Simple Gray Bathroom Vanity

gray bathroom vanity with white top, modern farmhouse style bathroom
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free bathroom vanity plans features two large cabinet doors, two drawers, and an open storage area under the sink.  We love the simple exterior that is easy to wipe down and keep clean.  This vanity works with a standard off the shelf vanity top.  

The free plans include step by step diagrams, cut list and materials list.

 

This is one of my favorite bathroom vanities I've ever designed and built.  I love it so much because it is great for storage, and the simple clean exterior lines are easy to wipe down and keep clean.

dark grey bathroom vanity plans

 

With the plumbing in the center cavity, you can add towels or baskets in front and around.

For the doors, we used this simple plan.  I attached the hinges with Non-Mortise Hinges -

 

 

Image from Amazon

 

The hinge is designed for inset doors and are super easy to install.  One thing though - with these hinges you must use a clasp or hasp to keep the door closed.

 

We love how this vanity turned out!  It will store towels nicely in the center open shelving (I'm envisioning a large basket for wash cloths and hand towels or guest towels), and less attractive bathroom necessities can be hidden behind the doors.

Of course, always happy to serve you free plans!  Check them out following!

Dimensions
dimensions diagram showing the bathroom vanity
Vanity suitable for 49" x 22" vanity top

Preparation

Shopping List

1 - sheet 3/4" plywood ripped into 20-1/4" wide strips

1 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long

3 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long

1 - 1x6 @ 4 feet long

1 - 1x3 @ 12 feet long (for doors)

1/4 sheet of 1/2" thick plywood (for centers of doors)

9 feet of 1/2" thick x 3-1/2" tall boards (for drawer boxes)

1/4 sheet of 1/4" plywood for drawer bottoms

4 - Non Mortise Hinges

1-1/4" and 1" pocket hole screws

1-1/4" brad nails

knobs and pulls

2 - 16" euro drawer slides

Cut List

CARCASS

2 - 3/4" plywood @ 20-1/4" x 35"

1 - 3/4" plywood @ 20-1/4" x 46-1/2"

2 - 3/4" plywood @ 20-1/4" x 31-1/2"

2 - 3/4" plywood @ 20-1/4" x 12-1/2"

1 - 3/4" plywood @ 20-1/4" x 20"

2 - 1x4 @ 12-1/2"

1 - 1x4 @ 20"

2 - 1x2 @ 20-1/4"

 

FACE FRAME

2 - 1x2 @ 35"

2 - 1x2 @ 45"

2 - 1x2 @ 5-3/4"

2 - 1x2 @ 22-3/4"

1 - 1x4 @ 45"

 

DOORS/DRAWERS

2 - 1x6 @ 5-1/2"

1 - 1x6 @ 18-1/4"

 

DOORS -

22-1/2" x 11-1/2"

 

DOORS - 1/2" THICK BOARDS

4 @ 16"

4 @ 9-3/4"

 

2 - 1/4" plywood @ 10-3/4" x 16"

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Start by building the basic box for the vanity. We used 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 2

We attached the shelves fixed but you could also make them adjustable with shelf pin holes.

TIP: If you are applying edge banding to front, cut this shelf smaller by 1/8" at front.

Step 3

We made the middle shelf adjustable, cutting it down in size. We will have to cut out the center to allow for plumbing.

Step 4

We built the face frame separately with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Then we attached the face frame with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue.

Step 5

Step 6

These are for the drawer slides. Attach with nails and glue.

Step 7

BUILD YOUR DRAWERS TO YOUR OPENINGS AND SLIDES

We built drawers out of 1/2" thick stock using 1/2" pocket holes and 1" pocket hole screws. We attached 1/4' plywood to bottom with finish nails glue.

Step 8

The drawer boxes are installed inset 3/4" to allow for the drawer face.

Step 9

Cut and build our doors/drawer faces to fit your openings. We used this plan for the doors.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Mrsmike

Sun, 06/08/2014 - 08:40

Love the vanity, it's EXACTLY what I've been looking for in our bathroom, but the PDF link is broken. Can it be updated?!

In reply to by shannonroe

MontanaJen

Sun, 08/03/2014 - 07:29

She is actually talking about width here...the board she is referring to can come in various lengths, at home depot they are sold by the linear foot. The board spoken of here is 1/2" thick by 3 1/2" wide (at home depot this is sold as a 1/2 x 4). Then get 9 feet worth, or more if you think you might mess one up :)

leslieormond

Sun, 06/22/2014 - 14:21

...Behr "Intellectual" Gray available at the Home Depot. I recently painted all of our builder grade cabinets this color, then got a sample size of pure black for $2 (I used all latex), mixing 4 parts water to 1 part black to create a very cheap glaze and used a rag to wipe it on --- and then right off. This helped fill the little crannies in the grain and gave a subtle but rich definition. Not necessary to do the black glaze, it turned out great!

Rugby girl87

Sun, 10/11/2015 - 06:21

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated! I am planning to use this plan to redo my parents bathroom vanity. The list mentions plywood. I did some research, but I am not sure which plywood I should get? According to the budget, it was within 50-100$. So is it oak, knotted pine, pine, etc. I am trying to save as much money as possible. As for the 1x2, 1x3, 1x4,1x6, I presume I can use framing wood such as spruce or kiln dried spruce?

Thanks in advance,

Jen

hewi17

Sat, 08/13/2016 - 12:53

My only issue is its too big! I am in the process if ripping apart my half bath and re-doing it, but my bathroom vanity is only 30". Yours is 48". Is there any way you could tell me how to modify the plans to make it become a 30" vanity? Thanks!

 

hewi17

Sat, 08/13/2016 - 12:55

My only issue is its too big! I am in the process if ripping apart my half bath and re-doing it, but my bathroom vanity is only 30". Yours is 48". Is there any way you could tell me how to modify the plans to make it become a 30" vanity? Thanks!

 

jodonnell

Thu, 06/11/2020 - 15:11

Is there a pdf of the plans and cut list for me to download? I seem to be unable to find its location. Thank you!

jburgos

Thu, 03/11/2021 - 09:33

Hi, I’m currently getting ready to remodel our bathroom and would love to make this vanity. My question is on the shopping list, is it one or two sheets of 3/4” plywoood that are needed?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!