Planked Wood Sideboard

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 02/27/2012 - 08:20
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How to build a wood sideboard inspired by Restoration Hardware Salvaged Wood Sideboard.

Gigantic.

Huge.

Enormous. 

Or how about amazing, beautiful, stunning, glorious?

Hillary's sideboard, inspired by Restoration Hardware Salvaged Wood Sideboard, retailing for no less than $2995, made of reclaimed pine, can be yours with some elbow grease and a flatbed cart full of lumber.

And you can paint or stain it any color you choose.  I love the very deep and lustrous milk paint finish Hillary finished this sideboard with.
I encourage you this morning - if you are building or not this sideboard - to stop over and read Hillary's post.  She's a talented and clever lady, with lots of tips and tricks that could be useful when building most projects.  
And of course, the full plans follow for those of you needing a sideboard in your home.
Dimensions
Dimensions are shown above. Huge - be warned!

Preparation

Shopping List

6 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2x6 @ 8 feet long
7 – 1x4 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1x6 @ 6 feet long
¼” thick x 3 ½” wide boards for door panels or ¼” plywood or paneling
1 – sheet ¾” hardwood plywood
10 feet of 4 ¼” base moulding
3 – 15” drawer slides
2 ½” pocket hole screws
1 ¼” pocket hole screws
1 ¼” finish nails
2 ½” finish nails
1 – sheet ¼” plywood

Common Materials
3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
Cut List

4 - 2x4 @ 34 ½” (Legs)
4 – 2x4 @ 10 ½” (Panel ends)
6 – 1x4 @ 23 ½” (Side Panels)
2 – 2x4 @ 75 ½” (Bottom Supports)
1 – ¾” plywood @ 16 ¾” x 75 ½”
2 – ¾” plywood @ 16 ¾” x 30 ¼”
2 – 1x4 @ 18 1/8”
2 – 1x2 @ 75 ½”
2 – 1x2 @ 5 5/8”
2 – 1x2 @ 22 3/8”
2 – 2x4 @ 18”
2 – 2x4 @ 77”
2 – 2x6 @ 77”
8 – 1x4 @ 22 ¼”
8 – 1x4 @ 11”
¼” x 3 ½” hobby stock for backs of doors or ¼” plywood or paneling
2 – 1x4 @ 16 ¾”
6 – 1x4 @ 15 ½”
2 – 1x4 @ 33 3/4” (Measure and fit)
4 – 1x4 @ 15 5/8” (Measure and fit)
1x6 for drawer faces – cut to fit
1 – ¼” plywood @ 77” x 32” (Back)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Starting on the inside 1x4 panel and working your way out to adding legs, build your ends with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws, hiding your screws on the insides. Keep all edges flush. Remember that the backs are flush, but the outer side is not, with the 1x4 panel inset.

Step 2

I really wanted this sideboard to NEVER sag in the middle, so these boards are more for support than anything. I recommend attaching with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws from the back side to hide. Set aside, we'll work on the storage part now.

Step 3

For the storage part, attach plywood dividers to bottom very carefully, making sure joints are square.

Step 4

Then fit the center divider into the base as shown above. Fit flush to back.

Step 5

Step 6

On the front, add trim, being very careful to make sure your trim is square and straight. Remember, we've got drawers to fit.

Step 7

The remaining front trim is flush to the inside of side cabinets, overhanging the center cabinet.

Step 8

Build top as shown in diagram.

Step 9

You can attach top now, or as Hillary recommends, attach top after installing drawers.

Step 10

Cut baseboard, mitering corners to fit bottom. Nail on with glue.

Step 11

Build your door frames as shown above.

Step 12

Then attach hobby stock to centers to complete doors.

Step 13

These are for the drawers.

Step 14

Build drawers to fit openings. Remember, most drawer slides require 1/2" clearance on each side, or 1" overall. It's always a good idea to double check measurements with diagrams before building drawers.

Step 15

Install drawers with slides, set in 3/4" for the drawer faces. Then cut drawer faces and attach to drawers with 1 1/4" finish nails and glue.

