1. Home
  2. Plan Catalog

Simple Bed [Full Size Bed Frame]

full size bed in mission style - plans by Ana White
|save this plan
Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

Build your own full size bed and save up to 90%!

This beautiful full size bed is solid wood, made from standard 2x4s and other dimensional lumber. It is cleverly put together with just basic woodworking tools. This rustic design can work in both a girls or boys room.  Step by step plans include diagrams and shopping and cut list.  Anyone can build it!

We also have this bed plan available in a twin size version.

Collections
Simple Bedroom Collection

Reader submitted photo by RLSAVARD 

 

Full Size Bed Plans

You can build your own full size bed and save a ton of money!  Our readers are spending under $100 on the bed WITH the bed frame (no box spring required).  We love that this bed is solid wood, so you can paint or stain it any color you choose. 

It's a solid, sturdy design, so it will last as long as you need it too.  This bed is perfect in a kids room or guest room. You don't need a box springs, and it fits a standard full size mattress.

Our free plans include step by step diagrams, shopping list and more!

If you build, please share a photo or two in a brag post.  It is most helpful and very exciting to see brag photos by you.

Dimensions
dimensions diagram for full size bed mission style plans
Simple Bed full size suitable for 75" x 54" mattress

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 6 feet long
  • 2 - 1x6 @ 10 feet long
  • 4 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 8 - 1x3 furring strips @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 4x4 @ 8 feet long (cut both headboard posts from this board)
  • 1 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long (cut both footboard posts from this board)
  • 4 - 2x6 @ stud length or 8 feet
  • 4 - 2x4 @ stud length or 8 feet
  • 1 - 1/4" long brad nails (a couple hundred)
  • 16 - 5" long self tapping wood screws OR 2-1/2" pocket hole screws if you have a Kreg Jig
  • 50 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws
Cut List

FULL SIZE HEADBOARD CUT LIST

  • 2 - 1x6 @ 54"
  • 7 - 1x4 @ 30"
  • 12 - 1x6 @ 3-1/2"
  • 4 - 1x6 @ 4-1/4" (measure and cut to fit)
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 45"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 63"

FULL SIZE FOOTBOARD CUT LIST

  • 3 - 1x6 @ 54"
  • 7 - 1x4 @ 22"
  • 12 - 1x6 @ 3-1/2"
  • 4 - 1x6 @ 4-1/4" (measure and cut to fit)
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 30-1/2"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 63"

FULL SIZE BED FRAME CUT LIST

  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80" - cleats
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 51" - center support, top
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 70-75" - measure and cut to fit - center support, middle
  • 2 - 2x6 @ ~75" - measure and cut to fit for best fit
  • 13 - 1x3 @ 23 - 3/4" - shorter slats 
  • 14 - 1x3 @ 31-3/4" - longer slats
Cutting Instructions

Cut longest boards first.

Preferred method of cutting is a miter saw or chop saw or similar.

You can also substitute a circular saw, but use a straight edge or guide to help you cut square cuts.

DO NOT cut tiny pieces - instead, cut tiny pieces from a larger piece, so you can safely clamp the board while cutting.

The 4x4s will require a larger saw to cut.  If you do not have a larger saw, flip the 4x4 over and cut from the back side to finish the cut.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

With many beds, you may wish to prefinish the headboard, footboard and siderails before assembly.  Then you can move into the room for final assembly and not have to paint or stain in the room.

Instructions

Step 1

Layout the pieces for the headboard panel.  Cut the end pieces to fit.

Glue and nail together with 1-1/4" brad nails.

NOTE: If you are using a Kreg Jig to join the panel to the legs in Step 2, carefully place nails so you can drill pocket holes (see next step) on the end 1x6 boards marked 4-1/4" long.

Step 2

Attach panel to the legs with either pocket holes (preferred) or 5" self tapping wood screws and glue.

Step 3

Attach 2x6 header with 2-1/2" screws and glue to the top of the headboard.

Step 4

Repeat steps to build footboard.

Add additional 1x6 trim to the inside of the footboard as this will be exposed in the final product.  Nail on with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

Step 5

Cut cleats and attach to footboard, flush to bottom of 1x6 panel.  

Then attach to headboard legs.  Spacer blocks from scrap wood can help elevate the cleats while you work (or use clamps).

Step 6

Since this bed is a full size, center support is recommended.

Attach a 2x4 close to the top with 2-1/2" screws, two per joint.

Step 7

Add siderails to the cleats.

Step 8

Measure and cut the center support.  Place as shown in the bed (this is done offset to conserve wood when cutting the slats)

Step 9

Cut slats and lay in bed.  You can nail down (will be harder to remove later) or screw down (screws take longer to install and are more expensive but will be easier to remove).  Use a 1-1/4" to 2" long fastener.  Do not use glue as it will be impossible to disassemble without damaging the bed. 

To conserve fastners and time, I often will just nail the sides down and leave the center floating on the slats.

