Face Frame Base Kitchen Cabinet Carcass

Difficulty
Intermediate
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How to build your own kitchen cabinet base plans from ana-white.com

Hello DIY Friends!

Today we have such a very special post for you.   

My dear friend Brooke from Killer b. Designs is building a new house, and they are DIYing much of it themselves.  Brooke is already an amazing builder, and when it came time to tackle the kitchen, she decided to DIY the kitchen cabinets!

Yep, It's all DIY!

Right down to the bright red island custom fit for a microwave!

And the paper towel holder built right into the kitchen design!

Amazed already?

There are tons tons tons more pictures and details on Brooke's kitchen, but it would be unfair to you to not go visit Brooke and read from her all about her DIY kitchen.

From Brooke:

Handbuilt Vintage Country Kitchen

Customizing 21" Drawer and Paper Towel Cabinets

Customizing 24" Open Cabinets

Customizing 30" Bases

Tips and Tricks

Must reads if you are even considering redoing your kitchen or any cabinetry in your home!

Why not save hundreds (if not thousands) of dollars, build your cabinets with PureBond Formaldehyde-free 3/4" thick plywood, and get EXACTLY what you want? 

Thank you so much Brooke for sharing your DIY kitchen with us today!

And OF COURSE we've got you covered with the plans as well if you want to build your own kitchen cabinets.  In today's plan, I'll show you how to make a base cabinet carcass.  You can customize the width to any width you like, but I recommend staying under 36" to avoid having saggy shelves or having to reinforce the countertop for support.  We'll get into specific drawer posts and door options later on.  Read on!

NOTE: I do work with (and love) the folks at PureBond Plywood, but this here post is not sponsored by them.

Dimensions
Can be customized to any width - standard height is 34 1/2"

Preparation

Shopping List

3/4" cabinet plywood (PureBond shown) ripped into 22 1/2" widths
1x4 boards (can be pine) for bottom supports and top supports
1x2 boards for face frames in wood species matching cabinet plywood
1/4" plywood for backs if desired and also can be used to finish off exposed kitchen cabinet ends and ripped into strips to finish off toekick after cabinet installation
1 1/4" pocket hole screws

Cut List
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Rip plywood into 22 1/2” wide strips. Save the leftover scrap piece, you can use it as a support board in step 3, or use it to make corner bracing.

For each base cabinet, you will need two sides. Cross cut the 22 1/2” strips down to 34 1/2”. Notch out toekick with jigsaw.

NOTE: If you wish to attach face frames with pocket holes, drill 3/4” pocket holes on inside front edges of the sides.

Step 2

Cut shelves from 22 1/2” wide strips. You will need at minimum a bottom shelf. You can cut additional shelves as well. For all fixed shelves, drill 3/4” pocket holes on 22 1/2” long sides and attach to sides with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws. Note that your carcass is 1/2” less in overall width than your desired finished cabinet dimensions.

NOTE: for face frames attached with pocket holes, also drill 3/4” PHs facing forward for attaching face frames in later steps on underside of bottom shelf.

Step 3

You can use the scrap plywood strips here. This just helps you square up your cabinet and gives you something to attach countertop plywood to. Place 3/4” pocket holes and 1 1/4” pocket hole screws to top - they will get covered in later steps.

NOTE: For attaching face frame with pocket holes, also drill 3/4” pocket holes facing forward on top of front support.

Step 4

You can again use scrap plywood here. Also attach to top support. You will use this board to attach base cabinet to wall, and it also helps square up the back of the cabinet.

A back can be attached, but it may be easier to wait to attach the backs until after you install drawers or shelves.

Step 5

Step 6

Build face frames first with pocket holes and glue. If you have trouble with wood splitting, try setting pocket holes for 1/2” stock and using 1” pocket hole screws. 

Note that your face frames are 1/2” wider than the carcass, or the desired with of your cabinet. This gives you some wiggle room when you install the cabinets to get your face frames to line up perfectly level. For end cabinets, you can also finish off ends with 1/4” plywood if desired (ie if you were using Melamine for carcasses and Maple for face frames and doors, you would finish off ends and toe kick with maple hardwood plywood to hide all Melamine)

 I love how Brooke finished off her kitchen island ends with beadboard.

Step 7

To give you an idea of the placement of face frame boards for drawers/doors here is the diagram I sent Brooke.

