Kitchen Cabinet Sink Base 36 Full Overlay Face Frame

Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build your own kitchen cabinets!  Free plans to DIY standard sink base with full overlay doors and face frame.  As shown, built for about $100 using premium PureBond 3/4" Hardwood Oak plywood, hardwood face frame and doors.

3D Model to Download

With all kitchen plans, I'll be uploading 3D Models to Google 3D Warehouse in a Collection so you can download the models and design your own kitchens!  I've already added a few plans to the collection, more will be coming as I build and blog more plans.  This model is actually a 36" wide drawer/door base - it's the same as the sink base, but you just leave the drawer out and the back off as done in this plan.  I'll put together another plan for the 36" wide drawer/door base in a bit.

If anything is surprising us about building your own kitchen cabinets, it's just how easy it is!

Yep, that's DIY!  We used PureBond Formaldehyde Free Plywood for the cabinet box or carcase (thanks for helping me out with the spelling, I really cringed every time I called the box a carcass ... so morbid!), oak for the frame and doors.
We've got all the base cabinets done.  Once we got rolling, or rather once the plywood was ripped, construction was super fast.  Like twenty minutes a cabinet fast.  Like faster than assembling flat pack cabinets (Bonus - no piles of cardboard and styrofoam to throw away afterwards!).
It's the doors that take the time, but I'll talk about different door ideas later in this post and also in dedicated door building posts.
If there's one thing I want to leave you with, besides the plans to build this cabinet, it's that you CAN build your own kitchens! 

Special Thanks to PureBond

Special thanks to the kind folks over at PureBond for supplying our beautiful healthy plywood for these cabinets.  PureBond is also hosting a huge $100 Home Depot Gift Card Giveaway that anyone can enter every day in January 2012 with daily giveaways!  
Dimensions
Standard 36" wide sink base as shown in diagram.

Preparation

Shopping List

1 sheet 3/4" cabinet grade plywood, MDF or Melamine (shown built with PureBond Formaldehyde Free Plywood in Oak) ripped into strips 22 3/4" wide, 8 feet long (you will only need one strip, but you will have to buy a whole sheet to get the strip)- SAVE THE SCRAP STRIP!!!

1 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long or stud length
14 feet of 1x2 boards
2 feet of 1x3 boards
1x3 furring strips or scrap plywood for supports
Doors and Drawer Face not included in this plan
Cut List

2 - 3/4" plywood @ 22 3/4" wide x 31" long
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 22 3/4" wide x 34" long
3 - 1x2 @ 33"
2 - 1x2 @ 31"
1 - 1x3 @ 21"
2 - supports @ 34"
2 - supports @ 22"
2 - 2x4 @ 17 1/2"
2 - 2x4 @ 35 1/2"

Cutting Instructions

Rip plywood into strips 22 3/4" wide x 8 feet long. Save center scrap. Cross cut strips to create box pieces.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Please read this post before beginning any cabinet construction. It talks about general building techniques, how to modify, and other good stuff about cabinet building!

Build the base as shown in diagram. Plan ahead and drill pocket holes to attach base to underside of cabinet in later steps. Once base is built, set aside. Note that base is 1/2" less in width than cabinet to account for face frame overhang.

Step 2

Build the carcase as shown in diagram. Make sure you also drill 3/4" pocket holes along front edges for attaching face frames in later steps.

Step 3

We used scrap plywood strip for the back supports, but 1x3 or 1x4 boards can also be used. These supports add a ton of strength to the cabinet - especially since this is a sink base and is backless.

Step 4

The trick to face frames is clamping each joint, marking each joint, and having a flat level surface. Use glue and build with 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. NOTE: If your face frames are hardwood - recommended if you are attaching hinges to the face frame - then use fine threaded pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Step 6

These guys are for attaching the top plywood when all your cabinets are in place to support the countertop. They also provide corner support, keeping your cabinets square. We used scrap plywood pieces, but 1x3 or 1x4 boards would do the trick too.

Step 7

Once the carcase has been built, attach the base, flush to back and sides.

Step 8

We found the most time consuming part of building the cabinets was the doors. Here's the measurements but I'm going to save door construction for another post - so we can use the same building techniques regardless of the door size.

The drawer face is of course just a 1x8 ripped down to size.

