Fancy Closet Tower

diy closet tower
Difficulty
Intermediate
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This beautiful closet tower is like a piece of furniture in the closet.  Simply add closet rods to complete the closet.  We love that this tower sits on the floor for easy installation.  Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com

diy closet tower
diy closet tower
diy closet tower
diy closet tower
diy closet tower

How I Built this Closet Tower

First, I measured the closet.

Then I sketched out a basic closet design.

 

I decided to build a tower as the main structure of the shelving. The plans for this tower are below.

I ripped 3/4" plywood down into strips 15-3/4" wide on the table saw.  

Then I cross cut the ripped pieces to get the cuts I needed.

Once all the pieces were cut, I used my Kreg Jig to build the basic box and face frame,

I then added trim to the carcass with a 1-1/4" brad nailer.

Here's the basic carcass done.

For finishing, I applied wood filler and then sanded everything with medium grit sandpaper.

  

 

And she's ready for paint!

After painting, I drilled shelf pin holes and installed shelves.

 

 

 

Adding Rods and Shelves

On either side of the tower, I wanted to add some shelving and hanging rods.

  

After placing the tower in it's final home and securing to the wall, I measured the length of shelving I'd need and cut it and painted it.  I drill 3/4" pocket holes on the ends and used it to attach to the tower at the top.

On the open end I used L brackets.  

On all the studs in the walls, I attached the shelf using L brackets underneath.

Because the front edges of the shelves are raw plywood, I added trim to make it look nicer, and also add some strength to the shelf.

I just nailed on with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Here's the shelves done, don't they look nice?

Now for the closet rods -

These pole sockets were about $1 a set, so I opted to use them.  It's just a matter of finding where you want the closet rod to be centered, and attaching - here I attached the pole sockets first to wall cleats,

And then attached the wall cleats to studs in the wall.

The opposite cleat is just attached directly to the tower,

And then I cut the closet rods to fit and hung them in place.

 

On the far side, I only left a couple feet for hanging longer dresses.

 

 

 

Dimensions
fancy closet tower diy plans
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 - full sheet 3/4" plywood cut into three strips 15-3/4" wide and 8 feet long (you'll need more for additional shelving - this will only cover the tower)
  • 1 - full sheet of 1/4" plywood (you won't need this if you do fixed shelves, but if all of your shelves are adjustable like mine, you will need the back for support)
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long (I used poplar)
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 2 feet long (I used pine for my header)
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 3/4" x 3/4" inside corner moudling for trimming out header (optional)
  • about 6 feet of base moulding
  • 1-1/4" pocket hole screws (recommended) or 2" self tapping wood screws
  • 1-1/4" brad nails for attaching face frame
  • 3/4" nails for attaching back
  • wood glue
  • Shelf pins
  • Plywood Edge banding and an iron
Cut List

MAIN CARCASS 

  • 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 15 3/4" x 72" (sides)
  • 6 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 22-1/2" (Shelves**, top and bottom)
  • 1 - 1/4" plywood @ 24" x 72" (back)

FACE FRAME

  • 1 - 1x2 @ 24"
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 71 1/4"
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 21"
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 21"

BASE - Optional

  • 4 - 2x2 @ height of baseboard
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 21"
  • 2 - 2x2 @ outside depth of tower MINUS baseboard depth baseboard trim cut to fit

**For shelves that are adjustable with shelf pins (as mine are) you may need to trim the shelves down by 1/4" in width and depth to allow for edge banding and shelf pin spacing)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Start by building the basic box - I used my Kreg Jig with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, placing pocket holes on the outsides (top and bottom of top and bottom).

Step 2

I used a shelf pin jig to drill shelf pin holes for adjustable shelves. If you do this, you will need to trim your shelves down so they fit the shelf pins (for my shelf pins this ended up being 1/4" in overall width) and also trimmed off 1/4" to allow for edge banding and easy shelf placement from the overall depth of the shelf.

For fixed shelves, the shelves can be placed at any height. You will still need to do something to finish off the front plywood edges. For a painted finish, you can apply wood filler to the front plywood edge, sand, and paint. For a stained finish, edge banding is recommended (although I've seen lots of stained plywood edges on modern furniture an it's really works too!). Another option is to integrate 1x2s into the face frame that will cover the front plywood edges.

Step 3

If you don't do fixed shelves, you will need a back to keep the tower from splaying out in the center. I attached my back with nails and glue.

Step 4

The face frame really helps make the front look nice and finish out the front plywood edges. I built my face frame first with pocket holes, and then attached the whole thing to the front of the tower with glue and finish nails.

Step 5

Step 6

Then I trimmed out the base of the tower in matching baseboard to the closet baseboard, mitering corners and using a finish nailer and glue to attach to the 2x2 base.

I also added the 3/4" x 3/4" inside corner moudling to the top header and cut the top header out with a jigsaw to add detail - but this is all just for decoration - not sturctural.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Lady Goats

Tue, 11/19/2013 - 12:55

I would totally understand you taking a break between houses (uh, I take a break between cuts), but I'm giddy that you didn't. I love this! Thanks for sharing!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!