Step 16

Add back. I really loved how Hillary inset her back.

Step 17

And finally, add shelves.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

heather_d

Sun, 04/22/2012 - 06:30

Hi Ana and Hillary- love these plans! Thank you very much for this. We are cutting the wood for this plan right now and am so excited. We are following the plans exactly so I have a couple quick comments/questions. We found it vey helpful with the cut list when you had what it was for in parentheses- keeping it all organized. Did we miss the interior shelves in your plans? Is hobby stock like beaded board that snaps together in different boards. or is it beaded board that is like a panel? (Canadians). Thank you
PS. How do you stop the ends of Purebond from getting chewed up going through the table saw? Heather

Hillary (not verified)

Mon, 06/04/2012 - 13:47

Hi, Heather. Sorry it took me so long to find this question!

It sounds like you need a new blade on your table saw -- one for finer cuts. That will keep your plywood from getting as chewed up. I just replaced the ones on my miter saw and my circular saw recently and it makes a huge difference. The stock blades are for rough cuts.

Hobby stock is 1/2" thick or thinner, and in lots of different widths.

I think the plans might have left out interior shelves. I have a vague memory of buying extra wood for them.

I hope your console came out well!

Kate M (not verified)

Thu, 06/21/2012 - 07:02

I have built over 30 different things on this site and up until now had ZERO problem with anything, but this plan is missing a good bit of info. If you are not experienced I would not try tackling this one. No where in the directions does it tell you what to make the bottom of the drawers with not to mention you are missing wood for shelved etc at the end so you have to go back to the hardware store. It is a very beautiful piece but you will need to go through the plans and be able to decipher what is not told or explained before you start.

d rob (not verified)

Thu, 07/12/2012 - 10:26

There are definitely a few things that have been left out.

You will need at least one more 1x2 at 8'. This is to complete the trim.

If you plan on making shelves, you will need to buy extra wood for that, along with another 1x2 for trim. I decided to use my router to just round the edges of my shelves so I didn't need the 1x2.

There is no wood in the supply list for the back of the sideboard as well as for the bottoms of the drawers. I just picked up a 1/4" sheet of plywood and was able to use it for the drawers and the back. BUT, I used my rabbet router bit to inset the 1/4" piece onto the back of the sideboard. Otherwise, the 4x8 sheet of 1/4" plywood still isnt enough wood. (A 15.5" cut for bottoms of drawers leaves 32.25" left on the sheet but the height of the sideboard is 34.5". SO, I made sure to inset the backing so I didnt have to buy even MORE lumber.)

As for the drawers, you will need another 1x4 at 8' to complete the drawer building.

As for the faces of the drawers, a 6' piece of 1x6 is ALMOST enough but runs just a lil short. You will need a 1x6 at 8' instead of what the plans call for.

I am still in the process of building, but those are just a few of the things that were wrong with the plans. With so many extra trips to the big blue and orange stores, this project has ended up costing much much more than I expected!
It is a beautiful piece though, my wife will absolutely love it, and I have loved working on it. Thanks Hillary!

Hillary (not verified)

Wed, 08/01/2012 - 12:23

Thanks, Rob, for your help with this! Yes, the plan is missing a few bits. I should have kept better track of those as I build the piece for Ana! You're right -- it isn't a cheap plan. I think I spent just shy of $400 for all the supplies. Compared to buying it retail, it's still a bargain, right?

d rob (not verified)

Wed, 08/01/2012 - 13:17

Yeah I think I spent around $400 as well. It turned out WAY better than I expected. The drawers and doors kicked my butt and were slightly frustrating (mostly because I am not an advanced carpenter) but it looks awesome in our living room! It looks very expensive and my wife is happy, so I am happy too! I wish I could send a pic to show how good it looks...

Laurie Falk (not verified)

Mon, 09/17/2012 - 19:43

Does anyone know if these missing pieces got corrected in the plans? I just want to make sure I'm planning the right way! :)

Nicholas s (not verified)

Thu, 07/12/2012 - 19:21

Just curious as to what type of wood you used or the dimensions you gave above. Also any alternative that would work nice compared to the type you used?