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Splayed Leg X Bench

vintage wood bench
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Difficulty
Intermediate
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We love this cute bench!  The splayed legs are extra sturdy, and the size is just perfect for moving around the home, to use as you need.  It works as a nightstand, seating, or an entryway or bath bench.

You can easily alter the length by just increasing the aprons and top sizes.

Our free step by step plans include lots of diagrams, shopping list and cut list.

 

 

 

Dimensions
small vintage bench plans
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 – 1×4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 – 1×12 @ 30″ long
  • 2″ and 2 1/2″ screws or pocket hole screws
  • Glue, wood filler, 120 grit sandpaper and finishing supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2×2 @ 17 1/4″, end cut parallel to each other at a 5 degree angle off square and a 5 degree bevel
  • 2 – 1×3 @ 7″ (both ends cut 5 degrees off square, NOT parallel to each other, short point to short point)
  • 2 – 1×3 @ 9 1/4″ (Both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, NOT parallel to each other, short point to short point)
  • 2 – 1×3 @ 24″ (both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, NOT parallel to each other, short point to short point)
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 48″ (approximate, just cut your 1×2 in half)
  • 1 – 1×12 @ 30″ (Top)

This list has been updated per reader comments.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the Legs

Just like yesterday’s Simple Stool Plan, you will need to cut your legs at a double bevel. I highly recommend a compound miter saw set at 5 degrees angle (this would be like rotating your saw so that it makes a pizza shaped cut) and a five degree bevel (this would be like cutting carrots, with the knife blade cutting at an angle away from your hand as you cut diagonal strips) at the same time. The legs are the ONLY pieces that need to be cut at a double bevel. The legs need to be cut at 5 degrees off square (angle) and a 5 degree bevel, 17 1/4″ to 17 1/4″, with the ends parallel to each other (so you would make your first cut, slide your board down 17 1/4″ and make a second cut to have your first leg. Then simply slide your board down and make a third cut to have two legs. Then slide the board again and so on until all four legs are cut. Line your legs us as shown above, and mark the inside corner. This is very important, as with such a slight angle, it will be easy (I’ve done it many times) to get confused as to what direction your legs should be placed at.

Step 2

End Apron and Base

Okay, start by marking the placement of the end boards as shown above. Predrill your holes (I used pocket holes, but you could use countersunk screws and glue). Center the boards on the legs and attach. The boards should be parallel to the ground, not in line with the legs. The top is flush with the top. You will need to make two of these. Remember the placement of the mark on the top of the leg. End pieces are cut at 5 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel to each other, measurement given is short point to short point.

Step 3

Side Aprons

Attach the side aprons to the ends as shown above, same as above. The top aprons are cut at 5 degrees of square, ends NOT parallel to each other, measurement given is short point to short point.

Step 4

Cutting Cross Supports

I wanted to do this step so that you could make your bench longer without trouble. And also, I understand that if you just slightly moved your aprons in or out, it would change your measurements and angles for the cross support. So good old common sense is going to help us out today. Mark the centers of the top and bottom aprons. Flip the bench over. Grab one of the 1x2s cut at 48″ and rest it on the bottom of the top apron and the bottom of the opposite side base board. Use a square or scrap wood piece to mark the angle of the apron and side base board onto the 1×2 as shown in the diagram above. Cut these marks as shown above. Fit, (see fit below) cut again, and fit until you are happy with the fit. You will need to cut two of these. The top and bottom angles ARE NOT THE SAME so you will need to pay attention to the rotation of your cross supports.

Step 5

Step 6

Top

Mark the underside of the top 1 1/2″ in from both ends. Attach to the top (I knew I was painting so I just used 2″ screws through the top) with screws and glue. The side overhangs should be approximately 1/2″ (depends on your 1×12 width).

Project Type
Bench
Room
Kids and Toys
Style
Children's and Kid's Room Furniture and Toy Plans
Rustic Furniture Plans
Farmhouse Furniture

Comments

Michelle (not verified)

Wed, 01/19/2011 - 11:08

I cant wait to make this. I am going to use it as a little table next to a chair I sit in to read. Perfect for a stack of books and lamp. :)
Hope you are doing well....we were talking about Alaska the other day and I was like "I wonder if Ana has a S.A.D lamp?" :)

Eve (not verified)

Wed, 01/19/2011 - 11:13

This is exactly what I needed :D my mom just got a new dining table and I have been looking for benches for her. These bench legs will match her table perfectly! Thanks so much Ana :D

Laura (not verified)

Wed, 01/19/2011 - 11:44

I love this! The red is fabulous! and, I really like your new blog with extra entries from readers who have improved on their talents (thanks to you)! The more ideas here, the better! Besides that, I can't possibly imagine you building everything on here--your house would be FULL of furniture at some point, and you'd be building into the wee hours of every night. This also encourages us, as readers, to design something worthy of posting (so far, they'll all been great).

p.s. Hopefully your nose feels better soon.

