1. Home
  2. Plan Catalog

Wood Seesaw or Teeter Totter

wood teeter totter or seesaw woodworking plans
|save this plan
Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

Make a teeter totter or seesaw for less than $20! You'll just need some 2x framing lumber, a bolt and screws, and our free, easy step by step seesaw plans. 

This project has been built hundreds (if not thousands) of times and beloved by children everywhere.  Build and use at your own risk. 

Collections
No Pocket Hole Plans

Reader submitted photo by  KIMMOPT

 

 

Dimensions
teeter totter or seesaw dimensions
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

2 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long

2 – 2x6 @ 8 feet long

1 – 10” 5/8” bolt with nut and four washers

1 – 1x8 @ 3 feet long

1 – 24” 1” dowel or closet rod

Common Materials
3 inch screws
Elmer's Wood Glue
Cut List

2 – 2x4 @ 96”

2 – 2x6 @ 24” (uprights)

2 – 2x6 @ 36” (long base)

2 – 2x6 @ 24” (short base - both ends cut at 30 degrees off square ends NOT parallel to each other)

2 – 2x6 @ 12” (scrap piece can be shorter than 12” – used for handle)

FROM EACH 2x6 cut one each of the 24”, 36”, 24” and 12” to conserve boards

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Attach long base supports to uprights with lots of screws and glue.

Step 2

Then add the side supports again with lots of screws and glue.

Step 3

Build the seat part by sandwiching the handle supports between 8 foot long 2x4s and attaching with glue and lots of screws. Drill a 5/8" hole in center of 2x4s for the pivot bolt.

Step 4

I used scrap 1x8 boards for the seats, covered in a foam chair pad cut in half and outdoor fabric. I drilled three holes in the uprights with 5/8" bit so the seesaw could be adjustable. The most difficult part of this seesaw was getting the bolt holes lined up. We ended up just making the bolt holes a little larger so the bolts could pass through easier. On the bolt, we put washers on each side of the uprights to protect the finish and for a smoother ride. For the handles, we had extra closet rod dowel, so we just cut to size, and drilled a hole and inserted the rod. We then glued and screwed in place.

 

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type
Toys
Outdoor Projects
Playhouse
Room
Kids and Toys
Style
Children's and Kid's Room Furniture and Toy Plans

Comments

Lady Goats

Thu, 05/03/2012 - 11:54

When I saw the picture of Grace on your header, I was so anxious to see if there were plans for this! OH YAY!!!! Those girls are 1.) just TOO cute, and 2.) SO happy! I seriously need to find a place for this (and TOTALLY agree that the "safe" TV isn't so safe!).

Danielle Z. (not verified)

Thu, 05/03/2012 - 12:32

I love this!!! I'm heading to town tonight to pick up lumber to start a new project and might just grab a little extra to do this too! I am wondering if you had to guess, how big can the kids be until they're too big for this?

I have three boys (9, 7 & 5) and I'd hope they'd all get a little use out of this before they're too big. Not holding you to anything, just wondering what your opinion might be??

You're absolutely right! Laying around watching TV or playing computer games all day (my boys' vice) is a heck of a lot more dangerous than any "dangerous" piece of play equipment!

redhead_61

Thu, 05/03/2012 - 12:51

Ana:
This was totally on my list of things to pitch to you draw up plans for. I don't have enough room in my backyard, but we are opening up the cabin this weekend and it would be perfect there!

I love that it is adjustable. I was going to suggest drilling additional holes on the actual seesaw part so that it can be moved laterally. That way one side is heavier say if my 2 year old and my 4 year old want to go together. That would help offset the weight difference right? I was also thinking you could add a little front and back lip to the seat to make it a little safer? LOVE IT

Legomamaof4

Thu, 05/03/2012 - 14:20

When was the freedom of playing on the Swing set, Teeter totter and marry-go-round so bad? Yeah occasionally you got a bump, bruise and broken bone, but that was the fun of being a KID! You bounced back!

I love this design. Thank you, thank you, and thank you for all of your wonderful plans. Simple things like the dollhouse and outdoor play are bringing back the fun in being a kid again!

I will definitely make this for Papa and Grandma's House for this SUMMER.

dananryan

Thu, 05/03/2012 - 19:31

Oh Ana, where were you when my children were little...what do you think the weight limit is on this wonderful toy? You never sieze to amaze me. Lucky birthday girl!

Darrell from M… (not verified)

Fri, 05/04/2012 - 08:32

Use a piece of pipe (for a bushing) for the 10" X 5/8" bolt to go through to save wearing of the wood as the SeeSaw goes up and down.

Cindy from Indiana (not verified)

Fri, 05/04/2012 - 09:28

Holy smokes, I love this project!

Hmmm, I never thought to search your site for outdoor play equipment before. Now I am going to have to do that for our daughter - she's 5!

And if you don't have other plans for play equipment, then I'm not above begging for some...hint, hint, hint. ;-)

This turned out great - two adorable girls on a great new toy.

Great job!

Aisha_ (not verified)

Fri, 05/04/2012 - 12:08

Thank you! Thank you Ana!! Can't wait to make this for the kids! What type of finish did you use on yours? Should I get cedar if I don't want to stain it that way it will weather nicely outside.

