A modern style daybed, featuring a modern pattern on back and arms. Free easy step by step plans to save you money off West Elm furniture.

Preparation
3 - 2x3 @ 8 feet long
7 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
6 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
Use either pocket hole screw or regular screws
24 - 1x2 @ 12" (Sides of Rectangles)
9 - 1x2 @ 5 1/2" (Rectangle to Rectangle Joiners)
6 - 1x2 @ 4 1/4" (End Joiners)
24 - 1x2 @ 6 1/2" (Tops and Bottoms)
3 - 2x2 @ 75" (Back Top and Cleats)
2 - 2x3 @ 75" (Aprons)
4 - 2x2 @ 30" (Legs)
2 - 2x2 @ 39" (Arm Top)
2 - 2x3 @ 39" (Arm Aprons)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
You are probably wondering why in the H are we starting by building an H? Why not start by building the rectangles? Well, there's good reason (unless you own a Kreg Jig, and then you can do whatever the H you want - or rectangle for the matter).
Step 3
Step 7
Step 10
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
Leah
Thu, 08/11/2011 - 10:37
beautiful!
I love this~
I'm in the process of finishing a twin-sized headboard modeled after the community contributor (who are you?) who made an over-lapping squared daybed.
I beefed up one side panel and made it taller. I assume the same could be done with this!
If I may make a suggestion, paint the inside pieces first! Then assemble. It has cut down my finishing time tremendously~
(I plan on posting my plans as soon as I can access my sketch-up files again. Oh laptop, why hast thou died on me?)
April McCoid (not verified)
Thu, 08/11/2011 - 11:21
Dis-assembly
Ana,
You mentioned the fact that it will be difficult to get this thing through a doorway... and I wondered if maybe it could be assembled in such a way that it can be taken apart and put back together. Could you glue/screw each of the 3 sides without gluing them together at the corners so that the back and 2 sides are separate pieces without it being unstable? I would love to make this but it's scary to think that once it's in the room I'd have to demo the thing to get it back.
Also, do the pocket holes fill easily? Or is it really noticeable?
Thanks!
In reply to Dis-assembly by April McCoid (not verified)
Ana White
Thu, 08/11/2011 - 11:53
April, thank YOU for
April, thank YOU for mentioning this. There's two ways you could do this.
1) If you have a little space around your doorways, you will be able to stand the daybed on it's arm (so it's tall) and rotate the bed to get two legs through the doorway. Once you get two legs through, rotate the daybed until the entire daybed is in the room.
2) You guessed it, build back and arms separately, then assemble in the room.
Guest (not verified)
Fri, 08/12/2011 - 06:04
Love this! I am a big fan of
Love this! I am a big fan of daybeds. I like the detail that's added to this one.
Teresa A (not verified)
Sun, 08/14/2011 - 18:12
missing info
Thank you so much for this instruction guide - I'm in the middle of this project and notice there is no information for the spacers that connect the rectangles with the aprons -shown in step 4... well at least the information is missing from the cut list -just confirming they are 2 1/4" spacers? I guess I will just count how many are needed.....
Ana White
Sun, 08/14/2011 - 18:54
2 1/4" is correct - see step
2 1/4" is correct - see step 7. Just center the spacers on the rectangles, then attach to bed. Good luck, can't wait to see your daybed!
Guest (not verified)
Thu, 08/18/2011 - 10:06
Buying the wood
I love that you made plans for the new style west elm daybed, it's what I was planning on purchasing for one of my daughters. Now I can save a ton and learn something too. I have one question- where do you buy the sizes of wood for this project- I went to HD and they didn't have all the sizes. I live in Texas- the DFW area. Any suggestions? Do I need to go to a lumber type store? One more thing, may I ask how much this project cost you? I'm new to this but love your site! Thanks!
In reply to Buying the wood by Guest (not verified)
Ana White
Thu, 08/18/2011 - 17:49
Hi - it's the 2x3's right?
Hi - it's the 2x3's right? If you can't find them, go with a 2x4 :) Costs can vary depending on where you live and what type of wood you use, so can't give you exacts there. Good luck and welcome!
Guest (not verified)
Sat, 08/20/2011 - 11:48
is this to complex to convert
is this to complex to convert into a full size by adding the 15" on widths you always mention?
In reply to is this to complex to convert by Guest (not verified)
Ana White
Sat, 08/20/2011 - 12:26
Converting to Full Size
You might have to do a little math to figure out the arms, but yes, a twin is 39" wide and a full is 54" wide - so a 15" difference. Same lengths. I would use the same size rectangles (probably add one more to each arm) and just alter the rectangle/leg connector length to fit the new dimensions.
The most important part is to add the center legs - a full size bed needs extra support because your slats can't span 54" without support. I would just do a third "apron" running parallel to the front of the daybed, centered, from a 2x2, and attach legs from it. That way your slats are getting fully supported.
Good luck, would love to see a full daybed completed!