Dining Cart

Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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Rustic, yet industrial dining cart, see more about the project at http://decorandthedog.net/decorandthedog/2014/1/19/diy-dining-cart-tuto…

Dimensions
48" Wide, 34 1/4" Tall, 14" Deep

Preparation

Shopping List

8 - 2"x4"x8'

2"x3" - Only need 28", so get the smallest one possible, or rip a 2"x4" down

2 - 3/4" x 6' black iron pipe

4 - black iron end caps

4 - industrial wheels

2 - corner brackets

2 1/2" pocket hold screws

Kreg jig

wood glue

Construction adhesive (we use Loctite Power Grab)

Black spray paint

Small nails or upholstery tacks

Cut List

2"x4"

4 - 30.5" (sides)

6 - 45" (outsides of shelves)

6 - 38" (middles of shelves

6 - 7" (ends of shelves)

2"x3"

4 - 7" (middles of sides)

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Start by building the sides, using pocket holes and glue. Attach the 7" 2x3 to the top and bottom of the 30.5 2x4. I used one hole at the tops of the 2x3's as it will be hidden by the shelves.

Step 2

Next, build the 3 shelves. I attached the two outside 7" 2x4's to the 45" 2x4 with wood glue and pocket holes on the bottom of the shelf.

Step 3

Using wood glue and pocket holes attach the two 38" middle 2x4's, then attach the other outside 45" board. Repeat for other 2 shelves. If some of the boards are a little uneven, sand with belt sander or use a planer to even.

Step 4

Using pocket hole screws, attach the bottom shelf to the bottom of the 2 sides.

Step 5

Step 6

Finally, attach the top shelf to the top of the sides.

Step 7

Drill holes for the rods in the back, measure up 5" from the bottom and middle shelves, then in 5/8". Drill hole slightly larger than the pipe, the hole for ours was 7/8". When drilling, put a scrap board behind the 2x4's in order to prevent the back side from "exploding" when the bit goes through.

Step 8

Sand any remaining uneven surfaces. Stain or paint and poly. We used Rust-Oleum wood stain in weathered gray.

Step 9

Using a hack saw, cut the black iron pipe so when a cap is placed on one end it will go into the opposite hole about 3/4". Test fit the cut, leaving it in the board, measure the remaining length needed (probably about 1 1/2" or so). Cut that length off of the remaining pipe, making sure to keep the threaded part. I did this in order to keep the threads on both sides so the cap will screw on. There is probably a tool that will put threads on the end of the pipe after it is cut but I don't do that much work with this material so this seemed cheaper than buying a tool only to use it once. Put end cap on short piece. Test fit making adjustments as necessary. Put construction adhesive around the end of the cap and down pipe a bit, and on the longer pipe put adhesive on the end once just before putting it into the opposite hole. Repeat for second shelf. Let glue dry.

Step 10

If you cannot find vintage corner brackets and wheels, use new brackets (inexpensive ones from any hardware store) and beat them up a bit with a hammer. We spray painted ours black. We purchased these wheels and gave them the same treatment.

Attach the corner brackets with nails or tacks to the top front corners. We used upholstery tacks. Note: You will have to spray paint nail or tack heads to match brackets.

Step 11

Attach wheels to bottom of the cart, I placed mine on the outside, with the end of the wheel on the end of the shelf.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!