Rustic Modern Platform Bed Frame with Headboard (All Bed Sizes)

diy rustic modern bed frame
Difficulty
Intermediate
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The classic modern platform bed goes rustic when you build it yourself using lumber.  This beautiful, solid wood bed, has a modern form combined with rustic wood.  

Free step by step plans include shopping list, cut list, diagrams and lots of reader submitted photos.  By Ana-White.com

Reader submitted photo

diy rustic modern platform bed frame

We took a modern silhouette and built it using 2x lumber... and this is how it turned out!

I love the combination of rustic materials in a modern shape.  
 

Free Plans to Build Your Own Rustic Modern Platform Bed

This bed turned out so well, we had to share the plans in all mattress sizes for free!  You'll love this beginner friendly design that creates amazing results!

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Rustic Modern 2x6 Platform Bed

Dimensions
diy rustic modern platform bed frame free plans
Dimensions shown above - queen size in diagram

Preparation

Shopping List

Twin Shopping List - 38x75

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 5 feet long or desired length of headboard
  • 4 - 2x2 furring strips @ 8 feet long
  • 3 - 2x6 @ stud length or 8'
  • 3 - 2x4 @ stud length or 8'
  • 5 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1-1/4" brad nails
  • 50 - 2-1/2" long self tapping star bit screws
  • wood glue
  • 120 grit sandpaper 

Full Shopping List - 54x75

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 6 feet long or desired length of headboard
  • 4 - 2x2 furring strips @ 8 feet long
  • 3 - 2x6 @ stud length or 8'
  • 4 - 2x4 @ stud length or 8'
  • 5 - 1x4 @ 10 feet long (slats)
  • 1-1/4" brad nails
  • 60 - 2-1/2" long self tapping star bit screws
  • wood glue
  • 120 grit sandpaper 

Queen Shopping List - 60x80

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long or desired length of headboard
  • 5 - 2x2 furring strips @ 8 feet long
  • 3 - 2x6 @ stud length or 8'
  • 4 - 2x4 @ stud length or 8'
  • 5 - 1x4 @ 10 feet long (slats)
  • 1-1/4" brad nails
  • 60 - 2-1/2" long self tapping star bit screws
  • wood glue
  • 120 grit sandpaper 

King (Standard) Shopping List - 76x80

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long or desired length of headboard
  • 5 - 2x2 furring strips @ 8 feet long
  • 3 - 2x6 @ stud length or 8'
  • 4 - 2x4 @ stud length or 8'
  • 10 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long (slats)
  • 1-1/4" brad nails
  • 60 - 2-1/2" long self tapping star bit screws
  • wood glue
  • 120 grit sandpaper 

King (California) Shopping List - 72x84

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long or desired length of headboard
  • 5 - 2x2 furring strips @ 8 feet long
  • 3 - 2x6 @ stud length or 8'
  • 4 - 2x4 @ stud length or 8'
  • 11 - 1x4 @ 6 feet long (slats)
  • 1-1/4" brad nails
  • 60 - 2-1/2" long self tapping star bit screws
  • wood glue
  • 120 grit sandpaper 
Cut List

Twin Cut List - 38x75

HEADBOARD

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 60" or desired length of headboard
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 60"
  • 3 - 2x2 @ 31-1/2"

SIDERAILS/FOOTBOARD

  • 2 - 2x6 @ 75"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 75"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 41"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 45"

SLAT SYSTEM

  • 2- 2x2 @ 75"
  • 10 - 1x4 @ 38" (for 4" gaps in between slats - check with your mattress to make sure this is sufficient)
  • 2 - 2x4 or 2x6 @ 20" (both ends cut at 45 degrees, long point to long point measurement)
  • no center 2x4 needed for twin size

Full Cut List - 54x75

HEADBOARD

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 72" or desired length of headboard
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 72"
  • 3 - 2x2 @ 31-1/2"

SIDERAILS/FOOTBOARD

  • 2 - 2x6 @ 75"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 75"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 57"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 61"

SLAT SYSTEM

  • 2- 2x2 @ 75"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 75"
  • 10 - 1x4 @ 54" (for 4" gaps in between slats - check with your mattress to make sure this is sufficient)
  • 2 - 2x4 or 2x6 @ 20" (both ends cut at 45 degrees, long point to long point measurement)

Queen Cut List - 60x80

HEADBOARD

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 79" or desired length of headboard
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 79"
  • 5 - 2x2 @ 31-1/2"

SIDERAILS/FOOTBOARD

  • 2 - 2x6 @ 80"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 63"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 67"