Project Type
Beds and Bed Frames
Full Size Beds and Full Bed Frames
Room
Bedroom
Kids and Toys
Style
Cottage Style Furniture Plans
Children's and Kid's Room Furniture and Toy Plans
Rustic Furniture Plans

Comments

Kensey (not verified)

Mon, 02/15/2010 - 13:42

Do you have any suggestions or pointers for staining it after filling in the screw holes with putty? It just seems like they are way noticeable.

Ana White (not verified)

Tue, 02/16/2010 - 06:59

What you will need to do is either buy a good stainable wood filler, or use stain matched wood filler after you stain. Another options is to use wood plugs.

kirstin & jordan (not verified)

Tue, 02/16/2010 - 19:33

This is FABULOUS! We are needing to move our little one from a crib to a big boy bed, and this might be just the ticket.
We have a Friday Fun Find party (on Fridays, of course) and would love it if you'd link to this!

Rachel (not verified)

Sun, 02/21/2010 - 07:13

Wonderful. We have been waiting for this. Thank you so much. We actually want to do your "Simple Bunk Beds", but with the full on the bottom of the twin. I am wondering if the process is the same for build and attach. Wondering if you can suggest how to modify the ladder to work with the full underneith. Just wanted to check before I get started.

Callie (not verified)

Mon, 02/22/2010 - 10:50

Do you have the materials list for this project? I see the cut list--but I would like a list to go into the store with--so I don't forget anything :)! You are awesome, by the way!

Ashley (not verified)

Fri, 05/21/2010 - 05:27

Hi! I'm looking at putting a trundle under this bed, and I'm just wondering if I need to adjust the height to fit a trundle made of 1x8s (your plan Ana) under it or not. From the diagram it looks like the header leaves 10" clearance under the bed, but I'm new to building things so I just wanted to double check before I buy the materials to build it. Thanks!

Ana White (not verified)

Fri, 05/21/2010 - 06:21

You could use a 1x10 for the sides of the trundle, but the clearance is going to be very very tight (especially with caster wheels on). I would add just maybe an 1" to the legs on the daybed.

Mariah (not verified)

Wed, 05/26/2010 - 05:19

How difficult would it be to modify this to a queen size bed? I'm looking to do my first ever project and a queen bed is what I need. Thanks so much!

Becky (not verified)

Sat, 06/05/2010 - 18:57

I modified this bed to a queen, if I knew how to share pictures on here I would. I just figured out how much wider my queen bed was than a full, I think it was 6" and added that to every board that went that direction. Then for the side rails and cleats I had to add a couple of inches because my bed was also longer. We had to do 10 boards for the headboard and footboard. We left the measurements of the spacers the same in between and cut the ones on the end after it was assembled. Those were the only modifications necessary and it turned out great. This was my first building project. If you click on my name there is a picture of it on my blog. Good luck!

Paul (not verified)

Wed, 07/21/2010 - 06:25

Ann, Can you post the adjustments for the bed legs for a bed that is 6 inches higher at the head? So it would be at an angle. Is that even possible?

Becca (not verified)

Thu, 08/26/2010 - 14:54

I would love to do this as a queen but I know I would jumble all the numbers if I did it myself. It's their queen sized of this?

Ana White (not verified)

Tue, 08/31/2010 - 14:06

Hi Heather, this bed certainly could be built in a king. You may find it doesn't scale as perfectly - I would suggest following the dimension of the king Farmhouse bed, but just using the slats instead of the panel. Good luck on your bed!

Merrygold (not verified)

Tue, 09/14/2010 - 16:44

I'm thinking of building this as a Full size bunk bed. I might add an extra support to the center of the top bunk for extra support and let the slates lay across it.

ashlee (not verified)

Fri, 10/08/2010 - 07:30

ana you are amazing! thanks so much for these plans! now i just need a how to build your own house section:D or maybe a refrence book list:D

im not finding the "what it costs to build it" on most of these plans? am i missing it? or is it just on some?

Mahin (not verified)

Mon, 12/13/2010 - 07:56

Hi Ana, I'm half way through building this - I built the doll-sized farmhouse bed first as a test, and that turned out great! I'm worried about joining the cleats to the legs, though. I read all of the comments on the twin sized bed and I think that you mentioned lag bolts there and screwing at an angle through the cleats to the legs (toenailing), but there's only 5/8 ths of an inch to work with on this plan. Will that work? Am I missing something?
Also wanted to thank you for your site and for giving me and so many others the confidence to go out and buy wood and turn it into beautiful and functional things.

Liana (not verified)

Fri, 01/14/2011 - 06:31

I am planning on making this for my son's room. I want to pair it with the trundle plans you have on here but I didn't know if the deminsions for the simple bed were compatable to put the trundle under it. Feedback? Thanks! I love all your designs!

