21" Base Cabinet Door/Drawer Combo (Momplex White Kitchen)

Difficulty
Intermediate
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21" DIY Kitchen base cabinet plans with full overlay door - Momplex White kitchen cabients.

I'll be the first to admit, I felt super intimidated when we first started working on the Momplex kitchen.

It's a big project for sure, and when you look at a finished kitchen, it can be overwhelming.

But what we did was to just focus on building one cabinet at a time, breaking a big project down into little manageable projects, and that made a huge difference in tackling this giant build.

We recently shared with you the step by step plans for building the 12" base cabinet (far left and hidden by fridge) and the 36" lazy susan pie cut corner base cabinet, so today, I want to share with you plans for the next cabinet in line - a 21" base kitchen cabinet with a door/drawer combo.

This was actually one of the easiest base cabinets tp build in this kitchen, because it's still small enough to be manageable, but not so tiny it's hard to get a drill in tight spots.

We again used PureBond Formaldehyde Free Plywood for the interior, special ordering a prefinished maple plywood (check at your local Home Depot) - so the only finishing we had to do was paint the face frames and doors on this cabinet!!!

That was a huge time saver!!!

We used poplar for the face frames and ordered our doors (more info on that coming soon) through Cabinet Now.

The plans follow for the 21" base cabinet - so check them out!!

XO Ana

IMPORTANT: Please read through these posts before building, as I show you step by step in pictures how we built these cabinets.

Planning and Layout

Base Cabinet Construction

Shelf Edge Banding

Drawer Installation (coming soon)

Base Cabinet Installation (coming soon)

Cabinet Door Installation (coming soon)

Base Cabinet Finishing - Toekick, Trim Etc (coming soon)

IMPORTANT: There are many different kitchen cabinet plans on this site - please make sure you use the same collection of plans for all of your base cabinets.  This plan is for the White Momplex Kitchen - with a plywood rip width of 22-1/4" and a toekick cutout of 4-1/2" x 2-1/2".  

Dimensions

Preparation

Shopping List

3/4" plywood ripped into strips 22 1/4" long (for sides and shelves)
3/4" plywood scrap from ripping sides and shelves (for top supports)
3/4" plywood ripped into strips 5" long (for base supports - use cheaper plywood here)
1x2s for face frames
1/4" plywood (for backs)
1-1/4" pocket hole screws
3/4" finish nails
edge banding for shelves

Cut List

CARCASS
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 22 1/4" x 34 1/2" (side panels)
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 22 1/4" x 19" (bottom shelf)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 5" x 19" (bottom supports)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 3 1/2" (can vary in rip width) x 19" (top supports)
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 32" x 20 1/2" (back)

FACE FRAME
2 - 1x2 @ 27"
2 - 1x2 @ 21"
1 - 1x2 @ 18"

SHELVES
3/4" plywood @ 22" x 18 3/4" (measure and adjust to fit shelf pins)

DOOR/DRAWER FACE for FULL OVERLAY (1-1/4")
5 1/2" x 20 1/2" (drawer face)
22-1/2" x 20-1/2" (door)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Jigsaw
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

First, create the side panels - remember that the two side panels are mirrors of each other.

Step 2

The bottom shelf is attached 5" up from the bottom of the sides. We used 1-1/4" pocket hole screws (drilling pocket holes on the 3/4" setting) - spacing about ever 6-8".

Step 3

Back and front supports are attached to both the sides and the bottom shelf with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

NOTE: Since these pieces of plywood will be hidden under cabinet and behind finished toekick, we opted to use a cheaper plywood than the prefinished stuff here.

Step 4

We cut our top supports from the leftover scrap from ripping plywood down to the side/shelf width (22-1/4"). This ended up being about 3-1/2" wide. Depending on the type of drawer slides you are using (we used Metabox drawer slides that mount to the top of the drawer so not a problem for us) you may wish to place extra support for mounting the drawer slides to the back or a larger back piece.

Step 5

Step 6

We built our face frames seperately on a clean table, clamping each joint. Then we attached the face frame (after painting it) to the front of the cabinet through the pocket holes drilled in the outsides of the sides and the top.

We did have to glue and nail the bottom of the face frame, as it is too tight to fit a drill in there to attach at the base.

Step 7

These cabinets would also work with partial overlay hinges, but we opted for full overlay doors. These are the door and drawer sizes we ordered for full overaly doors. We used 1-1/4" overlay hinges (concealed euro style - more on this later) for hinges.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

JoanneS

Thu, 11/28/2013 - 07:02

I love getting all your details on how to do cabinets the right way! Having that full shelf for the top is a great use of limited cabinet space. I wonder why most ready made cabinets just have that shallow little back shelf for the top? It's really hard to get to, and you can't put much on it.. I like these so much better! Having the door sizes for the full overlay is great too. It's brilliant that you designed these so the drawer face can be done with a 1x6. It saves work not having to rip down boards, and saves tons of $$ when you DIY a drawer front! Thank you for sharing these wonderful plans! I'm saving all of them, because now I want to build new custom cabinets in our house. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family!

Rosa R

Mon, 07/28/2014 - 13:52

I found your site yesterday and my son already is pulling his hair because I want to build so many things from your site. LOL! I want to know if you're going to plan on making pull-out shelves for the kitchen cabinets? They look easy but having plans would help to know what to buy and how to put it together easier. Another project to put on our list. One of our first project is the miter table for the saw!

KenBrown

Mon, 01/15/2018 - 06:02

To hide the holes, say you wanted to leave this cabinet on the end. Use glue and your nail gun, then putty your holes and sand off the excess and paint the cabinet. Trying to putty the Kreg holes or putting inserts in there will cost you more money and be a pain. Just wood glue and some 2" finish nails.

wilsjay

Wed, 10/19/2016 - 06:27

Do you use wood glue on the joints of the prefinished plywood that gets pocket hole screwed together like the bottom of the cabinet?  

hatowek

Thu, 01/04/2018 - 16:47

Hi,

Thanks for all these clear description, it's suprinsigly rare to find clear kitchen cabinet plan on the internet.

If there's another cabinets on both side; 

for the back and front supports (step 2 and 3)

could we use strait screw from the outside (since they will be hidden anyway by the other cabinet) or it's better to use pocket holes?

Thanks

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!