Pallet Wall from HGTV Saving Alaska

Difficulty
Intermediate
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The easy way to make a beautiful pallet wall. Did you notice the little shelves too?

Happy Friday folks!!!

Well, we may finally have some news for you soon on our HGTV pilots .... BUT I still can't tell you just quite yet.  Very soon!!!

There's one final project for me to share from the two episodes I filmed last year for HGTV, and it's the one you all are most interested in!  The pallet wall!

There's only one thing cuter on this show than that pallet wall -

Okay, two things.  The kid's almost as cute as his Daddy.

Can you believe he was that small when we filmed these episodes?  We are thankful that we've been able to keep a pretty quiet and calm home for him over the past year as Hayes has gone from tinest newborn to rowdiest toddler, so while it's taken much longer than we had anticpated to get you more details on our possible future on television, it's been a hidden blessing for our very young family.  

But going through this episode to pull the pictures for this tutorial has made me excited to hopefully get another opportunity at television!  Cross your fingers for me please!

So enough about all that, give me that pallet wall already, right?

Here goes!

I took a trip to the Alaska Pallet Services Company.  They take damaged pallets and rehab them using scraps from other damaged pallets, and then sell the refurbished pallets to the seafood industry so we can send our Alaska seafood around the world.

This mountain of pallets is almost as awesome as Denali.  Seriously.  

But every once in a while, a pallet is not rehab-able.  So they have a flat bandsaw machine that cuts the pallet nails to disassemble the pallet.  The boards are not cut at all, so all pallet boards end up being 32" long (this is important later on).

And sell them for forty cents a board.  Forty cents.  Nail heads included.  

You know I loaded up on these boards, right?

And then off to the project!

We were working with basement walls that had no studs behind them.  So we had to fur out the wall with 2x2 boards.  But even if you aren't working with a basement wall, you might want to frame a 2x2 wall out too so that you could minimize the damage to your drywall, and also it will be much easier to secure your pallet boards to the raw studs.  The other reason we choose to fur the wal out is there was no electrical in the basement wall, so we just ran electrical in the new furred out wall.

One thing that really saved us alot of time was placing our new studs on 16" centers.  

The pallet boards we worked with are 32" long, so they fit perfectly on the 16" stud layout.  We only had to cut the end pallet boards.

Shelley, the home owner, did most of this project.  She nailed the pallet boards to the wall, overlapping the ends.

Not having to cut boards saved a ton of time.  Just grab a pallet board, nail it up, and move on!

We started at the top and worked downward so that any uneven ends would be hidden by the baseboard at the very end.  Also notice the little shelves we integrated into some of the rows.  I wanted to add a little dimensions to the pallet wall, and some usefulness too.

A perfect spot for little tealights!

 

It was all of our favorite projects in this room!  

What do you think?  

Of course this entire room is DIY - you can get the bed plans here and the nightstand plans here.

You may have noticed a few other pallet pieces in the room too - we used up some scrap boards to make these cute little coat hooks.  Those are just cabinet knobs.

Thank you everyone for your tremendous support of our HGTV pilots.  Can't wait to share the big news with you soon!

Have a great weekend!

XO Ana and Family

 

 

 

 

 

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

carongirls

Fri, 02/27/2015 - 12:11

I loved the pallet wall and that machine that guy had to cut the nails. Thats the hardest part of taking apart a pallet. I was just thinking about your HGTV show....if it was picked up for more episodes. I sure hope so!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!