Frequently Asked Questions
Wood Questions
What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!
Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.
What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.
What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.
Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.
Cutting Questions
Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.
How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.
Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.
Joinery Questions
What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.
Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.
How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.
Finishing Questions
Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.
What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.
How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.
Plan Questions
Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.
Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.
Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.
General Questions
What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.
Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.
What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!
What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.
I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.
Care & Maintenance
How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.
How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.
How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.
Want to Build with Confidence?
Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.
Still Have Questions?
Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!
Comments
apowers313
Sun, 11/24/2013 - 11:43
Attaching 4x4s
The instructions mention that there are many ways to attach 4x4s. Since I don't want to spend $50 on the Kreg Jig HD, what are some of the other options?
apowers313
Mon, 12/16/2013 - 20:57
Use 4" screws
Replying to my own post here...
I experimented with using #10 and #14 screws with a normal Kreg pocket-hole, but that didn't work so well. Using 2 1/2" pocket hole screws with a 1 1/2" pocket hole didn't come out of the center of a 4x4 (for obvious reasons), so it didn't seem very sturdy.
I ended up using 4" long 1/4" wide concrete screws and going into the ends of the wood rather than creating pocket-hole screws. (I'll post some pictures if I can figure out how). The end result ended up being very sturdy and definitely 3-year-old-proof.
jschroed5186
Thu, 01/02/2014 - 06:38
Pictures?
Hi Apowers313,
Is there any way you could email me? I would like to get some more info on how you did this. Thank you for your help!!
My email is [email protected]
jschroed5186
Thu, 01/02/2014 - 06:38
Pictures?
Hi Apowers313,
Is there any way you could email me? I would like to get some more info on how you did this. Thank you for your help!!
My email is [email protected]
Nickm0501
Sun, 09/06/2015 - 05:09
Not using the Kreg Jig
I had similar concerns to yours,not wanting to spend money for the Kreg Jig, espcially since I didn't really understand how it works. I've built a couple projects from this site, a coffee table and a bed frame, without using it. In the past I simply improvised how to join the pieces, usually using longer 4 1/2" screws.
For this project I decided to invest in the Kreg Jig and am really glad that I did! It allows you to screw into wood at a consistent angle and join pieces using only 2 1/2 inch wood screws. The joined pieces are MUCH more secure, are completely hidden from view, it saves time, and is easier to do. I can't imagine doing this project without the Kreg Jig. Without it, the finished product would not be nearly as professional looking. Having all of the screws hidden really enhances the aethestics of the project.
Although you could figure out how to make this without it, for the enhanced quality of final product, I would strongly suggest investing in the Kreg Jig. I am surprised I hadn't heard of people using it before now. It will probably inspire you, like it did us, to build even more projects!
apowers313
Mon, 12/16/2013 - 21:03
Do step #2 LAST
Note that in step #4, when attaching the top with the pocket-hole screws, the angle that you need to get your drill to drive the pocket hole screws requires that the back of your drill be exactly where the bottom stretcher is that was put in during step #2. I had to take out the bottom stretcher from step #2 in order to drive the final pocket-hole screws in, so I would recommend saving yourself the hassle and just doing step #2 last.
Also note that creating the top uses the same method as the pocket-hole farmhouse table (two 2x8s pocket-holed through the sides to form the top of the bench). It wasn't specified in the design, so it might be a bit daunting if you haven't read through the farmhouse table design.
apowers313
Thu, 01/02/2014 - 10:06
Breadboard ends aren't sturdy
One last comment on this -- after finishing the bench and giving it a "test sit" before staining it, I found out that the breadboard ends aren't very sturdy. After thinking about it, they are only attached by a handful of pocket hole screws. The 2x10" board only overlaps the supporting 4x4 by about 1.5" (see the diagram in step 4). That means that if you sit on the end of the 2x10 there is quite a bit of leverage on that joint. When I sat on it (I weight 200 lbs), I could feel it move, and I imagine that my bouncy 3 year old would destroy it in a matter of weeks.