Step 8

And then here is the diagram I sent Brooke for the door sizes. You'll want a finished reveal gap of 1/2" between everything for full overaly doors/drawers, so between cabinets, that's 1/4" per cabinet, but between doors/drawers on the same cabinet it's 1/2" gap.

I'll get into this more when we do plans for drawers and doors and accessories and of course wall cabinets.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Quintin79

Tue, 02/12/2013 - 09:02

Yes you can, edge finishing depends on building material. Solid wood nothing extra required. Plywood/melamine will need edgebanding applied, which is extremely simple. Buy a cheap clothes iron or use an old one (don't reuse to iron clothes after) it can get messy on iron. Iron on matching edgebanding available at the big boxstores. Note it is easier if you buy it a little wider than you need because you will need to trim either way. The trimming may be done multiple ways, the least precise way is using an exacto knife/utility knife (works well for melamine i wouldn't try it with plywood though. I saw a little handheld trimmer in both double edge and single edge for at most 10$ and thats Canadian price. I would suggest this method. Then if you own a router you can use a flush trim bit. Good luck on your project.

patrickhosey

Sat, 02/02/2013 - 19:22

What's up with this post only having 2 comments? This is awesome. Great job

tracysmith

Tue, 02/12/2013 - 08:30

This is my opinion solely, but, the most recent version of base cabs are what is considered industry standard. I say that because when we were building our house, I looked at tons of cabinets and they are not built with 2 x 4 bases, they are built just like the most recent plans. However, if you are going to add a lot of weight to the top of the cab, it might be wise to beef up the base. Most cabinets are just fine with out the 2 x 4 base and they can hold up granite counter tops.

tracysmith

Sat, 02/23/2013 - 23:03

Also, a person building these base cabinets should know that the terminology for the rails and stiles is correct, but their locations aren't. I'm building three base cabinets for my laundry room currently and when building the face frames for the cabinets, I noticed that what is labeled rails should be the stiles and the stiles should be the rails and the measurements for those should be adjusted. Stiles should be 31" for all and the rails should fit inside the stiles.

To see what I mean, check this out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frame_and_panel

diyninja

Sun, 11/16/2014 - 20:33

I agree.  I love this site, but some of their plans, while they mean well, can lead you down the wrong path.  These cabinets are a good example.  The terms are mixed up, not a big deal.  But so are the dimensions, which can be a big deal.  You ALWAYS want the vertical (stiles) to go the *entire height* of the base cabinet!  You'd never want the horizontal (rails) to go the entire width.  Why?  Well think about how they are going to mate up to each other for a moment.  You want only one joining point between your cabinets, a vertical line between only two pieces of wood (the stiles).  If you do as these plans suggest, you'll end up with 4 pieces of wood meeting in the same spot, which will almost certainly not align properly when installed.  This will make your cabinets look crooked.  Again, not trying to be harsh, just constructively critical.  It was these plans that got me to great start.  However I quickly noticed the issue when I did exactly as these plans suggested.  I wasted some wood as a result!  I had to go remake all my stiles 31" and then chop down the two longer rails of each base to match the center rail width.  Now all is well.

I love how you guys make your plans in sketchup to illustrate.  Would you consider fixing this "design flaw" and updating this post?  This is a very helpful post otherwise.

Oxwilder

Thu, 06/13/2013 - 09:56

Love these plans, very simple and attractive results. The cut list diagram has a couple labels mixed up. Stiles go up and down (so they should measure 28" for any width cabinet), and rails go across, as in a rail fence (so they should be full cabinet-width). I suppose it's also worth noting that a 28" height assumes the face frames are made out of 1x2 stock measuring 3/4" by 1 1/2".

Keep up the great work!

EDIT: Just realized another commenter already caught that. Never mind.

watrfall86

Tue, 12/23/2014 - 16:27

I LOVE that. We're looking at buying for the first time, and I'm trying to brainstorm ways to expand both counter and cabinet space without redoing a whole kitchen, so doing a stainless steel top intrigues me.

Tyler88

Tue, 07/07/2015 - 22:40

Great transformations! I would love to do this DIY. if you could share a video on this, it could have been better. We home renovated a few months back and got are custom shelves and closets from Space age ( gtaclosets.com ) of Toronto. Had I read this blog before that Ana , I would have given a try myself! Thanks for sharing this lovely blog!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!