Corner and end component for the Simple Modern Outdoor Sectional. Featuring a modern wood slat design.
Yesterday, we looked at the first piece for this Simple Modern Outdoor Sectional. And you loved it. And you loved how easy it would be to build. But it get's even better.
This sectional is actually only made up of two easy to build plans. Yesterday's Armless Sectional, and Today's Corner Sectional.
The white pieces show above are the Armless Sectional Pieces, and the red sections are the corner sectional pieces. Also, you can use the same sewing patterns here for cushions, or purchase box cushions sized a standard 24" x 24" for the seats. Make sure you read the post on the Armless Sectional, I cover more details on connecting the pieces, on adding a back piece to keep your back pillow from falling through, and some links on where to buy DDIY cushions.
Don't forget, with just these two very easy basic plans, there is unlimited configurations you could create to fit any space. You can see a few DDIY configurations here, from West Elm, but I would encourage you to measure your space to build for your needs.
Need 10 Sectional Pieces? Here's my advice, tackle one a day. And then have a sewing party at the end. That's how I'm getting my playhouse done, one wall at a time, between putting kid's down for naps, laundry, cooking, dishes, being Grace's Mom, volunteering for my Mom, posting plans, and responding to your questions and emails. If you can break something into smaller, manageable sections, you can then allocate your time and set daily goals.
I'm sitting here with four kids, wishing I could be out finishing this wall, but the reality is I've got a baby napping and three kids that tend to make lots of noise. You know exactly what I'm talking about. And you also know that our kids, the very reason I am building this playhouse, are the most important project we will ever undertake. So it's okay if this is all I can do for today. I'm just thankful to have found 30 minutes to frame this wall. There's always tomorrow.
6 – 1×4 Board, 8′ Length
3 – 1×4 @ 25 1/4″ (Front Apron AND Seat Supports)
1 – 1×4 @ 26″ (Side Apron)
1 – 1×4 @ 24″ (Side Seat Board)
6 – 1×4 @ 20 1/2″ (Seat Boards)
2 – 1×4 @ 14 1/4″ (Front Legs)
4 – 1×4 @ 28 1/4″ (Back Legs)
2 – 1×4 @ 22 1/2″ (Back, Short Top Apron and Seat End)
2 – 1×4 @ 23 1/4″ (Back, Long Top Apron and Seat End)
1 – 1×4 @ 24″ (Short Top)
1 – 1×4 @ 27 1/2″ (Long Top)
To ensure you are working from the most accurate and up to date plans, work directly off of the blog, and read comments. I do update plans and the version in your Google Reader or email or saved PDF or printout might have been updated, so be sure to check the blog before begining any building. Work on a clean level surface. Predrill and countersink all of your screw holes. Use glue. Check for square after each step. And most importantly, have fun and be safe.
STEP 1: Seat Supports and Aprons
Use 2″ screws and glue to attach your front apron to the seat supports. Then attach the side apron as shown above. You can choose which side you would like the seat support to go on, depending on how you want your seat boards to lay, but the overall dimensions will not be altered.
STEP 2: Seat Boards
If you have a Kreg Jig™ (Kreg Jig™) you can attach all of the seat boards as shown above. Notice how the back is 1/2 offset from the side. The gaps are 1/2″. If you do not have a Kreg Jig™, start by attaching the purple board above (the Seat Side) to the side apron with 2″ screws and glue. The overhang is 3/4″ on both the side and the front. Then attach your seat boards as shown above.
STEP 3: Front Leg
Attach your front legs as shown above. Make sure you ad a screw at the bottom of the leg to keep the legs from splitting apart at the bottom.
STEP 4: Backs
Build your backs with 2″ screws and glue as shown above. The top on the right sits flush with the legs, the top on the left overhangs the back leg by 3 1/2″ as shown above. Make sure you join the two back pieces by screwing through the top of the back board into the top edge of the back apron.