Nesting Grill Station for Portable Grill

nesting grill station
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Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build your own nesting grill station for a portable grill!  Features grill table with storage for gas and grill, and a counter height dining/serving table, so you can pop out an entire outdoor kitchen set up in seconds!

Free step by step plans with detailed diagrams and shopping and cut list from Ana-White.com

How amazing are portable gas grills?  They take up so little space, you can bring them anywhere - so no need to have multiple grills, and they do a great job for an economical price! 

I love portable gas grills so much, I had to make an entire grilling station based around one!

Here's how it works -

grill station put away

An enclosed console outside, that you can use for a variety of uses - as a bar, put an outdoor TV over it, or as a serving console -

outdoor grill table

If you want to grill, just pull out the lower table, move it away from a structure (so it's fire safe), and set your grill up.  I made the lower table table height, so it's perfect for a portable gas grill that adds about 6" in height.

grilling station nesting tables

You can also move the "over" table out, and use it for dining.  It fits about six stools (max) - but four would be more comfortable.

grill station party

We LOVE that you can use this system in unlimited configurations.  You can set it up as an island, as an L shape, with the grill out, with the grill facing in ... whatever your occasion and your space requires, this grill system is up for the challenge!

grill station plans

 

Watch the Video - Building the Grill Station

This was actually a pretty easy build!  The hardest part was the X detailing (which you can omit or customize to make easier).  We created a video of the build process for your convenience -

Free Nesting Grill Station Plans

Love this grill station?  You can't buy it - you have to build it!

 

 

 

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Nesting Grill Station for Portable Grill

Dimensions
nesting grill station plans
Dimensions for nesting grill station plans

Preparation

Shopping List

 

  • 2 - 2x6 @ 10 feet long
  • 8 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or 92-5⁄8” stud length
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 12 - 5-1⁄2” wide Cedar Fence Pickets (can be dogeared, but better to use straight cut fence pickets)
  • 8 - 2-1⁄2” diameter caster wheels for exterior use
  • 100 - 2-1⁄2” to 3” long self tapping exterior screws (recommend star bit wood construction screws)
  • 150 - 1-1⁄4” to 1-1⁄2” long self tapping exterior screws (recommend star bit wood construction screws)
  • Exterior wood stain or paint (about a quart)
  • 8 Caster Wheels, 2-1⁄2” diameter (4 braking recommended)
Cut List

cut list

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Build two bar sides identical by attaching the legs to the 19-1⁄2” side pieces. Use the longer screws, two per joint. All outside edges are flush, everything is flush to the back.

Step 2

Lay the 2x2s out over the side openings and trace with a pencil. Cut off ends (can be cut at an angle to match or simply cut square as shown.

Overlap and trace the overlap in the middle. Cut one of the 2x2s on the overlap lines.
Attach to the sides with a single longer screw, and longer screws at the intersection of the 2x2s. Repeat for both sides.

Step 3

Attach bar aprons to the legs with the longer screws at an angle or use a Kreg Jig on the 1-1⁄2” setting with 2-1⁄2” screws.

Step 4

If you did not use pocket hole screws and want to add additional bracing, you can use either 2x4 or 2x2 scraps with ends cut at 45 degrees, about 12-13” long, as shown in the diagram.

Avoid cutting angles from 2x4s from small pieces of wood - always secure with clamps before cutting.

Step 5

Attach with longer screws the remaining 2x4 @ 19-1⁄2” long in the center - you need this board to help support the 2x6 top.

Step 6

Layout the 2x6 bar top boards on top of the bar, with even overhangs (about 1⁄2”) on the ends and sides, and about 1⁄2” gap in between. Secure with longer screws into the legs, and the center support.

Step 7

Inner Cart Construction

Use the longer screws to build two identical frames for the grill cart, two screws per joint.

Step 8

Layout the grill cart top boards, evenly spacing with small gaps in between. Secure with the shorter screws, two screws per end of each cedar fence picket.

Step 9

Repeat steps for the two sides of the grill cart.

Step 10

Measure the width of the front of the grill cart and cut the front pieces from remaining cedar fence pickets. Save the scraps.

Attach to the front with shorter screws, also attaching in the middle to the middle 2x4 support.

Step 11

Place remaining scraps inside the cart and secure with screws.

Step 12

Attach caster wheels to the base with the shorter screws. We recommend braking casters for two wheels on each of the pieces.

Comments

michael_b101

Thu, 07/09/2020 - 05:27

Plans are no longer available?. Saddened, as this likely will retire our kitchen table and put in its place this as a breakfast station for the waffle/pancake griddles.

Sb1212

Tue, 07/14/2020 - 18:09

I want to add brag post for the nesting grill station but it is not allowing me to add pictures.

MamaMaria

Thu, 07/16/2020 - 10:56

Hi,
New to all this. How do we get the same natural finished look on any project. Is this wood douglas fir or pine or some other? And what finished coat would be used to achieve this look and color?
Thanks!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!