SLAT SYSTEM

  • 2- 2x2 @ 80"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 80"
  • 11 - 1x4 @ 60" (for 4" gaps in between slats - check with your mattress to make sure this is sufficient)
  • 2 - 2x4 or 2x6 @ 20" (both ends cut at 45 degrees, long point to long point measurement)

King (Standard) Cut List - 76x80

HEADBOARD

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 96" or desired length of headboard
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 96"
  • 6 - 2x2 @ 31-1/2"

SIDERAILS/FOOTBOARD

  • 2 - 2x6 @ 80"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 79"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 83"

SLAT SYSTEM

  • 2- 2x2 @ 80"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 80"
  • 11 - 1x4 @ 76" (for 4" gaps in between slats - check with your mattress to make sure this is sufficient)
  • 2 - 2x4 or 2x6 @ 20" (both ends cut at 45 degrees, long point to long point measurement)

King (California) Cut List - 72x84

HEADBOARD

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 96" or desired length of headboard
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 96"
  • 6 - 2x2 @ 31-1/2"

SIDERAILS/FOOTBOARD

  • 2 - 2x6 @ 84"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 84"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 75"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 79"

SLAT SYSTEM

  • 2- 2x2 @ 84"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 84"
  • 11 - 1x4 @ 72" (for 4" gaps in between slats - check with your mattress to make sure this is sufficient)
  • 2 - 2x4 or 2x6 @ 20" (both ends cut at 45 degrees, long point to long point measurement)

Tools
Tape Measure
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Headboard

Headboard can be easily modified in size by just extending the length of the 1x6s, or by adding more rows of 1x6 boards.

Cut the 1x6s with a compound miter saw or chop saw.

Lay out the 1x6 boards on a flat level surface.  Attach the top 2x2 to the top.

Attach the vertical supports on ends, and then spaced out.

Prefinish the headboard.

Step 2

Siderails and Footboard

Attach the 2x4s on top of the 2x6s to create the siderails and footboard.

All edges are flush to the insides.

Footboard 2x4 overextends the 2x6 by 2" on each end.

Prefinish the siderails and footboard.

Step 3

In the room, use the long screws to attach the footboard to the siderails.

Then attach the siderails to the headboard and set in place.

Step 4

To keep the bed from racking, attach the 45 degree cross bracing at the bottom.  You can also attach at the headboard for additional support.

Then add the 2x2 cleats.

For full size or larger, add the center 2x4 support, so the top edge is at the same height as the top edge of the 2x2s.  

For additional support, center "legs" can be screwed to the center 2x4 to support the center of the bed.

Step 5

Layout the slats on the cleats, spacing about 4" apart.  Use the 1-1/4" nails to tack down.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

AzAdventurer

Mon, 09/12/2016 - 11:19

Hi Anna,

Thanks for the awesome plans, I updated my brag post with more details, but for some reason even after saving it several times, I don't see the changes reflect, I was wondering if you need to do something on your end to push the updates. I'm sure you're super busy, but thanks. 

Also, what do you use for creating your plans and the pictures with the cuts, measurements and pocket hole details?

Ditti

Ana White

Mon, 09/12/2016 - 12:54

Hi, I am so sorry you are having brag post issues.  It has to do with either the site caching or the browser caching.  If you reset your browser cache, it should show up pretty quickly.

 

I use sketchup - it is free for personal use and easy to learn.

 

Thank you for bragging!  great project! Ana

braxtonjay

Thu, 03/01/2018 - 14:08

If a standard Queen is 60"x80", based on the dimensions in your plan, does a mattress fit into the bed, or sit slightly on top?

 

I plan on building this frame this weekend, and just want to make sure I'm not overlooking anything. I want my mattress to fit into the frame.

username.

Fri, 03/02/2018 - 19:22

Hey man I actually just built the bed, and I myself was wondering how that made sense also. Then after looking at the other people who have made the bed I could tell that the slats are actually flush with the edges. So the top is completely flush, meaning it would sit on and not in. I though, am wanting it to actually sit in the bed frame a little, so I may deviate a little, as I already have with a few things. 

 

Hope this helps 

ohanzee6

Sat, 08/24/2019 - 11:39

Hi Ana,

Is it possible to complete this project for a king size bed? I wasn't sure if there were constraints in the length of 2x6 you could get from local hardware stores. Thank you for the help!

Dana_1027

Mon, 04/19/2021 - 18:52

I am wondering if anyone has converted this to a king size? I am new to building and untrusting to try to do it myself. I'm not sure if there are limited length on this size wood? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

JonBowman

Sat, 11/13/2021 - 00:09

Question..don't know if I missed something in the text of the plans. Why aren't all the boards in the headboard 2x6?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!