Tryed Side Table

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 01/04/2010 - 23:00
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Following numerous requests, here are plans for the Hyde Side Table. This plan matches the plans for the Tryde Coffee Table and the Tryde Console Table. Made of solid wood in a rustic planked design, you will be shocked at just how beautiful 2x4s can be. This sturdy easy to build end table will add character and a natural aspect to your living space. Also can be used as a nightstand. Features sturdy solid wood legs and a large top with breadboard ends.



Shopping List

1 – 4×4 Post, 8 feet long 1 – 1×4, 8 feet long 2 – 2×4, stud length or 8 feet long

Common Materials
2 1/2 inch screws
120 grit sandpaper
wood conditioner
paint brush
Cut List

A) 4 – 4×4 Posts @ 22 1/2” (Legs) B) 4 – 1×4 @ 2 1/4″ (Spacers) C) 2 – 1×4 @ 16 1/2″ (Top Leg Supports) D) 4 – 1×4 @ 12″ (Apron) E) 2 – 2×4 @ 21″ (Breadboard Ends) F) 6 – 2×4 @ 14″ (Tabletop Pieces)

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Cut all your boards, except you may wish to cut the tabletop boards after taking an exact measurment of your table in step 7. Make sure you get nice straight cuts. Either use a miter saw, chop saw, or mark your boards with a square and cut with a handheld saw. Predrill all of your screw holes with a countersink bit. Before attaching any boards, mark where the attaching board will fit. Always use glue. Use 2 1/2″ screws unless otherwise directed. Take a square of the project after each step (see HOW-TO section). Work on a clean level surface.


Step 1

1. Spacers. Fasten the spacers to the legs, as shown above. Notice how the spacers will all be placed in different positions depending on the leg postion. Take note of this as you fasten the spacers to the legs.

Step 2

2. Top Leg Support. Attach the top leg support as shown above. Use the meausrements to guide you. Also make sure you screw into the spacer and the legs.

Step 3

3. Aprons. Attach the side aprons as shown above in green. Keep top edges flush.

Step 4

4. Aprons. Attach the remaining aprons as shown above. Keep top edges flush.

Step 5

Step 6

6. Tabletop Pieces. Attach the tabletop pieces as shown above. Keep the gaps between the boards minimal. If you are having a problem with the gaps, add a tabletop support piece as done in the Hyde Console Table, step 5, and attach the tabletop pieces from underneath.

Step 7

7. Toenailing. Make sure you secure the ends of the tabletop pieces to the breadboard ends as shown above. Screw at an angle from the tabletop pieces into the breadboard ends.


OweEng2 (not verified)

Tue, 01/05/2010 - 03:57

I really enjoy your articles, learned many things about this stuff. I hope other writers can step in and help out more by making informative articles like this. Keep uo the good work!

lexiis (not verified)

Tue, 01/05/2010 - 05:49

I have to say, I am sooo happy I came across your blog! Your plans look amazing and I have always love pottery barn furniture but never their prices! I can't wait to start on one of these projects!

laugh like a s… (not verified)

Sat, 01/16/2010 - 04:42

Ana, if your legs need to be cut from the 8' long 4"x4", but they need to be 28 1/2", wouldn't you need more than 8'? 8' will get you 4x24" pieces. Or am I missing something?

Ana White (not verified)

Sat, 01/16/2010 - 20:16

Hi Laugh Like a Serenade,

The correct cut should be 22 1/2". I made a typo that I have corrected. I am so sorry. You should definetly be able to get 4 out of a 4x4 8' Post.

Thank you so much for catching this.


Jennifer (not verified)

Tue, 01/26/2010 - 12:20

Ana, we are trying to build this table... but have run into a huge snag. The breadboard ends are cut at an exact 21 inches, but when we laid the table top pieces in... no gaps whatsoever, they stick out farther than the breadboards ends are long. Hubby says that its because our 2x4s are just slightly bigger than the actual 3.5 inches wide. Is this common? I am not sure how I would have prevented this from the start...

Bananas4Bargains (not verified)

Mon, 03/08/2010 - 10:14

My husband and I found your blog a few weeks ago and I fell in love. We made the Hyde side table yesterday as our first project, now I just have to decide what color/stain I want it to be. I am always looking for a new way to save money and this is just so unique, attainable, and easy that it's changed our whole way of thinking about paying someone else to do the work. You are helping so many people with this!

Pygmy Princess (not verified)

Sat, 03/13/2010 - 04:29

Hi Ana,
This site is amazing... been addicted since stumbling on it a few weeks ago! I HATE to be the spelling police but thought that I should point out that its "Tried" in "Tried and True" as opposed to "Tryed"... thought that might help. Keep up the incredible work... you're raising an army of builders out there!

Jessica M (not verified)

Wed, 03/17/2010 - 10:38

I went to Lowes today and got the wood for this project. I showed a print-out of your websit to the men working there, and you wouldn't believe how excited a group of tough men were about your site. Honestly, they made copies of my print out and were calling their wives already. LOL.

I am going to my father in laws house tonight and he is going to help me make this. :) I am so excited, thank you for doing what you do!

hide those holes (not verified)

Fri, 03/26/2010 - 09:31

are you screwing in from the top on all the boards? if so, how are the screw holes hidden so well on stained pieces? I know there is so-called "stainable" wood putty out there, but have not heard anyone haivng much sucess with it . . . thanks.

Bananas4Bargains (not verified)

Sat, 03/27/2010 - 03:24

I can only speak from our experience but we drilled through the top on both the breadboard ends and the middle pieces. I knew the stainable putty would create little screwhead-sized circles after the holes were filled and stained but I kind of like that look. We use the Elmer's stainable putty and have done two projects with it now and I like it. It does take on a little bit of the color of the stain. The filled holes are only noticeable close up, not really from a distance. Seems like the lighter we've stained things the more they show.

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