Craftsman Style Playhouse

beautiful cedar playhouse
Difficulty
Intermediate
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This gorgeous playhouse features wide open french doors, a taller ceiling, and beautiful windows.  You'll love the step by step plans and diagrams.  Beautiful reader submitted photos by AerialC

We love this playhouse because it is tall inside, so big kids and Mom's under 6 feet can play too.  

 

We love that the windows add natural light.  

 

We love that both doors open up and it feels so giant in there!

 

And we love how simple this playhouse was to build.  Read on - once you get the four walls built on the ground, you just stand them, tie in with some roof rafters, and put plywood on top.  It really is pretty simple!

PS - The deck plans are here.

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Craftsman Style Playhouse

Dimensions
dimensions for playhouse
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

5 - sheets exterior plywood (we used 3/8" but see notes on roofing plywood below)

8 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long

20 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long

1x3s for doors if desired

2-1/2" pocket hole screws (blue coated exterior ones)

Galvanized nails or screws for attaching plywood

Roofing of choice

Cut List

Listed in steps

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

FRONT WALL

  • 2 – 2x4 @ 63 1/2" (top cut at 30 degrees off square)
  • 2 – 2x4 @ 50” (top cut at 30 degrees off square)
  • 2 – 2x4 @ 59 3/8” (top cut at 30 degrees off square)
  • 4 – 2x4 @ 18 3/4"
  • 2 – 2x4 @ 22 1/4"
  • 1 – 2x4 @ 44 1/2"

WINDOW GRILLS

  • 2 – 2x2 @ 15 1/2"
  • 4 – 2x2 @ 8 5/8”
  • 4 – 2x2 @ 10”
  • 2 – 2x2 @ 18” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square)
  • 1 – 2x2 @ 24 1/4" (top dogeared to 30 degrees off square) - this is the top center piece

The entire front wall was built on the ground with a Kreg Jig set for 1-1/2" stock and using 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

The 2x4 boards are joined together flat (so the wall is 1-1/2" thick before plywood).

Wait until after you build the other walls to use scrap plywood for filling in the blue pieces.

We used 3/8" exterior plywood, just nailed on from back.

Top rafters overhang the outer 2x4s by 6", measured along bottom edge of rafters.

Step 2

ROOF OVERHANG ON UNDERSIDE OF RAFTERS IS 6”

BACK WALL

  • 2 – 2x4 @ 63 1/2” – one end cut at 30 degrees off square
  • 2 – 2x4 @ 50” – one end cut at 30 degrees off square
  • 2 – 2x4 @ 59 3/8” – one end cut at 30 degrees off square
  • 1 – 2x4 @ 62 1/4” – top dogeared to point at 30 degrees off square
  • 1 – 2x4 @ 89” 2 - 3/8" exterior plywood 48" cut to fit - save scraps for the front wall.

We built the back wall again on the ground, using the Kreg Jig again. The blue is 3/8" exterior plywood nailed on to back. Again, 2x4 boards are joined together flat, so wall is 1-1/2" thick before plywood is attached.

Step 3

SIDE WALLS – BUILD 2

  • 12 – 2x2 @ 45”
  • 2 – 1/2" plywood @ 45” x 48”

Build two of the side walls - we used the Kreg Jig here too.

Step 4

Once all the walls were built, we attached the front and back walls to the side walls to create the walls of the playhouse. Then we added rafters to make the roof.

RAFTERS

  • 10 – 2x4 @ 45”

Step 5

Attach roof plywood to top.  

Step 6

DOORS - BUILD TO YOUR OPENINGS.  We recommend leaving generous gaps around the doors to prevent finger pinching. 

  • 4 – 1x3 @ 48”
  • 6 – 1x3 @ 17”
  • 2- ½” plywood @ 22 ¼” x 48”

We built the doors out of 1x3s and added the 3/8" plywood to the back. If your roof plywood is 3/4" thick, you could just use the slabs as doors. Also, later on we ended up trimming 2" off the bottoms of the doors just so they open easy and no toes get scraped underneath the door.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Joy T.

Mon, 05/19/2014 - 13:14

I couldn't find any reference to how much the estimated material costs were... do you know how much was spent to get all the lumber and hardware?

spitzmel

Sat, 07/05/2014 - 13:28

This is totally cute!! Should the 2 end boards be the same dimension? In the graphic it shows the 2 board being different dimensions 46.5" and 50". In the cut list they are both 50". Thanks!!

kfamilie

Sun, 08/09/2015 - 22:19

Hi!  We are about to start gathering our supplies to build the playhouse deck and I was wondering how I create those extra support braces pictured on the deck above, which seem to be an addition to the original playhouse deck plans.  First time builder here!  Thank you!

dogmelissa

Sat, 08/15/2015 - 07:31

Help! I want to build this with a longer deck, so there's some deck beside the playhouse. The total length of the platform will be 10' long. In the exact orientation shown, the extra 2' will be to the left end of the house/platform. Can I run the joists in that 10' direction, cantilievered 2' over a dropped beam? Will I need to double the end joist on the other end? Are 2x6 joists still enough? Thanks for the help!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!