Classic Storage Wall Side Base Units

Difficulty

Intermediate

All the beauty and functionality of expensive built-ins, but none of the cost or limitations. Build this base cabinet to keep your media center both beautiful and organized. Features optional shelf and pullout drawer, two doors, and simple moulding details. Works with the rest of the Classic Storage Collection.

Collections

Classic Collection

Pn For Later!

Dimensions

24" Wide x 25" Deep x 30" High

Preparation

Shopping List

1 Sheet of 3/4″ MDF or Plywood, cut into 23 1/2″ Strips, 8′ long

1 – 1×6 (for the optional pull out drawer)

1 Sheet of 3/8″ MDF or Plywood for backs and doors

1 – 1×2

1- 1×3 (you will only need 24″)

at least 24″ of 2 1/2″ high base moulding

2 – Sets of either butterfly hinges or Face Frame Euro Hinges

2 – Pulls or Knobs

4 - Shelf Pins

21″ Undermount Drawer Slides if you are building pullout drawers.

Edge Banding (If you are staining the project)

Common Materials

1 1/4 inch screws

2 inch screws

1 1/4 inch finish nails

2 inch finish nails

Elmer's Wood Glue

Elmer's Wood Filler

120 grit sandpaper

primer

wood conditioner

paint

paint brush

Cut List

A) 2 – 1×24 @ 29 1/4″ (Sides)

B) 1 – 1×24 @ 22 1/2″ (Bottom)

C) 2 – 1×24 @ 24″ (Top)

D) 1- 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 24″ x 30″ (Back)

E) 1- 1×3 @ 24″ (Bottom Trim)

F) 2 – 1×2 @ 24″ (Top Trim and Top Edge Trim)

G) 2 – 1×2 @ 25 1/4″ (Side Trim)

H) 1 - 1x 24 @ 22 1/2″ (Shelves) Optional Base Moulding, 2 1/2″ overall height, 24″ Long Door Cut List – Recommend measuring the opening in the drawer and building the drawer 1/4″ smaller thean the overall opening. Remember that the door will cover the middle partitions, as shown in the diagrams. These dimensions give are the ideal door dimensions.

I) 2 – 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 10 1/4″ x 25″ (Backs of Doors)

J) 4 – 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 1 1/2″ x 10 1/4″ (Rails on the Doors)

K) 4 – 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 1 1/2″ x 22″ (Stiles on the Doors) Optional Pull Out Drawer Cut List – Again, measure your opening and build your drawer to fit. These measurements are the ideal measurements.

L) 1 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF @ 17 1/2″ x 22″ (Bottom of pull out drawer)

M) 2- 1×6 @ 22″ (Sides)

N) 2 – 1×6 @ 19″ (Front and Back)

Tools

General Instructions

Cut your 3/4″ Plywood or MDF into strips 23 1/2″ wide by 8′ long. These strips become 1×24 boards. From 2 of the 1×24 boards, cut the the top and a shelf, and the bottom and a shelf. Then cut the remaining sides and middle partitions out of a third 1×24. You will have one 1×24 leftover for future projects. Work on a clean level surface. You can fasten with nails or screws, depending on your tools and the use of this piece. Screws will hold better, nails are easier. My general rule is screw anything that will be “used” like chairs and benches, and nail sedentary pieces like bookcases and hutches. I will leave this up to you. If you are screwing, make sure you predrill and countersink your screws. If you are using MDF, avoid fastening within 1″ of the edge of the MDF. Do not use wood screws on MDF. Wood screws do not have a straight shaft and will split your MDF. I have had luck with drywall screws (after all, drywall is very similar to MDF). Make sure you predrill the entire distance of the screws. It’s going to screeech, so wear hearing protection. And glue, glue, glue. My favorite option is to screw the “box” together, and then use finish nails to add the frame. That way the frame does not have blemishes, but the piece is built sturdy. Make sure you take a square of the project after each step. Measure and mark out any joints before fastening. Be safe, have fun.

Instructions

Step 1

Build the box. Start by fastening the bottom to the sides. Make note that the top of the bottom is 2 1/2″ high, so there will be a 1 3/4″ clearance under the bottom shelf. Then add the top, shown in purple, fastening to the sides. Use 2″ fasteners.

Step 2

Back. TAKE A SQUARE of the project (see HOW-TO section). Then fasten the 3/8″ plywood to the back, as shown above. You can use 1 1/4″ fasteners.

