Ana's Slipper Chair

Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

A few years ago, Ana posted a drawing of a slipper chair on the Knock-Off Wood Facebook page. She hadn't had time to create the plans... I wanted to build the chair so I hacked Ana's drawing and created plans for it!

The only change I made to Ana's drawing was to lengthen the back so it was taller (and i could rest my head on it while relaxing!). The chair is upholstered before it is assembled and although I didn't take pictures of the upholstery process, it is very easy to do!

Dimensions
26" wide x 29-1/2" deep x 44" tall

Preparation

Shopping List

1 – 2x2 at 6’
3 – 2x4 at 8’
1 – 2x6 at 8’
Half sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
2-1/2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
4 – 4” carriage bolts with nuts
8 – fender washers
1” upholstery foam
5” upholstery foam
Upholstery batting
Fabric
Upholstery tacks

Common Materials
120 grit sandpaper
primer
paint
paint brush
Cut List

4 – 2x2 at 10” – Legs
5 – 2x4 at 23” – Leg Frame, Support, & Seat Box
2 – 2x4 at 26-1/2” – Leg Frame
2 – 2x4 at 24-1/4” – Seat Box
1 – 2x2 at 23” – Seat Support
2 – 2x6 at 34” – Back Frame Sides
3 – 2x4 at 23” – Back Frame
1 – 2x6 at 23” (ripped to 5” wide) – Back Frame Bottom
1 – ¼” lauan or hardboard at 26” x 30-1/2” – Back
1 – ¼” lauan or hardboard at 23-3/4” x 26” – Seat

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Staple Gun
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x4 pieces, as well as one long edge of the sides and the front (to attach the top). Assemble using glue and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. Paint or stain as desired and set aside.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the seat box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces, as well as the 2x2 support. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the seat and attach to the frame using glue and 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 4

Cut the 5" foam and position on the seat with spray adhesive. Cover the foam and seat box with upholstery batting, then fabric. Secure to the underside of the box using staples.

Step 5

Step 6

Cut the remaining pieces for the back frame and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the back rest. It will bend slightly over the curve. Secure using glue and 1-1/4" brad nails. Position the 1" foam using spray adhesive. Cover the back rest, sides, and top of the back frame with upholstery batting and fabric. Staple to the inside of the frame.

Step 8

Position the seat box on the frame and secure using 2-1/2" pocket hole screws drilled through the upper edges of the frame.

Step 9

Position the back frame and clamp in place. Drill two holes (for the carrieage bolts) through the lower stretcher on the back frame into the seat box, as well as through the bottom piece of the back frame into the chair frame. Insert the bolts using a washer on each side of the pieces and tighten with a socket wrench. Cut a piece of the fabric to cover the exposed area of the back and secure in place using upholstery tacks.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Ana White

Fri, 01/11/2013 - 18:31

Thank you so much for hacking and posting! These projects (upholstery) take much longer to make (thank you!) and I'm so glad you just went for it! The chairs are beautiful, love your fabric, and they look really nice and comfy! Ana

designsbystudioc

Sat, 01/12/2013 - 10:43

It is absolutely comfortable... especially if high-density foam is used! The seat is wide enough for me to sit on it cross-legged and I really like it!

redhead_61

Mon, 01/14/2013 - 15:47

This is awesome. I have been really annoyed lately with the recliner my husband loves that takes up WAY too much space in my tiny living room. I have been wanting to build a chair for a while now.

How do you feel about the stability of the back on this? Do you feel any give when sitting in it. I have kids and would hate to do the work for it not to hold up! I so want to build this!

In reply to by redhead_61

designsbystudioc

Tue, 01/15/2013 - 19:52

It seems perfectly stable to me! I used carriage bolts in two places just for that reason - so it won't wobble! I have kids also (teenagers) and they use it more than I get to! Hope this helps!

CChe2001

Tue, 01/29/2013 - 06:43

Hi! I'm a college kid moving into a new unfurnished apartment, and could use an alternative to expensive furniture so this site is great. I have a tiny vehicle so garage sale is even difficult for me. I love this chair, but have absolutely no tools. I have allocated $150 for just tools, what are the essentials/must-need-tools that I need to have in order to start building? I would really appreciate a list, if possible, and I might be able to purchase tools second-handed. Please and thank you!

In reply to by CChe2001

redhead_61

Tue, 01/29/2013 - 11:06

Go up to the top of the webpage and on the left hand side, the second little design bullet says GETTING STARTED. Ana talks about tools and advice. I would definitely look at second hand tools. People get rid of perfectly nice shop set ups all the time. Most people on here use a Kreg jig which is an amazing tool. Also remember that if you are near a Home Depot or Lowes they will can cut a lot for you. Good luck.

CChe2001

Tue, 01/29/2013 - 14:10

Thank you! I completely forgot about Home Depot and Lowe's. I appreciate the suggestions, the last time I did anything with saw was making a birdhouse ten years ago in middle school so I'm a little bit nervous about getting started. But furniture is really expensive and the nearby Ikea is about 5 hour drive from me. Thanks again!

In reply to by CChe2001

designsbystudioc

Tue, 01/29/2013 - 11:08

Hello! If you're just starting out, a drill can be purchased very inexpensively. I bought a Black & Decker at Walmart (for about $50) and was really pleased with it. Another great tool would be the Kreg Jig Mini (I think they are about $25-30). You will love it! I also have a circular saw that I also bought at Walmart for $30... I've had it for about six years and used the heck out of it! I did ditch the blade first thing and bought a better one. Then, a jigsaw can also be purchased inexpensively. The one I have is also a B & D, and I've used the heck out of it also. Check Amazon, Craig's List, eBay, and Walmart. You may still have money left over! Hope this helps and good luck... You'll be addicted in no time!

CChe2001

Tue, 01/29/2013 - 14:12

Thanks for the starter list! I will check out these places and craig's list as well. Should I get a sander as well while I'm looking for the saws and drill?

Bbethb79

Fri, 02/08/2013 - 18:01

Hello! I'm new to this site and loving everything I see. I am also fairly new to building, although I am my father's daughter and have his love for woodworking running through my veins!! I am currently trying to redo my home and have set a personal goal to do as much work as I can myself and other than the cost of a good quality sofa, do as cheaply as I can do. Aprox how much did this chair cost you to make? Also, how many yards of fabric did you use? I understand that fabric can get expensive as I have reupholstered one chair already. I would love to actually build this chair versus buying and reupholstering the next.

Thanks in advance for your help!
Beth

In reply to by Bbethb79

designsbystudioc

Tue, 02/12/2013 - 14:01

Hello! I think I spent less than $50 to build the chair. I used a little less than 3 yards of fabric and I usually buy mine through fabricguru.com. Their fabric is awesome and extremely inexpensive. Hope this helps! Happy Building!

crystals

Thu, 12/19/2013 - 07:55

Is it essential to use a compound miter saw here? Could I measure the angles by hand and cut them? I'm totally new to building, but it seems as though the angles here are simple, unless I'm not understanding the directions properly. Thanks!

AdkinsMom

Mon, 02/16/2015 - 11:06

What size carriage bolts and fender washers are needed for this project? I went to Home Depot with the info provided in the description but there are several sizes available.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!