two sides
  • 1 1/2″ nails or Screws (for fastening the sheathing to the studs)
  • 2 1/2″ Self Tapping Exterior Screws (for fastening the studs together)
  • Wood Glue
  • 8 – 2×2 Boards, 8′ Length
  • 2 – 1×3 Boards, 8′ Length

Common Materials
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

Cut List for TWO Gable End Walls

  • 8 – 2×2 @ 45″ (Wall Studs)
  • 4 – 2×2 @ 14″ (Window Framing)
  • 4 – 2×2 @ 48″ (Top and Bottom Plate, cut (1) 48″ and (1) 45″ board from an 8′ 2×2)
  • 4 – 2×2 @ 34″ (Both ends mitered down 45 degrees, ends will run perpendicular to each other)
  • 2 – Sheets of Sheathing Overall 48″ wide x 72″ tall, top angled down to match rafters
  • 4 – 1×3 @ 19″ (Window Trim)
  • 4 – 1×3 @ 18″ (Window Trim)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Window Framing
So this is not how you would frame a window in a real house, but because our walls are only 4′ tall and we’re just building a little playhouse, this will be plenty strong. And despite the way the frame looks, the load bearing walls are actually the side walls. Use the 2 1/2″ screws and glue to fasten the studs to the window frame.

Step 2

Wall Framing
Now add the top and bottom plates to the window studs, and also screw the end studs to the top and bottom plates. Use 2 1/2″ screws and glue.

Step 3

Rafters
Cut your rafters by mitering the ends at 45 degrees. Then use 2 1/2″ glue and nails to fasten the rafters together and to the wall as shown above.

Step 4

Sheathing
Cut out the sheathing as shown above. Refer to the dimensional diagram for window cutout dimensions. Fasten the sheathing to the studs using 1 1/2″ fasteners and glue.

Step 5

Step 6

I ended up using 1x2s for the window trim because I felt like when the window itself is put in, the frame will be quite thick. Use the measurements above to guild you when trimming out the gable ends for the playhouse.

4 – 1×2 @ 17″
4 – 1×2@ 18″
4 – 1×3 @ 48″
4 – 1×3 @ 43″
4 – 1×3 @ 34″ (Both ends mitered down 45 degrees)

You will need to in addition to the above cut list purchase (to trim out 2 gable end walls)
2 – 1x2s
6 – 1x3s

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill holes with exterior approved paintable silicone. Sand and paint or finish as desired.

Comments

Kirsten (not verified)

Thu, 05/13/2010 - 03:54

Yay! As always, so excited and THANK YOU so much for doing this!!

I have a plywood question for you--I have a couple sheets already that are NOT water resistant. Since I live in the PNW, that's not gonna work out:). Do you know what I could put on the sheets (the whole thing, actually!) that would allow me to use what I have?

Love the pic of all of you working on your house!!

Beth (not verified)

Thu, 05/13/2010 - 05:44

If i want to make this bigger can I just change the measurements and will it still have enough support? I have been planning on making one more like 8X10. Thanks!

Momma Rhyne (not verified)

Thu, 05/13/2010 - 05:50

About the plywood... most isn't water resistant, untreated and laying flat. But once the ends are covered and it is standing upright, as long as it's not in contact with the ground, a good paint job and you should be good.

Don't use pressure treated unless it is in contact with the ground. P.t wood is continually giving off fumes and very hazardous to children, especially if ingested.

Bethany (not verified)

Thu, 05/13/2010 - 06:06

No road access? Do you have to take a boat to get to the road to drive to the orange/blue??!! You must be the most organized person - I can see myself forgetting something and then what! You are amazing!

Ana White (not verified)

Thu, 05/13/2010 - 08:46

Don't limit yourself to just plywood. You can get a cabin look by using boards or even use siding. I have some leftover siding from the house that I might just burn up on the playhouse.

Stephanie (not verified)

Fri, 05/14/2010 - 10:04

My husband and I looked at the picture of the stairs to your adult playhouse and we agreed that it's just the sort of thing we need on our property (we're on a hill, too). So, would you be willing to share what went into your stairs?

Vanilla Comfort (not verified)

Sun, 05/16/2010 - 08:38

I want to build this so bad! But I'm not sure my two year old is ready for the raised playhouse yet. So I might just build the sand box part this summer and the pannels throughout the year (I have a long list of projects and am a full time nursing student). Plus my major concern is: once I build this, I will have the ENTIRE NEIGHBORHOOD of children in my backyard constantly. I already do and all we have is a plastic 4-wall play structure, the baby kind! I'm not kidding, these poor kids have NOTHING in their own backyards. I wish I could build something for all of them, but NOT in my own yard. I don't want to be responsible when they get hurt and you know they will. I get so nervous when they are out back alone....ug.

Anyways, I'm confused! How old is Grace? Isn't she only 3? So if the deck has been there 7 years, is that her in that first picture? And your hubs is so cute! You have an awesome family.

Ana White (not verified)

Sun, 05/16/2010 - 19:07

Thank you! Grace is 3 1/2 but the deck that has been there for seven years is the cabin foundation. The small deck we built last summer for our stairs. Next time, we'll build the stairs before the cabin LOL!

Betsy ~ GAhandygirl (not verified)

Sat, 05/22/2010 - 14:30

I'm thinking about NOT raising the playhouse and putting the sandbox underneath. that way we could ADD a porch maybe? to make it not so rustic and more girly girl southern. Awesome job.

b. (not verified)

Mon, 07/26/2010 - 12:12

me and my boys (ages 5.5, 4, & 1.5) are so excited to get started on this awesome plan! the only trouble i'm having is with the windows. where do you find actual windows to fit the plans dimensions? wondering if i missed something :)
thanks!

sanmaurais

Sat, 04/13/2013 - 17:08

Hi

I love this playhouse and I will be making for my little girls but for some reason I can't download the PDF version so I can print it out

sanmaurais

Sat, 04/13/2013 - 17:08

Hi

I love this playhouse and I will be making for my little girls but for some reason I can't download the PDF version so I can print it out

Joshual1177

Mon, 06/03/2013 - 06:07

I have an 8x10 concrete pad and I would like to modify these plans to have a framed and enclosed storage shed underneath this playhouse. I'm wondering how high up I could build this. I was thinking about maybe 4.5 to 5 feet up would be okay. I would frame out and sheath my walls for the shed underneath and anchor them to the concrete pad. Then I could frame the floor but I would probably need a beam to support the load, right? I would run my floor joists across the 8' span then run my decking, (2x4's or 2x6's), perpendicular to the joists.

I guess my two main concerns are:

1. How high up can I have my platform for my playhouse?
2. Do I need a beam to support the joists?

I would really like to utilize my concrete pad for both a small storage space underneath and a playhouse on top.

drdanelliott@g…

Wed, 05/20/2015 - 10:08

I am building a Tree House platform. I'd like to use the plan you have for this playhouse but need to double the heights (for big people too). If I just double the height of the portion below the peak roof and the depth, will the rest of the plan work?
[email protected]

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!