Master Closet System Drawers

Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build closet drawers with this free, simple, step by step tutorial.

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Remember back when I showed you how to build my Master Closet System?

The Closet

Still the best $200 bucks I've ever spent.
My closet really is one of those projects that you don't know how you got by before it.  The kind that save your time, your sanity, and maybe even your marriage.

Shoe Cubbies

And then I added the plans for the Shoe Cubby part.  Those shoe cubbies are super functional!  A must for any shoe lover.

Closet Drawers

Now today, I'll be showing you how to build my closet drawers.  They are super easy and add a great amount of functionality.  I put socks in one, underwear in one, and then tanks in the last.  Really works well for me - just stuff and forget about!  You can tell I'm all about speed and simplicity, or at least that's my best excuse for having an obvious lack of clothes hanging skills LOL!
Build to fit your space

Preparation

Shopping List

1x8 boards for drawer sides (you can use any width board)
1/4" plywood for drawer bottoms
Cheapo White Euro Drawer slides in matching width
Drawer Knob or Handle

Common Materials
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
Cut List

Cut to fit your drawers

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

For me the greatest opportunity to not get drawers right is #1 - not having your cabinet built square and #2 - not building to fit. Drawers are very precise, and I always recommend building to suit your project. Board widths can be off just a tiny bit, and that messes everything up.

So start by measuring the inside width of your closet.

Step 2

Now build your drawers to fit. My drawers don't even have a full face. I just built boxes and the slides and 1/2" gaps are visible on all four sides. It's a closet.

Step 3

Now this is where things can get a little confusing - installing the cabinet members.

First, figure where you want the bottom of your drawer to sit. For standard drawers, you'd want to add 1/8 to the top for clearance, and then the overall height of your drawer to the bottom of your drawer box. For my drawers, I added 1/2" because I wanted the 1/2" gap on the sides to match up with a 1/2" gap on the top.

Draw a line with a square so you know it's square to your cabinet. Do this on both sides. Then install the cabinet members so the long straight area is on the line you drew.

Do one cabinet member/drawer at a time, working your way from the top down.

Step 4

Easy step - attach drawer members to the drawer box. I love these slides so much because they cup the bottom corner of your drawer boxes, keeping the drawer bottom attached. Then you don't have to do fancy woodworking to put bottoms on drawers.

Step 5

Step 6

I ended up with a little space at the bottom. It's a perfect spot for a few more pairs of shoes!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

mmuldoon

Fri, 09/09/2011 - 11:35

Hey Ann,
I'm going to be doing all our closets this fall and winter, I was just wondering what kind of wood you used for your closet system. Also do you use the same wood in pretty much all your projects.
Thanks,
Matthew

ps. Love the site, has helped me to get into woodworking, and I'm loving it.

Ana White

Fri, 09/09/2011 - 12:35

Hi Mathew, thank you! Isn't woodworking just magical?

This closet system is built with cabinet grade plywood, thus the $200 price tag. I really wanted something that would last and last, and not fall apart after a few years.

If you were to make of the quality of closets you buy, you could get away with Particle Board, and spend under $100 - but I would never recommend particle board for drawers. My drawers are actually made from the leftover cabinet grade plywood ripped into 1x8 widths, but pine 1x8s would do the trick too.

You could probably get away with 1/2" plywood as well - but this will affect the cuts of your drawer so do some additional figuring.

Best of luck, thanks for reading!

Ana

Jackie (not verified)

Fri, 09/09/2011 - 11:50

Hi Ana- This is looking great!
I'm going to tackling a set of the apothecary cabinets this winter and I've been on the hunt for just the right hardware. I'm really liking the styling of these- where are they from?

Thanks for everything!

In reply to by Jackie (not verified)

Ana White

Fri, 09/09/2011 - 12:37

Hi Jackie, thank you for reading and liking my closet! It doesn't always have coordinated colors in it :) if you know what I mean heheh . . .

Anyway, the pulls are from the Martha Stewart Living Collection available at Home Depot. I LOVE them - they made a blah drawer look beautiful!

Best luck on your apothecary cabinet!

Amy Bouchard (not verified)

Sat, 09/10/2011 - 02:29

Anna,
Love the closet system. I cannot get the PDF page for the drawers to work, but the others do.
Just thought I'd let you know.
Keep up the great ideas!

CL2 (not verified)

Mon, 09/12/2011 - 09:01

This is exactly what I've been waiting for. A way to make a lot of cheap storage drawers. (I want to build a large cabinet with 10-15 shallow drawers for storing craft supplies.)Where did you get the drawer slides and, may I ask, how much did they cost? With that many drawers, I need to cheapest drawers slides possible. TIA

Indy69

Sun, 11/20/2016 - 16:32

See my pics and read my statement on how I built my closet.  It explains where I got my drawer slides.  I installed 16 soft-close easy glide drawer slides on Amazon for $120.  This included the rear attaching brackets that you slide on the back end of the slides and make installing them so much easier. 

 

Hope this helps.

BookladyDavina (not verified)

Wed, 03/28/2012 - 16:59

just wanted to let you know the PDF link for this project is broke. we're currently working on completely redoing our master bed/bath and the closets. snatching a bunch of your plans and coming up with a few of our own

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!