Modern Farmhouse Bed Frame

modern farmhouse wood bed frame
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build your own wood bed frame!  This modern farmhouse style bed is easy to build with off the shelf materials and basic tools.  You'll love our step by step diagrams, shopping list and cut list for all standard mattress sizes, and lots of reader submitted photos.  Designed by Ana White.

Matching nightstand plans are here.

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modern farmhouse bed plans

The right bed makes the room.  In a bedroom, the bed dominates the room, grounds it, and is the focal point.  All the other bedroom furniture simply compliments the bed.

So when it comes to designing a bedroom, I always start with the bed.  And it better be grand!

 

Why Build Your Own Bed?

But the problem is, a beautiful bed can be very expensive - as in thousands of dollars.  But the good news is beds are fairly easy to build, and for the size of the bed, astonishingly inexpensive.  Most beds we build (including this one) include a platform (so no need for a box spring) - saving you even more money.

You can save upwards of 90 PERCENT OFF when you build your own bed!

If saving money isn't incentive enough, consider being about to choose a custom finish, being able to customize the size, building a sturdier bed - there's lots of reasons to go DIY.  And let's not forget - a solid wood bed is so beautiful!

 

What Happened to the Original Farmhouse Bed?

We just moved into a new home, and our original DIY farmhouse bed wouldn't fit between the windows.

But I still wanted that "farmhouse" look - the square styling, the planked headboard, the beefy legs.  But maybe a little more modern.  

 

Modern Farmhouse Bed Design

Using off the shelf 2x4s, 2x6s, 4x4s and leftover tongue and groove from our house ceiling (you can also use 1x6s or other materials), we built this new, modern farmhouse bed.

modern farmhouse bed frame

We ran the planking horizontal this time, and traded the footboard and siderails in for a platform base.  The results are all that rustic charm, but in a simplified version that is just as sturdy and beautiful as the original.

modern farmhouse bedroom grey walls

This bed also ended up being easier to build and less expensive than the original farmhouse bed, thanks to the simplified design, less cuts and less joints, and less trim boards.

 

Matching Nightstands

This bed really made our room amazing when paired with our matching Modern Farmhouse Nightstands

modern farmhouse nightstand gray finish

You can find plans for the matching nightstands here.

 

 

Weathered Wood Finish

We kept the finish simple with Varathane Weathered Wood Accelerator - it ages the wood in minutes and creates a natural looking grey finish.

 

 

Video Tutorial of Modern Farmhouse Bed Build

We did a video on the build of this bed, do watch - lots of little tricks and tips -

 

Modern Farmhouse Bed Plans

The step by step plan follows, with diagrams and shopping lists and cut list.  For your convenience, the plans include everything you need to make this bed in a twin, full, queen or king (both standard and california king).  Thank you for using our plans, it is much appreciated.

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Modern Farmhouse Bed Frame

Dimensions
diagram of modern farmhouse bed plans showing dimensions
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

TWIN SHOPPING LIST - Mattress Size 39" x 75"

  • 2 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long
  • 11 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length (includes mattress slats)
  • 3 - 2x6 @ 8 feet or stud length
  • 5 - 1x6 boards or tongue and groove paneling @ 4 feet long
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 6 feet long
  • 2-3/4" self tapping screws
  • 1-1/4" brad nails
  • 2-1/2" pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4" pocket hole screws (optional)

 

FULL SHOPPING LIST - Mattress Size 54" x 75"

  • 2 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long
  • 5 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length (cut the 75" boards from these)
  • 7 - 2x4 @ 10 feet (cut slats and rest of boards from these)
  • 4 - 2x6 @ 8 feet or stud length
  • 5 - 1x6 boards or tongue and groove paneling @ 54" long
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 6 feet long
  • 2-3/4" self tapping screws
  • 1-1/4" brad nails
  • 2-1/2" pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4" pocket hole screws (optional)

 

QUEEN SHOPPING LIST - Mattress Size 60" x 80"

  • 2 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length (cut the 75" boards from these)
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 10 feet (cut 60" boards from these)
  • 5 - 2x4 or 1x4 @ 12 feet long (cut slats from these)
  • 4 - 2x6 @ 8 feet or stud length
  • 5 - 1x6 boards or tongue and groove paneling @ 60" long
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 6 feet long
  • 2-3/4" self tapping screws
  • 1-1/4" brad nails
  • 2-1/2" pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4" pocket hole screws (optional)

 

STANDARD KING SHOPPING LIST - Mattress Size 76" x 80"

  • 2 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long
  • 8 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length (cut the 75" boards from these)
  • 11 - 2x4 or 1x4 @ 8 feet or stud length (cut slats from these)
  • 4 - 2x6 @ 8 feet or stud length
  • 5 - 1x6 boards or tongue and groove paneling @ 76" long
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 6 feet long
  • 2-3/4" self tapping screws
  • 1-1/4" brad nails
  • 2-1/2" pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4" pocket hole screws (optional)

 

CALIFORNIA KING SHOPPING LIST - Mattress Size 72" x 84"