Peggy (not verified)

Wed, 01/19/2011 - 12:04

Longtime lurker, first time commenting.... I am always so AMAZED at what I find on this site every day, and I do check it EVERY SINGLE DAY!!! I have been left speechless, gotten cold chills (in a good way!), all kinds of thoughts and feelings from all the beautiful things made here. But this- THIS- bench is the cutest freakin thing I have ever seen!!!!!! I don't know if it's the color, the shape, or the sum of all its parts, but I am truly blown away by the cuteness factor!!! Great job, Ana!!! Keep'em comin, from you and all the others who dare to show they can do it themselves. And just so you know, I'll be building this here bench very soon!!! Thanks again!

Jenny (not verified)

Wed, 01/19/2011 - 12:13

Cute bench! Can't make one now, though, since I'm about to build the ladder for the almost-finished loft bed in my garage. :-) I just had to pipe up and say my son broke my nose when he was about 18 months old. We were playing on my bed and he hit it just right. Just a hairline fracture, but still! That think hurt forever.

Pam the Goatherd (not verified)

Wed, 01/19/2011 - 13:31

Ouch! They really should put info about the full contact kid-stuff in the new parent instruction books. Don't forget to wear a mouth guard along with your helmet!!! I hope your nose heals up soon. One positive about living in Alaska is that you shouldn't have any problems finding ice to put on your nose to get the swelling to go down.

This bench is so adorable and I love, love, love the red!

Joy (not verified)

Wed, 01/19/2011 - 13:33

Hi Anna,

I'm sorry about your nose. I knock a tooth out of my mom's mouth when I was young.

I wonder is there any way to make the leg cuts with a simple miter was?

I love your site; it's the first one I check each morning. I'm in the process of making the tilt out shoe bin. It's going together well so far.

Thank you for all!

Joy

Gwenevere (not verified)

Wed, 01/19/2011 - 13:54

I've had my nose cracked in that exact same way plus some....watch out for the time when you are helping put pants on your little one and to get them on all the way they do a little wiggle and jump (I do it to). The jump usually happens while you still have a grip on the waistband and are leaning over them - Crack!

Sara B (not verified)

Wed, 01/19/2011 - 18:43

Thanks so much for this explanation: "5 degrees angle (this would be like rotating your saw so that it makes a pizza shaped cut) and a five degree bevel (this would be like cutting carrots, with the knife blade cutting at an angle away from your hand as you cut diagonal strips) at the same time." The bevel vs angle thing was confusing me, but no more! :)

SJC (not verified)

Thu, 01/20/2011 - 03:20

I just found a free large frame to make into a giant chalkboard for my daughter and I need a bench to sit under it --- this one is perfect!

Oh, and she gave me a black eye while jumping on the couch in the "family room" at a funeral home about 5 minutes before I was supposed to get up and do the eulogy. So there are worse times to be blindsided by a hard headed toddler!

Lynn in Canada (not verified)

Thu, 01/20/2011 - 04:41

I'm sorry to hear about your nose and I did something similar this past fall but I walked into a 2x4 sticking out at 90 degrees from a fence post (dont' ask, hubbie got the message). It cracked and swelled (and I don't need a bigger nose, thank you) but I was ok in about a week. Hope you will be too - that REALLY REALLY hurts.

Ana and anyone else out there - do you fill all your pocketholes with wood filler? I just got a Kreg jig and I also got the mini-kreg because the holes are so big with the regular size Kreg jig, I was a bit taken aback - takes a lot of wood filler! The mini-Kreg is only good for certain projects and only pan-head screws but it makes such dainty holes - I do prefer them. I must have gone through half my wood filler container filling those pocket-holes - any advice on using wood filler would be appreciated - I never get a clean fill, you can tell there is filler there - is it the brand I'm using? My technique? Even after I paint, you can tell I tried to fill a hole there...

kerry davis (not verified)

Thu, 01/20/2011 - 06:18

Lynn - I use wod filler on my pocket holes too, and you can always tell. I'm super new to this, so would benefit from anyone who has tips to offer you. Maybe it's to fill & sand again? I'm super impatient, so this could be part of my problem....