Step 3

Footer. TAKE A SQUARE. Then add the footer to the front, as shown above. Use the 2″ fasteners.

Step 4

Top Trim. Again, make sure everything is square. Then fasten the top trim in place, as shown above. Keep outside edges flush. Use the 2″ fasteners.

Step 5

Step 6

Side Trim. Fasten the side trim, as shown above. Keep outside edges flush. Use the 2″ fasteners.

Step 7

Shelves. Determine where the shelf will be placed and mark the bottom edge with a square. Then drill two holes 1″ from the ends with a 1/4″ bit, 1/2″ deep. You can make sure you are only drilling 1/2″ deep by setting the drill bit in your drill so only 1/2″ is exposed. Insert the shelf pins and add your shelf. You can move your shelf at any time.
If you are building with A1 plywood, you will need to finish the front shelf edge with edge banding. See the HOW-TO section for a post on choosing your wood that talks about Edge Banding. Don’t be intimidated by edge banding. It’s cheap and easy and looks great – the odds are your kitchen cabinets are covered in it!

Step 8

Doors. Dryfit the 3/8″ plywood backs into the base unit. Make sure there is about 1/8″ gap around the door. Check to make sure the type of hinges you choose will als fit in the door. Trim the back if necessary. Then use 5/8 staples or brad nails and glue and clamps to add the rails to the tops and bottoms of the doors, keeping outside edges flush.

Step 9

Stiles on Doors. Add the stiles to the doors as shown above, using the directions in step 8. When the doors are finished, lay flat (you can stack) and then rest a piece of plywood on top, and then a heavy object. Let dry.

Step 10

Base Moulding. If you would like to dress up your base unit, add the base moulding to the foot of the cabinet. Use the 1 1/4″ fasteners.

Step 11

Pull Out Drawers. You might as well build the pullout drawers, because you will have a perfect sized scrap piece leftover. You will need to cut it to the size above. Then fasten the sides, the 1×6 boards cut at 22″ to the sides of the bottom.

Step 12

Face and Back of the Pull-Out Drawer. Notch out the front of the face as shown above. Then fasten to the sides and the bottom, as shown above. Use the bottom mount drawer slides to attach the drawers to the base of the cabinet.

Project Type

Desk, Desk Systems and Project Table Plans

Media and Entertainment Centers

Room

Storage Solutions

Craftroom

Style

Comments

Leigh (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 00:48

Thank you for posting this! I

Thank you for posting this! I want to make some of these cabinets and turn it into the base of a desk in my kitchen. If I am going to paint them, what should I use for the top of the desk? Plywood? MDF?

Thank you again, can't wait to get building.

Moose (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 04:05

You're the best Ana!

You're the best Ana! Remember to take some time for yourself occasionally...even if that means you dont post on the blog for a few days.

Renee (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 04:43

Thank you so much for posting

Thank you so much for posting these plans! I've had my eye on Logan for a long time, but can't stomach paying PB's price :( Now it's looking like I might actually be able to get my living room organized :)

Thank you! Thank you! The wheels in my head are already turning as to the configuration of Logan units I need to house all our stuff :)

Nancy_Drew (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 04:44

We found you through

We found you through Shanty2Chic and we love your site!!!

I, like Leigh, am looking for cabinets with a desk for my kitchen. This is a great start. Thanks for all the ideas!

Fitness Journey (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 04:45

Ana!! You are amazing!! I

Ana!! You are amazing!! I only discovered your blog recently (like 1.5 wks ago) and can not stop looking at it!! This is my fav website!! Do you think there is a chance that you will be posting plans for the Logan Modular Small Wall Unit, you know, the unit in the photo at the top of your post, with the glass doors?

I appreciate all the time you put in to your blog. Remember to take some time for yourself! :)

Andrea (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 05:09

I want you to know that every

I want you to know that every time I see the little "Knock of Wood" in bold in my google reader, it is like Christmas! Thank you so much for all the time I know this takes! You're a rock star. :)
~Andrea

Carol Anne (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 05:44

I found you through Young

I found you through Young House Love, and I absolutely ADORE your blog! My hubby and I just moved into our first house from an apartment, so we have no furniture and no money! hehe This is a perfect solution! When the dust settles and we can start on projects, I'll be sure to share photos! Thank you for all your hard work and good luck with HGTV!

Fitness Journey (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 05:45

OMG I need to post again.

