Truss End Table

Difficulty
Intermediate
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About Project

Build this end table! DIY this end table with free plans from Ana White!

Can you believe that these end tables were built for $33?

 

Considering this design is inspired by Pottery Barn Sawyer end tables, retailing for $399 + $20 surcharge a piece, also made of pine ...

I'll do the math for you ...

 

[$399 + $20] X 2 = $838

Guess what this end table was made for?

$16.50.

Or two for $33.

That's an over $800 price difference. 

And bonus - you can stain or paint any color of your choice.

If you haven't already picked up a saw and started cutting, grabbed a drill and started building, I'm encouraging you to give it a go.

 

If you don't have the tools, experience, or even a work space, do not despair. Look around your home and draw inspiration from how you would like to make it better for your family. Cling to that inspiration, and call your dad, ask your neighbor, beg the nice person at the home improvement store - do what you need to to make your home better, no matter your budget or circumstances.

I worked with Ashley from Shanty2Chic on this project. Like many of us, Ashley is a working mom, with children at home. She wrote me last night saying, I'll have pictures to you after baseball is over. Because Ashley, like me, is just another mom trying to improve her home on a budget.  If we can do this, you certainly can as well.

I can't wait to see your handmade Truss Tables! They are going to be lovely.

PS - If you are interested in designing your own plans, I'm sharing my most secret tips, today's tip is on drawing angles the easy way. 

PSS - If you like this graphic, I show you how to make these graphics the super quick way, using software that you probably already have!

PSSS - Of course the coffee table is DIY too!  Build your own with these free plans!

Dimensions
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

2 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2x3 @ 8 feet long
1 – 2x2 @ 6 feet long
1 – 1x2 @ 4 feet long
1 1/4” and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws

*If you can't find 2x3s - a 2x6 can be ripped in half to make two 2x3s. They should measure 2 1/2" wide x 1 1/2" thick.

Cut List

4 – 2x3 @ 27” (Both ends cut at 10 degree bevel/5 degree angle, parallel, long point to short point)
2 – 2x3 @ 9 3/4" (both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point to long point)
2 – 2x3 @ 13" (both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point to long point)
2 – 2x2 @ 26 1/4" (both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point to long point)
5 – 2x4 @ 31 1/2"
2 – 1x2 @ 24” (cut angles in last step)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

I always do this because with small angles - especially double angles - it will get confusing which way is which. It's the little things that save the time!

Step 2

With the legs marked, add the aprons. Pay close attention to this diagram. The top apron is flush on top to the outside, but will NOT be on the inside, which is hidden under the seat.

Build two that are identical.

NOTE: Pocket hole users may wish to drill 1 1/2" pocket holes along top INSIDE edge of each end for attaching top in step 4.

Step 3

Once you have the ends built, it's time to add the side supports.

Step 4

I recommend building your tabletop first with pocket holes - 1 1/2" PH with 2 1/2" PH screws - and then attaching to leg sides.

Step 5

Step 6

For more photos and tips, and finishing information, please visit Ashley at Shanty 2 Chic.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

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