How to build a cubby bookshelf. Free easy plans with diagrams, cut list, shopping list and project video.
2 - 1x12 @ 8 feet long
3 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
Optional 2 1/4" base moulding (5 feet)
Optional shelf pins for adjustable shelves
Use either 1 1/4" pocket holes (with Kreg Jig) or 2" countersunk screws (with countersink bit)
Jigsaw is for decorative cuts
Mitersaw is for mitered corners on decorative base moulding
2 - 1x12 @ 31 1/4" (sides)
1 - 1x12 @ 28 1/2" (center divider)
1 - 1x12 @ 30 1/4" (top)
1 - 1x12 @ 28 3/4" (bottom shelf)
2 - 1x12 @ 14" (shelves)
2 - 1x2 @ 30 1/4" (top)
4 - 1x2 @ 30 1/2" (sides)
2 - 1x2 @ 27 1/4" (bottom)
1 - 1x2 @ 27" (back, center - optional)
Mark your boards because it will be very easy to mix up boards on this one!
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Start by building your box. You can either use 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws or 2" countersunk screws and glue.
Shelves can be added fixed or added with shelf pins as done in the video. The side notch outs are optional, and you can actually do this later on as well.
Add back face frame.
And then the front face frame. If your shelves are adjustable, do not nail to shelves.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.