OMG I need to post again. Are those bases with doors the same on both photos? The media unit and the small wall unit? It looks like they are!

kira (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 06:11

Thank you so much for all the

Thank you so much for all the hard work you put into this site! my husband & i are so excited to start some projects (once the tax return comes that is ... lol). Thank you, thank you, thank you! :)

Juls (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 06:28

In RE: to what to do with all

In RE: to what to do with all the furniture, You could Auction or sell it for Charity, Or sell it to get more wood for future endeavors.

Lea (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 06:59

I am so glad I found your

I am so glad I found your blog, very inspiring, I would just LOVE to be able to do what you do, sounds like fun and what a sense of accomplishment to build your own furniture.
I do have a question/request; for someone like me who has never built ANYTHING, is there a way you could tell us when you post the materials the approximate cost of each item and also the tools that we would need. I don't think I have even one tool right now that would allow me to build my own furniture. VERY NOVICE I tell ya! And I think that if we could get a break down of the cost we could decide if it is something that we could even afford to build, versus going out to buy it all and being shocked by the price. I know you only build affordable things but everyone has a different budget and this way we can plan and save or go out and buy. I know you are super swamped and busy, these are only suggestions that maybe you could work in in the future, I know that I would love to see it and I think others would too. I hope you get to be on the Design Star and THANKS so much for offering a blog like this, I LOVE IT!!!

Laurie (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 07:57

Since you live in Alaska,

Since you live in Alaska, shipping the winning furniture to the States would be very expensive. I think you should list every charity within driving distance to where you live that would accept furniture, and the winner of the giveaway could get to pick which charity or needy family it gets donated to. That way the furniture doesn't get wasted and the "winner" gets to have a part and you've done a good deed! Everyone wins.

Ana White (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 08:25

Hi Everyone! If you are

Hi Everyone! If you are looking for an office system, you are in luck! I decided I need an office, so you can expect the desk and hutch plans to match this collection shortly. I would be careful about what you use for a tabletop. MDF is good, and you could get away with A1 plywood if you finished it correctly . . . as in lots of sanding! You could alos purchase those premade tabletops. They work great and are cheap.

I am so sorry but I will not be posting approximate prices anymore. Because of the great difference in prices throughout my reader base, it is impossible for me to make a good recommendation. I have had numerous emails of people having an expectation, and the price being different where they live, and the readers being upset. I would head over to you hardware store with a notebook and write down the prices of plywood, boards, and other supplies, and keep this list handy for future reference.

The Logan collection is very deep. This means more wood, and that means more expensive. Also, whenever you can paint over stain, that is going to save you tons.

Ana

Jennifer (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 08:34

I love that you think so much

I love that you think so much of yoru readers..."You probably already built the media base from yesterday..." Ha! Sadly, I don't move that fast- but I love that you think we do. Don't be so hard on yourself about not posting fast enough, I am just thrilled I have found you as a resource...Don't Burn Out!!! I'm thinking that I will sloooowly be building the logan set over the next few months (years?) My tv isn't nearly so large, so I may have to figure out a way to modify it a little. (If I could afford a tv that big, with a living room large enough to put it in, I might just have enough to spring for the actually pottery barn furniture.) Thanks so much for posting- you're great.

Jennifer (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 08:39

Back again- just saw you are

Back again- just saw you are adding office furniture to the list! LOVE IT!!! I think you are reading my mind. I have been wanting a desk, and have been trying to figure out a way to build one, maybe using a piece of inexpensive ikea butcher block as a top....I will stay tuned!

Crystal (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 13:22

I check your blog everyday

I check your blog everyday for new items, but would be fine with a weekly post! ha, like my opinion matters...
but I wanted to thank you for sharing your talent and I cant wait to build some furniture for our house. I plan to start with the farmhouse bed and move on to media stuff.
If you are going to make furniture for a web show, you should then sell it on ebay or Craigs List. People will buy it! I would...

Braden and Melanie (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 17:07

I cannot explain how happy I

I cannot explain how happy I am that you are going to make plans for the desk. I have wanted this desk system since I was in highschool. I have been searching for something similar to no avail for months, and the day that I almomst gave up and bought posted the logan base and gave me hope again! Thank you Thank you Thank you!

