Fiona's Doll Adirondack Chair

doll adirondack chair
Difficulty
Intermediate
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An Adirondack Chair for 18" Dolls.

It's been an especially busy time for me of late, as I am sure it is for most of you, with the Holidays in full swing.  We also have Grace's birthday right before Christmas. It's always an extra effort to try and not let the Holidays overshadow Grace's special day. So when Fiona emailed me her cut list a few weeks ago for a doll Adirondack chair, I could not have been more thankful that she would give her plans to you - and give me a little bit of a break during these busy weeks before the Holidays.  But I wanted to get some of the larger projects blogged to give you time to build before Christmas, so this one's been promised for a few weeks, and I'm so happy to finally be able to blog this plan!  I'll be posting lots more smaller projects between now and the Holidays, things you can whip out in no time flat. I'm itching to get back to some media walls and storage beds and bigger plans, and have big big plans for the new year.  It's going to be an exciting new year!   . . . But let's get back to small things for now. Isn't Fiona's doll chair just adorable?  Building doll furniture is perhaps the most "fun" I've ever had building.  You don't have to be perfect, the finished project is so cute, doesn't take long, and it's usually quite inexpensive to build.  But the best part is the joy of giving these gifts to children.  Last night, I had a conversation with a friend who grew up on a farm with a mom that was like many of us, handy because she had to be.  And my friend told me about when she was a little girl, her mother made her doll cradles and a cupboard to use as a kitchen.  She's since moved thousands of miles from her mother, but has plans to find those wooden toys her mother built her, and give them to her own children.  The story really struck me as special, and I can only imagine what your children are going to think of these pieces you are building for them.

Dimensions
doll adirondack chair plans
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

1 – 1×3, 8 feet long (whitewood or furring strips should be about $1.50)

2 – 1×2, 8 feet long (whitewood or furring strips should be about $1.00 each)

1 1/4″ screws or nails

wood glue

finishing supplies

Cut List

2 – 1×3 @ 13 1/2″ (Stringers, one end cut in step 1)

1 – 1×3 @ 10″ (Front Apron)

4 – 1×2 @ 10″ (Seat Slats)

5 – 1×2 @ 14″ (Back Slats)

3 – 1×2 @ 8 1/2″ (Back Supports)

2 – 1×3 @ 9″ (Front Legs)

2 – 1×2 @ 9 1/2″ (Arm Supports)

2 – 1×2 @ 9 1/2″ (Arms)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set

Instructions

Step 1

Stringers

This is going to be the most difficult part – getting this cut right. Just follow the directions above, and measure carefully, and you should be able to tackle this one with easy.

Step 2

Front Apron

Now this is an easy step. Just screw the front apron to the stringers.

Step 3

Seat Slats

Now simply screw the seat slats down. You can also use nail and glue – it’s a doll chair

Step 4

Back

Now build the back as shown above.

Step 5

Step 6

Front Legs

And then mark the front legs and attach to the chair front as shown in the diagram.

Step 7

Arm Supports

Now attach the arm supports to the front legs, and then to the seat back.

Step 8

Arms

And then just attach the arms to the arm supports.

If you have any apprehension about building an Adirondack Chair, this would be a fabulous project to start with. And I have to tell you, the Adirondack Chairs are amazing, some of my absolute favorite pieces in my own home.

Thanks again to Fiona for sharing her plans and photos!

Comments

Jon'el (not verified)

Mon, 12/13/2010 - 04:36

I need to stop coming on this website for the next couple of days! I am building my 6 year old daughter a kitchen playset and I am half way done in building for Christmas. I also built her a doll bed but now I want to do the picnic table and the adirondack chair =)

Vanessa (not verified)

Mon, 12/13/2010 - 08:04

My husband (Santa) spent the day in the shop yesterday building the doll farmhouse bed and the crib. They're so cute! Thanks for the plans. I'll have to build the chair this spring :)

Tasha (not verified)

Mon, 12/13/2010 - 13:52

I love this... and I love your site. THANK YOU ANA!!! We are building a playhouse right now, after that project is done, I'll have a TON of yourminiature furniture to build for it. My girls will love you after that's completed. :)

V (not verified)

Tue, 12/14/2010 - 12:29

How big of a gap did you leave between the seat slats? (Sorry, my email was mis-typed on the last question!!)

In reply to by V (not verified)

spiceylg

Mon, 04/11/2011 - 04:41

The pic does show 1x3s but the list shows 1x2s.  I built with 1x2s and didn't like the look so I swapped them out for 1x3s.  Much better.

spiceylg

Sun, 04/10/2011 - 05:58

@V her pic and diagram both show 1x3s but cut list shows 1x2s.  I did the 1x2s and I didn't like the look so I then used 1x3s instead.  Much better.  Fiona/Ana I've a question, tried to post on FB, but didn't receive any feedback.  I had trouble on the angled piece.  Is it because the 1x3 isn't really a 1x3? Do the measurements take in account for this or is it just me?  Also, the diagram shows no angle cut on the bottom of the stringers, yet the picture of the finished product does.  Wondering about that angle because even though I'm still very happy with the end result, I think your chair might show the angle of the seat back further back then my finished result.  However, I saw no way to fix that if you put it flush with the stringer as annotated on plans.  Hope that makes sense how I explained it.

akstover

Sat, 04/17/2021 - 15:46

The original photo shows the back feet with an angled cut to flattened the edge, but this is not captured in the plans. Does anyone know the dimensions of that cut?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!