Simple White Outdoor Coffee Table

Beginner Projects
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Project plan for a DIY Outdoor Coffee Table. Features simple styling, a lower height to work with the Simple White Sofa. Uses off the shelf lumber.

Thank you everyone for your kind words of encouragement and support yesterday. I'm so excited to start working on the Momplex, and will be sure to keep you updated as often as possible! I read each and every comment, and although I could not respond to every comment (had to cut trees and argue over where the driveway goes with the Ram - more on that shortly) I thank you for taking your time to show your support. I mean it when I say I'm going to need it! Thank you again, your friendship means tons to me!

While we've got the Momplex going on, in our down time (bad weather, waiting for materials and equipment, or just needing a break) I'm still 100% committed to developing more simple, free, and easy project plans - so expect lots more cool plans that anyone can build as frequent as always.
First and foremost, I'd like to put together the complete collection of plans inspired by Restoration Hardware's discontinued Nantucket Collection.  That includes Loveseats and Chairs and tables and end tables, and today - Yay! - the coffee table!
The coffee table is a little lower than traditional coffee tables at 14" high - just right though for propping your feet up and working with the lounge height of our Simple White Sofa.  And you won't have to scold about propping feet up, this is going to be a rather inexpensive build.  Lumberwise, I estimate I've got fourteen or so dollars into this one.  Not bad.  Not bad at all, if I do say so myself!


Shopping List

5 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long

Common Materials
2 1/2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
wood conditioner
paint brush
Cut List

9 - 1x3 @ 43" (Tabletop Boards)
2 - 1x3 @ 24 1/2" (Breadboard Ends)
2 - 2x2 @ 43" (Side Aprons)
5 - 2x2 @ 19 1/2" (Supports)
4 - 2x2 @ 13 1/4" (Legs)

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

This project can be built with either countersunk screws or the Kreg Jig. I give directions for both in the diagrams.  You can click on any diagram for an expanded view.

If you are using the Kreg Jig, go ahead and mark all pocket holes and predrill, with your jig set for 1 1/2" stock, as shown above.
Otherwise, predrill holes with a countersink bit and fasten with 2 1/2" wood screws and glue.

Step 2

You will need to build two legs as shown above. 2 1/2" screws and wood glue.

Step 3

Attach leg sections to tabletop section as shown in diagram. Adjust for square.

Step 4

If you have a Kreg Jig, please skip to Step 6.

I used 2" finish nails and glue to attach the breadboard ends first. Ends overhang an inch, inside is flush to leg section inside.

Step 5

Step 6

For Kreg Jig users . . . drill pocket holes in all tabletop boards as shown above, set for 3/4" stock. Use 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and wood glue to fasten tabletop boards to breadboard ends. Make sure the tops are nice and flush.

Step 7

Once your tabletop is built, position the base centered on table, with 1" gap around all sides. Screw base to tabletop with 2" screws and glue.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.


In reply to by bhoppy

Ana White

Wed, 06/08/2011 - 07:51

I made mine without :( and regretted it. Just has such a nice touch with the breadboard ends. Just finished up the end tables, and will post shortly, and they look so much better with the breadboard ends. If you choose not to make the breadboard ends, simply cut your tabletop boards to 48" lengths.


Wed, 03/28/2012 - 06:42

Anna, Looks great. What type of wood did you use? I am concerned about using a non treated wood for the outdoors. Is there a special finish needed if the wood is pine?


Wed, 07/31/2013 - 10:18

It looks so good, I can't thank you enough for this plan. I did change it to a 3 ft x 3 ft table and I varied the thickness of some of the top slats too, which was partially me wanting to be different and partially me having some 1x4 spare that I really didn't want to throw away, but it was too short for pretty much everything else I tried except the table top slats! Now working on 2 loveseats - having a BBQ on Aug 17th, going to be all done by then!