Happier Homemaker Farmhouse Table

easy to build farm table
Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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Free plans to make a farmhouse table with just a drill, saw and countersink bit! No pocket holes required! Step by step plans from ana-white.com

Why This Table Was Built

I collaborated with The Happier Homemaker, Melissa and her family use the table for their outdoor space.  

Melissa and her husband were kind enough to let us share plans with you - the plans follow.  But please take a second to stop over and read through their building post here for lots more pictures and more details on the hardware.

 

More Photos and Details

I love how they simplified the table by placing the aprons to the outside, which also removes the need for a pocket hole jig, but made up for the simplicity with the hardware.

 

Leg Room Concerns

One thing to consider, is with the 2x top and the 2x4 aprons (supports under the tabletop) leg room may be tight for taller guests.  Do consider a 1x top or 2x3 aprons if building for taller users.

Dimensions
farmhouse table dimensions
Dimensions shown above. NOTE Plan base is 6" wider than shown in pictures.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long (cut longest boards first to conserve lumber)
  • 3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 5 - 2x8 @ 6 feet long
  • 2 1/2" exterior star bit screws (Can use interior screws for interior projects)
  • Exterior Wood Glue (again, can use interior wood glue for interior use)
  • 2 1/2" pocket hole screws are optional if you have a pocket hole jig
  • 2" brad nails (galvanized for exterior) 
Cut List
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 24 1/4" (End Stretchers)
  • 8 - 2x4 @ 28 1/2" (Legs)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 30 1/4" (End Aprons)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 69" (Side Aprons)
  • 7 - 2x2 @ 30 1/4" (Tabletop Supports)
  • 5 - 2x8 @ 72" (Tabletop Boards)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

 

For long term durability and more professional results, I recommend using a pocket hole joinery system for wood joints.  Here is a video with tips for using a pocket hole jig:

Instructions

Step 1

Start by attaching the shortest 2x4s together. This is where the nailer would come in handy because nails are so tiny and difficult to see/easy to hide. But you can use screws to - just hide on the insides.

Step 2

Now attach with screws and glue to the first set of legs.

Step 3

Then attach the second set of legs to the outsides.

Step 4

Attach short aprons on top on the outsides of the legs sets.

NOTE: Pocket hole users will want to drill 1 1/2" pocket holes facing upward on insides of aprons to attach tabletop in later steps.

Step 5

Step 6

Next, Add the 2x2 under tabletop supports. These will help you place the tabletop boards really close together.

NOTE: If you have a pocket hole jig, you can just build your tabletop as one piece, and then attach to aprons.

Step 7

Lay the boards down, and the tabletop on top. Start at the middle and work your way outward, minimizing gaps between the boards as you screw down from underside.

For exterior use, consider a 1/4" gap between boards for water drainage.

You may also wish to attach from top into end aprons in pattern.

Step 8

Add hardware to base - check out the Happier Homemaker for more details on how they did that.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Chellebebuilding

Tue, 04/23/2013 - 17:36

Simply gorgeous. The robust look is great for the outdoors. I may have to make one for the summer. Congrats Melissa & Hubby.

jojabis

Thu, 04/25/2013 - 17:53

would you have to use a stretcher?? I'm just wondering since the legs seem so beefy.

RobH2020

Fri, 08/21/2020 - 03:11

Depends what you mean by too heavy. It would be pretty heavy, but two average men should be able to move it short distances.

Also depends on the wood you use. If you get mahogany it's going to be different to pine.

RobH2020

Fri, 08/21/2020 - 03:10

Thanks for these plans!! They were so incredibly helpful.

I've just finished making my own version, changing the dimensions slightly. Was 1200mm long in the end (too short in the end, should've been 1.5m but I messed up with the lumber delivery and didn't want to change it) and 820mm wide (4 x 200m boards, with 5mm gap between).

Would post a photo but not sure how!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!