Flip Down Wall Art Desk

flip down art desk murphy for kids
Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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This do it yourself kids desk folds up to become a wall chalkboard! Stores art supplies and even a paper roll holder! Super easy step by step instructions to DIY your own!

wall mouted art desk

 

Perfect for an Kid's Art Desk

It's just right in size for an art station!  I love that art supplies are all kept right where they are used.

 

Tiny Space Solution

We love that this desk can work anywhere and takes up no floor space!
 

Storage Too!

This desk, when closed, takes up NO floor space, and acts as a chalkboard for playing school.  But when opened, the desk not only creates a perfect for kids coloring height desktop, it opens up a dedicated area for storing art supplies.  And I've even put in a spot for a craft paper roll!
 

Easy Systems

With this system, the supplies are stored where they are used.  That's what? fifteen minutes less for me of picking up crayons a day?  Adds up . . . 92 hours a year!!!
 

Mount at Any Height

I mounted this desk at Grace's preferred height of 22" to the desktop, but you can mount it at any height.  Hannah is seven, and the desk is still just the right size for her.
 

Easy to Use

I installed a simple hook and eye closure to keep the desk shut.  To use, just remove the hook and eye and fold open.
 
 

Support Brackets

You can use a wire and chain as a support (as I did) mounted on the exterior, or you can use a support hinge bracket as done below.  NOTE: You may need to adjust the shelving inside the cabinet to give room for the support hinge to close.  I suggest purchasing your hardware BEFORE building and adjusting your shelf locations to fit.

flip down desk hardware support

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Flip Down Wall Art Desk

Dimensions
flip down art desk dimensions
You can alter the width of the desk, but do not go any deeper - the support is not there!

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 - piece 3/4" plywood 16" x 24"
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 10 feet long
  • 1 set hinge supports or wire or chain (see comments)
  • 1 set basic hinges
  • 3 D ring hangers
  • Chalkboard paint (optional)
  • Moulding or trim (optional)
Common Materials
2 inch screws
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
paint
paint brush
Cut List

1 - 1x4 @ 11 1/4"

1 - 1x4 @ 12 3/4"

2 - 1x4 @ 14 1/2"

2 - 1x4 @ 24"

1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 24" x 16"

1/2" dowel, 30" long (optional for the paper roll)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

I built this project with 2" finish nails, but you can also use screws or the Kreg Jig.

 
Start in the center and work your way outward so you don't get caught in a corner.  Mark all joints and fasten with glue.

Please read all comments when installing the hinge supports - per reader comments, depending on your hinge supports, you may need to add extra clearance for the supports.

Step 2

Mark joints and attach in place.

Step 3

Now the top and bottom. Drill 1/2" diameter holes for paper roll here. Leave dowel long so you can roll the outside ends to roll up the craft roll.

Step 4

You do not have to put the trim on, I did because my chalkboard edges were so ugly! I used window casing, but you can use anything. Attach the top with simple hinges on the bottom.

Step 5

Use D Ring hanging brackets to hang on the wall.  Be SURE to attach to at least one stud in the wall, and properly hang in drywall on two other locations.

Step 6

 
UPDATE: Per reader comments, this desk may not fit standard support hinges with the paper roll holder.   I used a simple chain on the outside coupled with euro style non mortise hinges that already provide support and it's plenty strong.  If I had placed the hinges inset more, the chain could have been put on the inside of the desk as well - but it just worked out better on the outside for me.
 
Other workarounds could be flipping the desk over so the paper roll is to the top, or using a wider width board for the outer frame, with a slightly narrower width board (for example a 1x4 frame with 1x3 shelves) to fit the support hinges.
 
My apologies to anyone having issues.  Thank you to those of you who have left feedback, it is greatly appreciated.  Ana
 
 
Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

kongk

Tue, 05/21/2013 - 05:53

Generally I do not read article on blogs, however I wish to say that this write-up very forced me to check out and do so! Your writing taste has been amazed me. Thanks, very great post.
W3BZ Advice

Al Lulu

Fri, 06/07/2013 - 16:06

Ana, because I love your plans I went out and bought a kreg jig. 

So here is my dumb question. The plan calls for 2 inch nails but if I use a crate chick and use 2 inch pocket screws it goes right through both boards. What size Kreg screws and I supposed to use for this plan? I finished it with 2 inch Phillips and that was fine. Had to make some adjustments since not everything lined up the way I wanted. 

But since you love the Kreg can you tell me the screw answer?

clloyd7

Fri, 01/30/2015 - 22:23

I realize this thread is old, but I figured I'd answer in case anyone else was looking for the answer to this question. Pocket hole screws are sized based upon the material thickness the screw will be used in. The screw length to material thickness charts are typically on the Kreg screw boxes. If not, your pocket hole jig set should have included a list.

For reference, you can find the information and a handy illustration here: http://www.kregtool.com/files/newsletters/kregplus/Images/february12/se…

clloyd7

Fri, 01/30/2015 - 22:23

I realize this thread is old, but I figured I'd answer in case anyone else was looking for the answer to this question. Pocket hole screws are sized based upon the material thickness the screw will be used in. The screw length to material thickness charts are typically on the Kreg screw boxes. If not, your pocket hole jig set should have included a list.

For reference, you can find the information and a handy illustration here: http://www.kregtool.com/files/newsletters/kregplus/Images/february12/se…

KELLY JONES

Sat, 12/07/2013 - 21:56

Hi Ana,
I am in love with this design and I have bought all the materials to make two of them for the children I nanny for. After sitting down to make sure I had all my material before jumping in I realized i was missing the 22 ½ inch 1x4 that is need to make the shelf above the paper roll. After looking back I noticed that it is also missing in the cut list. So I was not sure if somewhere I missed something while reading. Any help would be FANTASTIC!!

nettibug60

Sun, 03/01/2015 - 21:03

I have home-schooled mine as well as other peoples children. We had desks similar to this in our former home and are making these for our current home. We had a couple questions. We noticed on the cut list, it did not include the board at the bottom just above the dowel for paper. This bring about another question, if a person puts in this board/shelf (which we did put in), there would be no room for the hinge you are suggesting. Can you tell me how we can have the shelf, dowel for paper and use that hinge?

LanaiLynne

Tue, 05/12/2015 - 15:18

I just came across this on a search for something similar in which to keep my MANY herbal supplements and night-time meds -- thanks so very much! I plan to add shelves inside to best-fit my bottles, and will make it taller overall to hold more of the same!

I will leave upper shelves open -- that is, the desk/counter surface will only cover the lower portion of the unit ... to reduce weight, primarily, though I will also use exposed shelves for knick-knack display.

I tend to clutter my kitchen counters with supplements because I want to be close to the refrig in case I need more liquid mid-swallow! Any time I can go vertical for storage, count me in! Thanks for posting this.

konadreamer

Wed, 06/29/2016 - 17:48

Aloha Ana,

I built this desk this weekend and the cut list was short one piece...luckily I had some extra 1 x 4 laying around!  Might be good to adjust the PDF for future builders.

The 22 1/2 " length of the 1x4 was missing.

Seasonal And Holiday

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!