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 08/09/2011 - 05:09

Is there anyway to get a enlarged copy of the pictures for these plans, i cannot read the plans when they are printed out, the writing is too small, if i enlarge it they just get blurry? Thanks!

fk (not verified)

Mon, 10/17/2011 - 10:19

As I read the directions for the simple full bed, it doesn't tell you where to use the 1 1/4" or 2 1/2" pocket screws. Also further into the directions it calls for 4", 2 1/2",3 1/2" screws not on the shopping list, also 1 1/4" & 2" nails. Where do the 2" & 3" nails go? How do you attach the 2"x 4" tops on the head & foot boards I see no instructions for that.

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 10/17/2011 - 20:25

I was wondering the same thing. I'm doing a twin over full and I'm modifying the twin to be the same set up as the full as far as cleats and the bedroll slats are concerned (that way we are using all the same materials and plans for both beds) We also decided to modify (like another builder) by using all footboards and adding the difference into the top bunk legs. But, in reading BOTH sets of directions, the twin doesn't have a hardware list in the shopping list and the full has stuff in the shopping list that aren't in the instructions. So, I guess what I'm asking is...what is the right shopping list for hardware for both beds???

My husband and I are building this for our 4yo daughter for Christmas and looking for it to last at least through college. We figure when it's time to trek the top bunk to the dorm, we'll still have a bed at home for her during holidays or for guests. We are SO anxious to make it but want to make sure we have all the right parts instead of 50 million trips to Lowes.

Keep up the good work! It's even got my hubby thinking on making more and selling them. More power to him! Lol Being a full-time mom, working PT, and fixing/modifying/repairing or rebuilding all the stuff I already do is good enough for me. I think I might do the Laundry Shelves though or the Storage Bench though! Anything to make my life easier! :-D

Thanks again for the blog and any info on the hardware!!!

SabySmooth1

Thu, 10/27/2011 - 16:46

Ana, I LOVE this site! Thank you for all that you do! I am dreaming of having this bed as a King size in our bedroom. How do I do that? I'm a newbie! Thanks!!

cakemom

Mon, 03/16/2015 - 13:12

is there an alternative to the 1x6's? They are $7 a piece here even in pine and would greatly increase the estimated cost. Perhaps plywood cut and then a veneer edging added to hide it.

Noob Builder

Mon, 07/06/2015 - 07:37

Hi Ana,
What material do you recommend for this bed? I have a hard time finding 4x4 pine where I live, however 4x4 cedars are available from Lowes.. do you think it will work? And is it a good idea to mix the material (i.e. Cedar with Pine?) Thanks!!

Phil Shremshock

Sun, 08/16/2015 - 06:26

There are many ways to hide screw hole , one way is not to use screws at all but glue and use splines, dowels, or mortise and tenons. and for your bed rails use bedrail fasteners or bolts.

I will be adding a bed plan for a twin over full bunk beds with stairs and storage that I'm designing for a clients hunting/ mountain vacation cabin I just found this site when researching ideas for this project, and will share the plans once I finish seeing how no one seems to have done so on any site I've visited including my favorite of finewoodworking.com, of which I've been a member since 1982, yup before the internet and still have every copy of the magazine from then on . I love woodwork and blessed to do it as a living . Phil

pritamda

Sun, 08/23/2015 - 17:34

Awesome bed!, love it. But, cannot find the plan for twin bed, can you please direct me to the link. 

Also which model of kreg jig should I buy ?

Thanks.

Boomer8960

Sat, 03/12/2016 - 18:45

Can someone explain to me or maybe its just an error? Project calls for (7) 1x6x8. The cut list calls for a total of (8) 1x6x54.5" and (2) 1x6x75". My math and the offals I would have left does not jive. Should I just get some 1x6x10's to have less offal? Just want to make sure im thinking straight.

kluge9

Sun, 11/20/2016 - 15:49

I'm sure you've figured this out already, but I just ran into this problem as well when I made the cuts for the bed today.  1x6x10' would solve it but I was already done with the cuts when I realized.  Had to run and grab 2 more boards and luckily I had a 1x8 in the shed I just ripped down to size on the table saw.  Those are the only errors I've found.  Good luck, everyone!

Lhpspangz

Sun, 01/08/2017 - 18:35

Ana I have been following your builds for a while and almost all of them are DEAD ON. 

 

this time I didn't plan it out right before buying. 

 

Your shopping list suggests buying (7) 1x6x8 when in fact it needs to be (10) 1x6x8 

 

 4 at 54 1/2 for the headboard (end up with 4 pieces at 41 1/2" of waste)

4 at 54 1/2 for the footboard (end up with 41 1/2" of waste)

2 at  75 for the side rails 

 

I am sure this was a typo. Let me know that I'm not crazy. It's turning out great otherwise !!!

xzebra

Mon, 08/17/2020 - 12:40

Looking for help as to where exactly to place the screw holes for Step 2 using a Kreg?

"Attach panel to the legs with either pocket holes (preferred) or 5" self tapping wood screws and glue."

Any assistance, photos would be greatly appreciated.

Randall1955

Mon, 10/18/2021 - 15:52

Can I use these Paulin #8 x 2-1/2-inch Star Drive GRK RT Composite(TM) Trim Head Screw Climatek(TM) Coat instead of 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!