Tamara Knowles (not verified)

Thu, 01/20/2011 - 07:39

Hey Anna,

Just wanted to say THANKS for all the wonderful plans. I'm currently on my second project and can't wait to start the next, and the next, and the next :) Just thought I'd let you know if you are in need of some sunshine we can help! We live and run a company in the Bahamas for kayaking and sailing expeditions. We have a place you could stay and could show you a good time if you want to come to our little island :) check us out...www.outislandexplorers.com and let me know if you want more info!

Thanks again for all the wonderful projects and encouragement!

Michelle (not verified)

Thu, 01/20/2011 - 14:23

LOVE this bench! It will be mine (shortly after the laundry basket dresser I'm making for a friend!)

My daughter broke my nose about a year ago... it felt like brain freeze without the ice cream, LOL. It's only very slightly crooked. (((Hugs))) to you, mama!

Neala (not verified)

Thu, 01/20/2011 - 19:35

Ow! My daughter did that too, flinging herself around in midst of a tantrum and cracked my nose which gave me a good black eye! Who knew that 2 year olds have such solid little noggins? You're so used to cradling a soft baby head you don't realize how painful and rock-hard they become! Hope it heals soon!

Wendy (not verified)

Sat, 01/22/2011 - 11:44

I decided to make this little bench today. It is my first project and it is so fun!

I just wanted to write and make a little correction in your shopping list - you need 2 2x2's at 8 feet long, not just one. Or probably more like 1 and a half 2x2's. The first 2x2 for the legs (which leaves about 47 inches leftover) and another 2x2 to cut in half and use as cross supports.

Thanks for all your plans - I have a list of all the things I want to make next...

ps - the whole 5 degree angle and 5 degree bevel turned out to not be as hard as I imagined.

Wendy (not verified)

Sat, 01/22/2011 - 11:51

err - a correction to my correction - :)

1x2's not 2x2's

you need 2 1x2's at 8 feet long- one for the side aprons and another for the criss cross. The aprons take up about a half a 1x2 at 8 feet long, but that doesn't leave quite enough for two criss cross's.

Or maybe the error is that the side aprons should be cut from the 1x3's instead of the 1x2's..... which actually makes more sense.... off to cut some 1x3's!

sorry!

Tracy Smith (not verified)

Wed, 01/26/2011 - 16:06

My daughter just asked me to make her a bench for the piano that we inherited from my Grandmother after she passed. This will be a great starter project and help fill a need in our little house. Thanks so much for posting plans, creating this community and giving some inspiration to a mother of three teenagers who is looking to support her family after brain cancer took her husbands livelihood from him. You are so awesome and at 34, I've finally figured out what I want to be when I grow up - Ana White! LOL Seriously I just want to build and create and you've inspired me to do it! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!

Tracy Smith (not verified)

Mon, 02/21/2011 - 18:38

Ya, I got it built tonight... we stain it tomorrow! Such a cute and sturdy bench, however, there is some discrepancy in the wood buy list. If you follow the shopping list, it shows a 1x4x8 but there isn't any cutting instructions in the cut list. There also isn't any 1x2's listed in the shopping list.... So, there need to be some corrections made. We bought the 1x4 but didn't use it at all.

I'm assuming that the shopping list should read as:
1 2x2 @ 8'
1 1x3 @ 8'
1 1x2 @ 8'
1 1X4 @ 8'
1 1X12 @ 30"
Then, in the cut list, the 1x2 @ 24" should actually be the 1x4 @ 24".

We didn't figure this out until we were done building and realized we had a 1x4 that we didn't use. :-) It's cute even without the 1x4. Thanks Ana for the plans and the inspiration, cuz it was a blast to build even with the oops'.

Nichole Hancock (not verified)

Wed, 03/02/2011 - 04:10

We just built two of these great benches. I extended them to 48" long, to fit on the sides of my store bought farmhouse table. They feel super sturdy and should last even with 5 boys on them :). Thanks for the great step by step plans... it made it so easy to do.