  • 2 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long
  • 8 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length (cut the 75" boards from these)
  • 11 - 2x4 or 1x4 @ 8 feet or stud length (cut slats from these)
  • 4 - 2x6 @ 8 feet or stud length
  • 5 - 1x6 boards or tongue and groove paneling @ 72" long
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 6 feet long
  • 2-3/4" self tapping screws
  • 1-1/4" brad nails
  • 2-1/2" pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4" pocket hole screws (optional)
Cut List

TWIN CUT LIST - Mattress Size 39" x 75"

  • 2 - 4x4 @ 52-1/2" - Headboard Legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 46" - Top of headboard
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 27-1/2"
  • 5 - 1x6 or 1x6 tongue and groove @ 39" - Headboard planking
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 39"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 75" - Siderail Top
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 75" - Siderail
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 14-1/2" - Footboard Legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 39" - Footboard Top
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 39" - Footboard Base
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 75" - Cleats 
  • 11 - 1x4 or 2x4 @~41" - Slats (cut to fit)

 

FULL CUT LIST - Mattress Size 54" x 75"

  • 2 - 4x4 @ 52-1/2" - Headboard Legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 61" - Top of headboard
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 27-1/2" - headboard cleats
  • 5 - 1x6 or 1x6 tongue and groove @ 54" - Headboard planking
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 54"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 75" - Siderail Top
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 75" - Siderail
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 14-1/2" - Footboard Legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 54" - Footboard Top
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 54" - Footboard Base
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 75" - Cleats
  • 1 - 2x4 @ ~76" - Center Cleat (cut to fit)
  • 11 - 1x4 or 2x4 @ ~56" - Slats (measure and cut to fit)

 

QUEEN CUT LIST - Mattress Size 60" x 80"

  • 2 - 4x4 @ 52-1/2" - Headboard Legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 67" - Top of headboard
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 27-1/2"
  • 5 - 1x6 or 1x6 tongue and groove @ 60" - Headboard planking
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 60"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80" - Siderail Top
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 80" - Siderail
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 14-1/2" - Footboard Legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 60" - Footboard Top
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 60" - Footboard Base
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80" - Cleats
  • 1 - 2x4 @ ~81" - Center Cleat (cut to fit)
  • 10 - 1x4 or 2x4 @ ~62" - Slats (measure and cut to fit)

 

STANDARD KING CUT LIST - Mattress Size 76" x 80"

  • 2 - 4x4 @ 52-1/2" - Headboard Legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 83" - Top of headboard
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 27-1/2"
  • 5 - 1x6 or 1x6 tongue and groove @ 76"- Headboard planking
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 76"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80" - Siderail Top
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 80" - Siderail
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 14-1/2" - Footboard Legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 76" - Footboard Top
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 76" - Footboard Base
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80" - Cleats
  • 1 - 2x4 @ ~81" - Center Cleat (cut to fit)
  • 11 - 1x4 or 2x4 @ ~82" - Slats (measure and cut to fit)

 

CALIFORNIA KING CUT LIST - Mattress Size 72" x 84"

  • 2 - 4x4 @ 52-1/2" - Headboard Legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 79" - Top of headboard
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 27-1/2"
  • 5 - 1x6 or 1x6 tongue and groove @ 72" - Headboard planking
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 72"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 84" - Siderail Top
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 84" - Siderail
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 14-1/2" - Footboard Legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 72" - Footboard Top
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 72" - Footboard Base
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 84" - Cleats
  • 1 - 2x4 @ ~85" - Center Cleat (cut to fit)
  • 11 - 1x4 or 2x4 @ ~86" - Slats (measure and cut to fit)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Attach top 2x4 to legs - we just screwed through top with 2-3/4" self tapping screws.

Step 2

Screw 2x2 cleats to the 4x4 legs with 2-3/4" screws and glue.

NOTE: The diagram shows a 1x2.  Either will work but the 2x2 is stronger.

Step 3

Attach first plank board to cleats, top and legs.  If using tongue and groove, place groove side up, tongue side down.  Pocket holes (3/4" setting, 1-1/4" screws) recommended for attaching to legs and top.

Step 4

Attach remaining planking boards.  If not using tongue and groove, you will need to attach each 1x6 to the 1x6 before it with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Step 6

Build two of the siderails by attaching 2x6 to 2x4 with pocket holes.  We centered the 2x4 on the 2x6.  I also drilled pocket holes to attach the 2x4 (place carefully so won't be covered by 2x6) and 2x6 to the legs in later steps (see step 8).

Step 7

Build the footboard as you did the siderail, then attach to legs.

Step 8

Attach siderails to the legs with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws or metal brackets.

Step 9

Add cleats with 2-3/4" self tapping wood screws.  Center cleat optional for twin bed.

For additional support center legs can be added to the center cleat.

TWIN: No center support is needed

Step 10

Lay slats over cleats and screw down.

Comments

kceglia

Wed, 12/01/2021 - 12:07

Thank you for adding in the Cal King dimensions and lumber. This is huge!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!