Patrick's Jelly Cupbard

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 12/12/2011 - 11:35
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This DIY Jelly Cupboard Plan features a shelves behind doors and primitive styling. Free simple step by step plans to build your own.

Well, we've got ourselves a full day of snow shoveling today. I'm sad to say though temperatures have warmed considerably, we have not yet been able to work on the Momplex. Hopefully today we will have an opportunity. 

But today, I'm so excited to share with you Patrick's Jelly Cupboard. Patrick and I worked on the plans together, but making it amazing is all on Patrick!
Primitive furniture is a favorite of mine, and Patrick's Jelly Cupboard with it's distressed finish is gorgeous!
Loving the hardware and wire mesh for the doors.  Really gives the project characters and uniqueness.
And some tips from Patrick:
On your worktable, clamp two boards together at a right angle with a square
And then use these boards as guides to make perfect square doors.
Place shims between the doors for a perfect fit as you install hinges.
And this is one of my favorite tips - for a distressed finish with rubbed dark edges, spray paint with cheap black spray paint the edges you plan to distress. Paint over, and then sand back to reveal the black.
Dimensions are shown above.


Shopping List

1 – 1x10 @ 8 feet long 2 – 1x12 @ 8 feet long 1 sheet 1/4” plywood or beadboard paneling 5 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long 1 – 1x2 @ 3 feet long Hinges Knobs Magnetic Clasps

Cut List

2 – 1x12 @ 47 1/4” 3 – 1x10 @ 32” 1 – 1x12 @ 32” 1 – 1x12 @ 35” 1 – 1x3 @ 33 1/2” 2 – 1x3 @ 44 3/4” 1 – 1x2 @ 35” 1 – 1/4” plywood @ 48” x 33 1/2” 2 – 1/4” plywood @ 12” x 38 1/2” 4 – 1x3 @ 11” 4 – 1x3 @ 36 1/2”

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

Build exterior frame of cupboard with screws and glue. Mark overhangs on top and bottoms and attach carefully. Adjust for square.

Step 2

Shelves are 1x10, narrower width than the outside frame. Shelves are installed flush to back of cabinet. This will give room for your doors to have backing, if used.

Step 3

Attach plywood to back with 1 1/4" finish nails and glue. Make sure the cabinet is square, and attach to all fixed boards for best support.

Step 4

If you are using a pocket hole jig, build the frame first, then attach to the face of the cabinet. You can also taper bottom legs for a decorative look with a jigsaw or circular saw.

Step 5

Step 6

Measure your door openings, as board widths may vary, and build your doors giving an 1/8" gap on all sides of the doors. Attach backing to doors, and attach with hinges to cupboard.

Step 7

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.


Guest (not verified)

Mon, 12/12/2011 - 15:07

This is completely awesome!!!!Patrick's personalization just makes this piece!

Sunny E (not verified)

Mon, 12/12/2011 - 18:39

How do you make the doors? Specifically, how do you attach the wire/beadboard/plywood to the frames?


Mon, 12/12/2011 - 23:45

The screen doors are a bit tricky. You can do it a couple different ways. You can staple the wire cloth to the back of the door and then just cover it up with 1/4 inch molding. Keep in mind that when you do that, you make your door thicker than it was. While it was once 3/4 inches thick, now it's an inch thick which is thicker than your face frame. Confusing sorry. So if you do it that way, you'll have to find hinges that accommodate the step up that the thicker door causes.

The other way is rout whats called a rabbet on the inside of your door with a router. Next place the wire cloth inside the rabbet and then nail in what's called glass stop molding on top of the screen. It sounds more confusing than it is. Google routing rabbets or something similar to that and watch your woodworking knowledge expand. Glad you guys like it.

Guest (not verified)

Thu, 12/29/2011 - 21:47


What size router bit and bearings did you use for the rabbet and what size stop molding did you use? Any additional comments or help on this part would be helpful



In reply to by Guest (not verified)


Fri, 12/30/2011 - 21:33

I used a 3/4" straight bit to make the rabbet. I didn't use a rabbeting bit because i needed the rabbet to be a full 3/4". My stop moulding was 3/4" x 1/4" which is normally used for edge banding plywood. It's wider than the normal rabbet in order to house the screen a little bit better. So I used a 3/4" straight bit on a router table to make it happen. The rabbet ends up being 3/4" wide by just a tad higher than 1/4" high. I hope that helps.

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 12/13/2011 - 05:53

This is a very cute cabinet and is just my style. However I feel there is a lack of instructions on building the doors. I would not know how to go about doing them... I guess the photos give a pretty good idea, but still.


Tue, 12/13/2011 - 06:38

I'm so glad Patrick and Ana teamed up for this one. I love looking at your projects on the brag posts Patrick. They are always so beautifully done. Thanks for sharing!

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