36" Sink Base Kitchen Cabinet - Momplex Vanilla Kitchen

Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build your own kitchen from scratch! Free plans by ana-white.com for a standard 36" sink base cabinet

Happy Friday!!!

Thank you all for your positive feedback on the Ram's Kitchen Cabinet Carcass video - between me and you - it really made his day and he's really excited about doing more videos.  Both of us truly enjoy seeing our hard work matter to others - so thank you!

For today's plan, I promised you a more standard kitchen sink base cabinet - a 36" width.  We had to go with the 30" for the Momplex because of the space (went for a bigger hallway so the kitchen got shortened by 6").  I definitely recommend the bigger sink base.

The plans follow - and if you are building and haven't already - check out the Ram's video - below - going through all the steps:

Have a great weekend!

XO Ana + Family

Dimensions
36" sink base - overall 24" with doors - inside dimension is 22-1/4" deep x 34" wide

Preparation

Shopping List

3/4" plywood ripped into strips 22 1/4" long (for sides and shelves)
3/4" plywood scrap from ripping sides and shelves (for top supports)
3/4" plywood ripped into strips 5" long (for base supports - we used cheaper plywood here)
1x2s for face frames
1x3 for center stile
1/4" plywood (for backs)
1-1/4" pocket hole screws
3/4" finish nails

For our cabinets, we used (special order about $70 a sheet for 3/4") and poplar boards for the face frames. The cabinet doors were ordered from Cabinet Now.

Cut List

CARCASS
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 22-1/4" x 34-1/2" (side panels)
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 22-1/4" x 34" (bottom shelf)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 5" x 34" (bottom supports)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 3-1/2" (can vary) x 34" (top supports)
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 32" x 35-1/2" (back)

FACE FRAME
2 - 1x2 @ 27"
2 - 1x2 @ 36"
1 - 1x2 @ 33"
1 - 1x3 @ 21"

SHELVES - optional (unlikely for sink base)
3/4" plywood @ 22" x 27-3/4" (measure and adjust to fit shelf pins/edge banding)

DOOR/DRAWER FACE for FULL OVERLAY (1-1/4")
5 1/2" x 35-1/2" (drawer face) - can be taller
2 - 22-1/2" x 17-1/2" (door)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Jigsaw
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Start by creating your two side panels in mirror.

Step 2

Attach the two bottom supports to the two side panels.

Step 3

Attach bottom shelf to two bottom supports and side panel.

Step 4

Attach remaining side panel to the base.

Step 5

Step 6

Attach back with 3/4" finish nails and glue - back could be optional on a sink base to allow for plumbing, but you should still add some 1/4" plywood to the back at the top and bottom to bring the cabinet out 1/4" to match other cabinets with backs.

Step 7

Build your face frame separately, and then attach the completed face frame to the front of your kitchen cabinet. Sides over extend by 1/4" on each side, top is flush, bottom is flush on sides, with bottom shelf 1/2" set up.

Step 8

We used full overlay doors attached with concealed euro hinges, 1-1/4" overlay for face frame doors. Doors were ordered from Cabinet Now (not sponsored - just great product).

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

thomatuttle

Sat, 01/18/2014 - 10:05

do you have any plans for a sink base that will fit an apron front sink? i'm thinking about redoing my kitchen and doing the cabinetry myself, but i really want an apron front sink.

jimmyvi

Mon, 01/27/2014 - 05:26

This looks fabulous and it really seems as if it could be really easy. I hope that there are some brag posts to go along with it soon because it would be cool to see how other found the building process.

tbotello

Tue, 01/21/2014 - 05:52

Ana, it seems like I remember some time ago that you had a post on making shaker doors but I can't seem to find that post. Is there anyway you can provide that link? Your series on building the momplex kitchen has inspired me to build our cabinets for our house we just broke ground on and I'd even like to tackle building the doors as well. Thank you!

claydowling

Tue, 01/21/2014 - 07:30

I hope everybody thinking about kitchen remodeling will see this video, to see exactly how easy it is to build your own kitchen cabinets. Ana and the RAM are showing how to build your cabinets out of lighter, stronger materials than an pre-made cabinet will be built from. Great stuff, and might be instrumental in convincing my own wife that this is the way to go, since she hates the kitchen layout and I hate the low-quality cabinets the builder used.

foundinhim

Sun, 02/23/2014 - 14:01

Thank you so much for the plans and the video. If the cabinet base is covered on all sides with adjacent cabinets and a counter top, is there a compelling reason to purchase the nicer, birch (?) plywood or can cheaper plywood be used?

foundinhim

Sun, 02/23/2014 - 14:01

Thank you so much for the plans and the video. If the cabinet base is covered on all sides with adjacent cabinets and a counter top, is there a compelling reason to purchase the nicer, birch (?) plywood or can cheaper plywood be used?

Neb1990

Mon, 07/14/2014 - 12:42

My wife and I just completed building an 8 foot base cabinet using these plans. We had the cabinet together and up in one day's time. Since the sides and back of ours can't be seen, we just used plywood. We did build a pine countertop for it and we plan on building the front frame and doors out of pine next weekend. These plans are awesome to go by!

JohnRR

Wed, 12/02/2015 - 08:15

I will give you $50 for a member's site with no ads.  Or at least please remove the autoplay-video ads.

The constant audio downloading is really annoying, especially if I have three or four of your pages open simultaneously.  Chevy/star wars/taco recipes all at once....ugh!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!