Sonya (not verified)

Thu, 03/10/2011 - 17:55

The shopping list and cut list are off somewhere. There's a 1x4 on the shopping list but none listed on the cut list. Also, the long aprons are the 24" pieces should be 1x3's. It wasn't a problem for me since I'm making it with scraps I already have. Thanks for all you do!

ashdent

Thu, 04/14/2011 - 18:29

I made this bench out of cedar and just applied a clear protective finish and it really made the knots and grain pop. It looks FANTASTIC and is very sturdy. Thanks for the plan!

Guest (not verified)

Thu, 05/05/2011 - 12:03

This bench appears sturdy, but in the pictures on the hardwood floor the legs are not all the same length. Also, the reinforcements take up a lot of room underneath. It is a heavy and simple design, but not really that clever.

Sue Yasinsky (not verified)

Fri, 05/27/2011 - 15:56

Wow! I adore this design and am seriously considering it for a new coffee table. After downhsizing, my older heavy coffee table just doesn't work. Of course there are adgustments to be made to create a coffee table. I can't wait to lighten up my family room. Thanks so much for the plans.

Terri Rino

Wed, 12/07/2011 - 11:36

Ana,I am shopping for a drill to use with the Kreg jig we just bought. I noticed in the tutorial video that you used 2 different drills. What is the reason for that, and what drill would you suggest I buy? Thanks, Terri

rgh1948

Thu, 03/01/2012 - 16:36

Terri

You need a high rpm drill for the best pocket hole drilling.
A slow drill will actually overheat the bit and burn the wood. I bought a Dewalt D21002 3/8" 0-2500 rpm from Ace Hardware. The other drill is best to use a drill/driver with
an ajustable clutch so you don't overdrive the Kreg screws in soft woods.
A good source for info is the Kreg jig web site. their forums are very good for info.

Hope this helped.
Bob

rgh1948

Thu, 03/01/2012 - 09:31

how do you keep the end apron horizontal pieces perpendicular
with the ground while centering them on the legs. I am new to building and that's a challenge.
I blogged this question but then I realized you could use the comment area of the project.

Thanks for any help.

Angel Rose

Tue, 04/03/2012 - 12:01

HELP! I am having a heck of a time with the support beams . . . the X. By some miracle I got of them to fit, but I cannot seem to make the right cuts on the other. I go from too long to too short with one ( 1/8th inch cut) I tried it four times. HELP!!

Any further help in making those cuts would be very helpful!

Thanks

Ryn0nTX (not verified)

Sun, 07/08/2012 - 20:19

Hi Ana... (and everyone else).

I just wanted to point something really silly out....but may save another "rookie" from making the same mistake. When you buy a 1" x 4" board....guess what? ...it is only 3/4" x 3 1/2" !!! Really! After I set my Kreg to 1" thick stock! Well that just sucked after shooting screws through the legs. All ROOKIES (like myself)...take note.

Also, I never needed the 2 1/2" screws? What are they for?

Thanks for a great how-to on a cool looking bench.

-Ryan

fusionmom (not verified)

Fri, 07/20/2012 - 00:14

I can't wait to make this bench. The red color is fantastic. The directions look easy enough that even I can do it. I hope so. Maybe my family will believe in me and not think that I am such a

MelanieCS (not verified)

Wed, 11/14/2012 - 13:48

What is the 1x4 for??

hhoward

Fri, 05/10/2013 - 11:53

I think that is why she suggests reading all the instructions first. I didn't, and I bought the 1 x 4. It is not needed, must just be a mistake. I was even able to get by with only (1) 1 x 3 and I made mine a few inches longer. I used the 1 x 4 and additional 1 x 3 to make a food tray to go along with it. The 1 x 4 wasn't long enough to do the bottom for this tray, so I substituted in 4 cuts of 1 x 3 instead.

http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/2012/04/diy-casserole-tray.html

Alexandra Pflug

Sun, 01/13/2013 - 15:36

My husband, father, and I made 8 of these benches in varying lengths for Christmas gifts this year. It was a lot of fun, and once we put jigs in place to keep everything consistent it was a breeze. I made a brag post, but it isn't showing up on my computer. Have fun with this plan. It is simple to follow and makes a beautiful, versatile little bench.

wendykeeler

Mon, 08/05/2013 - 16:54

LOVE this bench! Made a trial run and will post it soon. But I want to make the bench 40" long for a table. Will it be strong enough to hold 2 adults/3 kids? I'm thinking yes, but..... I saw you have a double x bench, but 54" is way too long.
thanks.... [email protected]

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!