I ended up putting a few 4" long 0.25" diameter screws through the top of the breadboard ends into the 4x4 below (and countersinking the heads so that they didn't show). This at least made it so that the breadboard ends didn't move, but only time will tell if they will end up splitting because of the lack of support.
This is a pretty serious design flaw that would make me think twice before building this design again.
tylec
Thu, 06/18/2020 - 23:39
Hello can I see a picture of…
Hello can I see a picture of exactly how you fixed this problem
Canuky
Thu, 01/02/2014 - 16:33
breadboard ends aren't sturdy...
I thought this might be the case in the farmhouse bench I made, so I for once I thought ahead and made the under supports longer, so the bread board ends rest on it more....Just an Idea for future builders, or make your top a bit shorter, so the support is there!
Emilyk222
Mon, 08/18/2014 - 14:56
Untreated 4 X 4s
I just went to buy wood for these benches and found that no stores in my area carry untreated 4x4s, they only carry treated 4x4s. Will this be an issue with staining? I've never used treated wood before and I'm worried about the way it will match with the other untreated wood that I'm using!
In reply to Untreated 4 X 4s by Emilyk222
mharrison
Sat, 11/22/2014 - 04:26
UNTREATED 4 X 4S
I have had the same problem Emilyk222. Our Lowes finally started carrying cedar 4 x 4's. I've googled using treated 4x4s in your house & they DO NOT recommend it, due to the chemicals it is treated with. I have used 2 x 4s screwed together & wood filler to create my own 4 x 4. Like I said though our local Lowes has started carrying cedar 4 x 4s so at least we have some option. Good Luck!
slynneb68
Tue, 11/19/2019 - 09:58
In my area I have a Lowe’s…
In my area I have a Lowe’s and a Home Depot. Lowe’s said they don’t ever carry untreated 4x4’s but Home Depot does, in my area at least.
Beefquimby
Tue, 03/31/2015 - 23:31
Construction ?'s
I followed all of the instructions and have 2 ?'s. First, in the pictures here, the 2x8's used for the bench top stop short in top of the 4x4's so that the breadboard ends can also rest on the 4x4. My 6 foot long 2x8's stick out a tiny bit past the 4x4 underneath them, so if I attach the breadboard ends now, they'll be floating with no support underneath. Should I continue? Or cut the 2x8's shorter so that there's room for the breadboard ends to also rest on the 4x4's? Second, with the long 4x4 attached, I can't fit my drill between it and the 2x4's to drill the screws into the pocket holes and connect the 2x8's (bench top). Did you have to remove the 4x4 to do this? Or did you wait to attach it until the bench top was attached?
Ste hansen
Wed, 05/13/2015 - 21:29
breadboard support
I saw the bread board weakness right away and I put in 2 pieces of 4x4 on each side cut at a 45 degree angle and screwed the supports into the 4x4 cross piece. It's a minor thing but I could just see someone sitting on the breadboard and breaking it off.
elana
Sat, 02/27/2016 - 14:56
kreg HD pulling joint tight
I just used my Kreg HD to build my first truss bench. The kreg pulled half of the 4x4 joint tight, but left the outside face of the 4x4 "loose". The bench can move side to side because of those loose joints. I cannot get the screws any tighter and the joint is flush on the inside of the 4x4. Any advice?
Sara.Christianson
Sun, 11/06/2016 - 11:08
Tall Bench?
Can anyone help me figure out the measurements for a taller bench? I need it to be roughly 23" tall and 40" long. Any helpers? I'm horrible at figuring out things with angled cuts haha
thewoodbuilder
Tue, 05/22/2018 - 05:00
The table plans
What happen to table plans an error comes up now in
mattgcon
Fri, 09/10/2021 - 14:07
A backrest?
I'm going to be building this bench, but my wife wants to know if anyone has built it with a back to it. Has anyone added a backrest to this?