Amanda (not verified)

Fri, 01/22/2010 - 10:07

Great idea! I've been

Great idea! I've been wanting to build something like this in my library (the first picture) so I can hardly wait for all the rest of the plans! Thanks so much!

tinav307 (not verified)

Tue, 01/26/2010 - 08:51

Ok so I am going to try to

Ok so I am going to try to build this logan 24" base and am trying to understand the plans so I can go buy mdf. I am not sure if I am understanding correctly but you say to cut the 3/4 inch mdf 23 1/2 inchs wide and 8' long and you say you get 4 strips, if mdf is 4x8 my calculations aren't adding up. Does that mean in the original lumber list it should have been 2 sheets of 3/4" mdf? I am somewhat new to building and this will be the biggest project i have taken on so I could be reading wrong.
Thanks again for your site and I can't wait to build all kinds of things from it. Are you going to post the desk plans too? thanks Tina

tinav307 (not verified)

Tue, 01/26/2010 - 09:12

Ok so I think I get it. The

Ok so I think I get it. The 23 1/2 strips should be 4' long not 8', is that right?

Ana White (not verified)

Thu, 01/28/2010 - 08:04

I would generally cut your

I would generally cut your strips the longer way because that gives you more opportunities to use your boards. And sometime you may need a board longer than 48"

bride (not verified)

Sun, 02/07/2010 - 16:04

OMG...I just found your site

OMG...I just found your site a week ago and I am building so much! I started with the farmhouse bed. I'm working on the Logan center now. I do have a question though! What happens if you use your "check for square" tip and you find out it is not square?? I am having a major problem getting these to be square and I keep fiddling with them, but I always get off just a tad!

I also had a suggestion for you: I saw many of your readers wish they could estimate the cost of each unit, but you had stated in other comments that you didn't want to do that because the price varied so much from location to location. Why don't you post a link for each board or MDF sheet to the accompanying product on the Lowe's website or Home Depot website? Both sites have zip code calculators so a reader could punch in their zip code and they could see what the product would cost at their local store. It would provide a simple way for readers to estimate their cost before starting to build!

Also, it really helps me to have cut layouts of the MDF before going to the store. I saw that Shanty2Chic did this on the Cameron center, and I did the same thing on mine. Could I suggest posting cut layouts or linking to your readers who have created cut layouts and posted them online already so that new readers can benefit from it.

THANKS SO MUCH. This site is so fantastic and I've told everyone who will listen how awesome you/your site is!

Anonymous (not verified)

Mon, 02/08/2010 - 07:03

Bride-- my dad and I built

Bride-- my dad and I built the logan base this weekend and were having the same problem. For us, the solution was clamps, lots and lots of clamps, and an extra piece of wood to lay over the top to tap it to square witha hammer before putting in the screw/ finish nailing.

Mel (not verified)

Fri, 02/12/2010 - 07:53

Hi Ana,If you have time,

Hi Ana,
If you have time, could you also show us how to do the lower drawer bases and upper doors in the first photo? This would be great in my dining room...

Thanks so much!

Melissa (not verified)

Tue, 03/09/2010 - 15:27

Am I missing it, or is there

Am I missing it, or is there a post that shows how to do the accordian doors on the Television section in the photo on this post? I love your plans and I love that piece. 4 children give me a great desire to hide my TV!

orange sugar (not verified)

Fri, 03/12/2010 - 17:40

I am wondering the same thing

I am wondering the same thing as Melissa. I don't think you posted the plans for the piece that allows you to close off the TV. Or am I just missing it? I hope you will post those plans eventually. I have always wanted a cabinet where I could close off the TV but could never find one big enough.

The view from … (not verified)

Tue, 12/07/2010 - 04:30

[...] has plans on her site

[...] has plans on her site based on Pottery Barn’s Logan modular wall system that she calls the Classic Storage Wall Base and Classic Storage Wall Hutch. And the wonderful thing about building it yourself? You can [...]

Anonymous (not verified)

Wed, 03/09/2011 - 10:33

Bigger Bases

Would I need to change anything structurally if I wanted to build them 36 inches wide instead of 24 inches? I was thinking maybe something under the base and along the back?

college entran… (not verified)

Wed, 07/25/2012 - 00:10

An interior designer is

An interior designer is someone who conducts such projects. Interior design is a multifaceted profession that includes conceptual development, liaising with the stakeholders of a project and the management and execution of the design.
Regards,
http://www.collegeentranceessays.org

BeachyBabe

Tue, 12/29/2015 - 09:41

36" wide side units

Would this plan be adaptable for 36" side units instead of 24"? If so, do you already have plans for those changes, or would you be able to provide me with some suggestions to change the dimensions? Thank You!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.