Grandy Barn Door Console

Difficulty
Intermediate
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About Project

How to build barn door console or buffet - free plans by ANA-WHITE.com

Man oh man do I ever have a treat for you today!

Do you follow Nikki Grandy on Instagram yet?

 

If you do, you know she pretty much has redefined the sliding door console.

 

reclaimed wood barn door console beautiful distressed chippy paint

My personal favorite is her reclaimed wood version with herringbone pattern doors.

rustic distressed barn door sliding console furniture

 

How stunningly gorgeous is this barn door console?

Yep, she's letting me share plans with you!!!

The plans for this amazing barn door console follow, but one thing first - hop over to Instagram and follow nikki_grandy right now!

 

Have an awesome Wednesday!

Ana

 

PS - barn door hardware has come down alot in price!  

$50 for 8 foot long sliding door hardware from Amazon - and it has five star reviews!

Barn Door Console Plans

Dimensions
Dimensions shown above. Can be altered in height and width.

Preparation

Shopping List

2 - 2x10 @ 8 feet long

2 - 1x8 @ 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long

1 sheet of 1/4" thick plywood or hardboard (for back)

3 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long

4 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long

6 - 2x3 @ 8 feet long

2 - project panel pieces 17-1/4" x 36" (may be advertised as 18" wide project panel - measure in store)

Hardware for sliding doors

 

 

Common Materials
2 1/2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
Cut List

Frames

4 - 2x3 @ 84"

4 - 2x3 @ 17"

4 - 2x3 @ 14"

 

Sides

2 - 3/4" thick project panels or plywood 36" x 17-1/4"

 

Face Frame

5 - 1x4 @ 36"

8 - 1x4 @ 17-3/4"

 

Shelves

2 - 1x8 @ 87"

2 - 1x10 @ 87"

 

Middle Shelf Supports and Cleats

5 - 1x2 @ 14"

5 - 1x2 @ 17"

 

Back 

1/4" plywood pieces 36" long

 

Bottom Trim

1 - 1x2 @ 90" - both ends cut at 45 degrees, NOT parallel, longest point measurement

2 - 1x2 @ 18-3/4" - one end cut at 45 degrees, longest point measurement

 

Top

2 - 2x10 @ 91" 

 

Doors are cut to fit, overall 20" x 30"

 

 

 

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build two frames out of 2x3s.  The frames should be screwed together as this is the main support for the entire piece.  Use 2-1/2" or longer screws, or for those of you with a Kreg Jig, use 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.  Don't forget to glue the joints.

Don't be concrened about being perfect here, the entire frame is concealed.

Step 2

For the sides, add the side panels.  This plan is designed to work with project panels 17-1/4" wide.  You can use any material here, plywood or reclaimed wood too.  I recommend screwing these to the frames, but you could also use nails and glue - nails should be at least 1-1/4" long.  I love how the back overhangs by 1/4" to conceal the back (will put that on in later steps).

Step 3

Now the face frame.  With the projec ton it's back, lay out all the face frame boards and glue and nail down.  Nails should be at least 1-1/4" long. Pocket hole users could also build the face frame seperately and attach.

Step 4

Lay the bottom shelf boards down on the bottom frame.  Nail and glue down, with nails longer than 1-1/4".  There can be a gap between the boards, but the shelf should not go past the back of the bottom frame (sides overhang by 1/4" to allow for the back).

Step 5

Step 6

Build your bottom shelf by attaching bottom shelf boards to the shelf cleats.  Use 1-1/4" long nails and glue to attach.  Can have a gap in the middle.

Step 7

Place shelf inside console and attach from outsides to secure in place.  

Step 8

To get the planked look on the back of the console, Nikki ripped 1/4" plywood into strips and then attached the individual strips to the back.  You can also use full sheet of 1/4" plywood. You can use shorter nails here but if you don't want to buy a shorter nail (3/4" would be ideal) the 1-1/4" nails would be fine.

Step 9

The bottom is trimmed out in simple 1x2s, mitered around corners.  Use 1-1/4" nails and glue to secure.

Step 10

Attach top with the longer screws you used to build the top frames (2-1/2" or longer) so top is flush to back and side overhangs are even.  TIP: You may wish to stain the top boards first.

Step 11

Nikki built the doors shown with 1/2" plywood with smaller strips nailed on top, but you can use a variety of different methods to build the doors (love the reclaimed wood!) Nikki makes her own sliding door hardware too.

 

Jaime from That's My Letter provides a good tutorial on her sliding door hardware if you want to check that out.  

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Lady Goats

Wed, 08/12/2015 - 22:15

Looks like that's just whatcha get when you use off the shelf lumber. If you don't like that, there are a few simple things to do. Please let me recommend that you measure your 1x4s before making any changes, as they're not always 3 1/2", so you may not have to make any modifications.

If you do have to modify, he simplest way, I think, would be to screw the bottom frame 1/4" from the bottom (that's actually a good thing to do long-term, as most furniture doesn't have the frame pieces rest on the ground because it may begin to wobble if boards warp). All of the weight would be on the two side pieces, and the 1x2 trim would cover any gap at the bottom. Secondly, you could use 1x3s for the bottom of the face frame, gluing/nailing flush to the bottom shelf and using the 1x2 trim to cover the bottom gap. If you have access to a table saw, you could just rip the 1/4" that you don't want off. 

 

Or you could place 1/4" spacers on top of the bottom frame, elevating the bottom shelf a little more. 

 

But then you have to buy more material unnecessarily...

JHardaway

Fri, 08/21/2015 - 05:25

Thanks for the help! I ended up ripping the quarter ench off of the 1x4's with my table saw, and it turned out great.  For both shelves, I also used two 1x10's (instead of the 1x10 and 1x8 the plan calls for) and then ripped one board down to 7 3/4".  This gives a perfectly 17" shelf, which means there is no "gap" as discussed in the plans.  Its turning out great so far! just need to figure out how to do the barn door style hardware!

Jippy

Sat, 08/15/2015 - 21:57

I appreciate the plans but the whole point of this post is about sliding doors yet we get no instruction on where to buy hardware or make our own. There is also no tutorial on how to make the X insert on the doors. Without instructions on these two things I think the whole post is almost pointless. It might as well just say here are plans for a regular ole buffet. I believe Nikki Grandy should show us a tutorial on how she made her hardware as it looks significantly different than the one from "Thats my Letter." But big thank you to the person from that blog who so graciously shared the tutorial about their hardware. 

Jippy

Sun, 11/08/2015 - 09:12

Thanks bhoppy but that hardware is far too big for this console. I think that's everyone's frustration is you cannot find barn hardware that small, you have to make it.

cjay

Tue, 12/08/2015 - 14:35

For the rollers I used patio door wheel.  I got them at Home Depot (item # 100179045).  Pack of 2 was right at $6.  For the rail I used 1 1/4" x 1/8" flat bar.  I only made mine 6' so that is what I used.  I think is was about $11.  For the door hangers and the rail supports I used 1" x 3/16" flat bar.  I heated it up with a propane torch then I stuck it in a vise and bent it as much as I could.  I then removed it from the vise and stuck a piece of wood in the bend that was the thickness that I needed.  I hammered it down until it was snug with the wood.  Then just drill and add the roller.  

Jippy

Fri, 12/11/2015 - 22:54

Thank you cjay! You're awesome. I figured I would just have to put flat bars in a vice and bend them. Glad it worked for you.

imsomark

Sun, 02/14/2016 - 17:50

I bent mine in a vise and it worked great with aluminum. I just used a normal hammer and it didn't really eave any marks. I cut the bar to size with a jigsaw and used a file to remove any sharp edges.