DIY Storage bed with drawers, covered in scrap wood pieces. You can use pallet wood or any scrap wood, or use regular drawer faces for a more refined finish.
You will need to add pallet or scrap wood for the "siding" - drawer faces can also be 1x12s
- 2 full sheets of 3/4" plywood ripped into strips
- 15-3/4" wide (very important that all rips are the exact same width)
- 1 full sheet of 1/4" plywood (rip into strips 15-3/4" wide for drawer bottoms)
- 11 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
- 4 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long (for slats)
- 4 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
- 2 - 1x8 @ 8 feet long (for drawer boxes)*
- 3 - 1x8 @ 10 feet long (for drawer boxes)*
- 6 - 16" Euro Drawer Slides (the white bottom corner mount ones)
- 6 knobs or handles
*Drawer boxes could also be made of plywood ripped into strips 7-3/4" wide (1/2" or 3/4") (could save money and would be more structurally sound and square than pine boards
END BENCH (for building 1 bench)
- 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 58-1/2""
- 3 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 15-3/4"
- 4 - 1x4 @ 28-1/8"
- 2 - 1x2 @ 16-1/2"
- 1 - 1x2 @ 57"
- 1 - 1x4 @ 57"
End Bench Drawers - Cut to fit opening and drawer slides
- 4 - 1x8 @ 15-3/4"
- 4 - 1x8 @ 25-5/8"
- 2 - 1/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 27-1/8"
SIDE BENCHES (for building 2 benches)
- 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 62-1/2""
- 6 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 15-3/4"
- 8 - 1x4 @ 30-1/8"
- 4 - 1x2 @ 16-1/2"
- 2 - 1x2 @ 61"
- 2 - 1x4 @ 61"
Side Bench Drawers - Cut to fit opening and drawer slides
- 8 - 1x8 @ 15-3/4"
- 8 - 1x8 @ 27-5/8"
- 4 - 1/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 29-1/8"
- 4 - 1x4s or 1x3s @ 58-1/2"
- 2 - 1x4s or 1x3s @ 62-1/2"
- 12 - 1x3s @ 26-1/2" (can be any scrap wood or plywood)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
END BENCH (BUILD ONE) - Attach the side panels and middle panel to the top plywood piece. Make sure that center piece is exactly centered (we used the 1x4 pieces from the next step as guides). Attach with pocket holes. We also drilled 3/4" pocket holes facing forward on the end panels (outside) and top panel (on top) for attach the face frame in later steps. Remember that the entire bed gets "sided" so place pocket holes on the outsides.
END BENCH (BUILD ONE) - Tie in the bottoms of the bench with 1x4s. Keep pocket holes on outside for easy attaching and more strength.
END BENCH (BUILD ONE) - Build the face frame separately, then attach the completed face frame to the bench. Insides will be flush on the sides, top will be flush to top, bottom 1x4 boards will match up. Use the pocket holes you drilled in earlier steps to attach at the top and sides. Nail to the bottom 1x4 board with 1-1/4" nails and glue.
END BENCH (BUILD ONE) - Cover the end panel of the bench in wood boards. We used scrap wood but any wood can be used here. Nail and glue on.
Tie in the two side benches with 1x4s or 1x3s (we actually used scrap strips of plywood - anything will work here, these boards are just to keep the two benches lined up. We actually did this in the room after finishing the entire bed in the garage and then carrying all the pieces into the room for final assembly.
The slats will rest on top of boards tied into the backs of the side benches. Consult your mattress for recommendation on slat spacing. We actually burned up lots of random sized scraps for the slat system.
There's alot of drawers, so this is where much of the time and money was spent. We also built our drawers out of 1x10s so the front face would be easy to nail scraps too but that is an added cost. The measurements given are for the perfect build - make sure you measure each and every opening, and build to fit your drawer slides and openings. I actually number each drawer box and custom make to fit each opening.
I build drawers by placing 3/4" pocket holes on outsides of front and back and attach with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The pocket holes then get covered up by the drawer face.
Install drawers inset 3/4" from face frame (or flush with front edge of plywood). To make installing drawers easier, I cut a spacer block and rest the drawer slides on top -
That way I knew all my drawer slides were installed at the same height, and it took alot of measuring and marking out of the build process.
Finally, attach drawer faces to drawer boxes. The drawer slides will have some play, so make sure you attach with the drawer sitting upright (as pictured in the diagram). The openings are sized for 1x12s if you wanted to go that route. Leave about 1/8" gap around all sides of the drawers.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.