Ana White

Fri, 05/04/2012 - 17:13

Hi everyone! We used regular stud grade lumber for this project. I did not want to use treated because the kids will be touching it. We did not have time to paint, but recommend to the parents to paint and keep up with the paint job. Just like a wood house, as long as the finish is properly applied and maintained, the wood will last through your child's childhood and beyond.

Thank you everyone for your nice comments - I hope you build this project! So fun to see the kids enjoying it!

Alvin Schrock (not verified)

Fri, 05/04/2012 - 19:26

I love the insight from everyone on something as fun as this. I look forward to building it for my kids.

Thanks, Alvin

debandtom25

Sat, 05/05/2012 - 04:13

My daughter saw this and demanded to have one. Okay princess, mommy will get right on it. :)

Leslie in RI (not verified)

Sat, 05/05/2012 - 11:36

Ana, I love this seesaw and was wondering: Have you ever thought of building one for adults? I was watching some crazy HGTV show last night and there was an adult sized seesaw and it was so awesome, so now I want one.

Pretty please?

titewad65no (not verified)

Mon, 05/07/2012 - 08:14

All, I was looking for a plan and found this and it's GREAT. I used 2x6's for everything. I also put an extra 2x6x2 where the bolt goes inbetween the two long 2x6's. Last night i was on one end and a 5, 10 and 10 year old was on the other end. NO problems with stressing it. I'd feel fine with an adult on each end. using 2x6's instead of 2x4's makes it a bit heavy for moving, but is a solid smooth ride. If I were to redo it, i'd make the upright support posts higher (up-to-3 feet) with holes drilled up and down to adjust. That way you'd have 5 year old heights as well as 10 and adult! :) I also added 3" lag bolts in the support area's along with the 3" screws. Hit me up via email if you have more questions on what i did, but it's a great plan and THANK YOU very much. Neighbors have already commited on how good it looks

brad deegan (not verified)

Thu, 12/13/2012 - 00:20

just wondering how high you would make it were you to make it again? I am getting set to build this for my daughter and would love to play on it with her. Also thanks for the tip of using heavier wood to be stronger.

jviamikus

Thu, 05/10/2012 - 03:36

LOVE IT!!!!! I have 2 daughters with birthdays in June and July this is going to be my 4 year olds Gift!!!!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH. I found your blog one day when looking for ideas on ways to make your own storage items. At that time had not used a saw and had a hard time with a drill. I started small with a hand saw and a hammer and nails. My husband and the small family owned hardware store got a kick out of me. My husband saw that this was not just a fase I was going through and I was kind of good at it. He has been teaching me how to do things and has went through his tools and has giving me a buch of things he dose not use any more. I now have a buch of wood working tool and loads of support form my huband. This has brought us closer as well. We were having a lot of trouble when I started this and by us working together amnd him showing me how to do things we have spent more time together and have enjoyed each others company. Thank you so much

hammertime

Thu, 05/10/2012 - 08:09

I am working on this right now, but I think the short bases are supposed to be 2x6. Therefore, I think the cut list should read 2x6 rather than 2x4 for the short bases. I'm a beginner builder, so correct me if I'm mistaken!

Milca (not verified)

Tue, 05/15/2012 - 11:31

Built a playhouse for the kids 3 years ago with little improvements each year. This year I was thinking we needed a seesaw to complement the rest. What perfect timing :) Thank you sooooo much for taking the time to draw up the plans!

jeremiah (not verified)

Wed, 11/21/2012 - 09:11

First off, I love this project and thanks for posting it!

I am using 2x6 for everything.. but when I drill out the hole for the dowel it will not fit into it.. 1inch dowel, 1inch bit..

I dont want too much wiggle, but I was wondering what size bit you used..

Thank you!
Happy Thanksgiving too!

csaksmith

Sat, 01/10/2015 - 13:23

The dimensions under "cuts" for the short base is wrong. It says it is a 2x4 but it should be a 2x6.

Okie89

Thu, 05/21/2015 - 20:28

I needed a seesaw as a prop in a show my wife is producing. This plan went together in nothing flat, mostly with lumber I had lying around the shop. FYI, the trick to getting the 5/8" holes to align is to use a 5/8" dowel to line everything up as you put it together.

Moonlight1968

Fri, 07/24/2015 - 15:57

How did you attach the seat?  I covered it in padding and fabric but do not see a way to attach the seat now.  Thanks! 

lrfreitas.ocean

Mon, 09/13/2021 - 09:14

Just finished building this. My daughter didn't even waited to be properly finished to start playing. She loved it.
For those who don't find same material (we dont have 2x4 or 2x6 and it's hard to find straight boards at hardware store) it's possible to adapt.
I used 2000mm boards in length, 4,5 x 10 cm eucalyptus, four in total. From 2 of it I cut the pieces by reducing them in proportion: 25cm, 50cm, 75cm and 25cm. Didn't waisted anything! Even the scrap pieces from the 30° cuts where used to form a diamond (glue 2 triangles together) and place in-between the long ones, so the 5/8" screw could find another support.

Now it's time to sand, apply router in the edges and paint it.

Thanks for the lovely project!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!