Step 9

An alternative is to use a door building service. Because doors take such high abuse and are more likely to warp, could be a good idea to look into ordering doors unfinished. Doors also require more tools and know-how, and are the part that you see on your cabinets. They are also cheap to ship. 

The cabinet box cost us about $50 to build.  Ordering two doors will put us up to $90 - not bad for PureBond 3/4" plywood cabinets, built with glue and screws!  Very reasonable, especially if you are planning lots of open cabinetry up top (no doors = less $$$$).
 PS - Barker door has no idea who I am, they just are the least expensive door option I've found online.  I have never used them or worked with them but we are considering ordering doors from them for the second kitchen for fancier drawers and doors.

Would love to hear your thoughts on ordering doors!
Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Lady Goats

Tue, 01/10/2012 - 12:08

I have plans to reno my kitchen in the next 2 years, and I've seen easy plans... but you always amaze me with your ability to simplify things! I'm a lot less scared, now :-p

claydowling

Tue, 01/10/2012 - 18:27

Ana, unless I've mistaken those photos, the surface veneer is red oak, an open-pored wood. It tends not to look very nice painted unless you fill the pores, which is going to be a fair amount of labor.

Have you considered staining instead? If there's a color scheme you're looking for you can still tint the stain. Most paint stores will do that for you, and you can always tint a water based polyurethane on your own.

Ana White

Tue, 01/10/2012 - 15:50

Hi Amy, it depends on what type of farmhouse sink. I've seen people just cut this cabinet out to add an aprons sink, then I've also seen a squashed version of the cabinet under the sink. Maybe we should do an apron sink in the next kitchen? Either way, I plan to add plans for a base to support an apron sink.

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 01/10/2012 - 14:09

Great idea ordering the doors. While I was reading this (long before I reached Step 9) I was thinking that if I ever planned to build kitchen cabinets myself, I would definitely order the doors. I also like doors better than open cabinetry. You can hide all the mess you want behind them, and cleaning the grease and other kitchen dirt from the doors is much easier than separately from all the dishes and stuff on an open cabinet. Transparent doors are also an option for cabinets where the nicer dishes are kept.

Amanda

Tue, 01/10/2012 - 15:23

You can hinge that false door front, add a small basket and have a place to store sponges and other small items that live around the sink. Throw on a magnet and you have an easy way to keep it closed as well.

Brian Forbes Colgate (not verified)

Tue, 01/10/2012 - 16:23

Wonderful execution in these kitchen cabinets!

The PureBond site led me to bookcases, that I am going to do double-sided in my Mum's home, to separate the living and dining spaces in a 59-year-old bungalow. Bookcases on the living room side and china cabinet wall on the dining room side, with an archway by the inside dining room wall.

The kitchen needs to be re-done as well, and your cabinet plans will fit the bill with only a small amount of modification :-)

Thanks so much, as always, for all you share with us, Ana :-))

tnt

Tue, 01/10/2012 - 16:37

Are you really planning on painting the cabinets? It looks awesome the way it is. I would just stain it and put a varnish. Great job. Keep up the inspiration.

Cindy from Indiana (not verified)

Tue, 01/10/2012 - 16:41

Thank you so much for sharing this plan with us! I'm tucking it away for future reference. Looks awesome!

Jen B (not verified)

Tue, 01/10/2012 - 17:16

I am betting we should add 'yet' to that... ;-) Barker Doors doesn't know Ana White, YET..

I have my husband on board for building the cabinets, however I don't think I could get him to paint them..

How do you think it will look stained??

Brian Forbes Colgate (not verified)

Tue, 01/10/2012 - 18:14

FWIW, I like your doors better than any at the Barker site ...

Cher (not verified)

Tue, 01/10/2012 - 19:43

Fantastic! Love this idea.

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 01/10/2012 - 21:26

thanks for the plans - very encouraging! planning new house & I had already decided to do the doors & drawer fronts myself when I found your site. I was going to buy the carcases - the standard here in australia is a white melamine panel construction (16mm) - the panels are labelled as high moisture resistant & kitchen shops tend to show you a piece of board in a glass of water. unfortunately these are full of formaldehyde.
your plywood cabinets look stunning - and yes, I too would just lacquer or stain+lacquer. your plans make me wonder whether I should try a plywood prototype, I am a bit daunted by the face frames and how dificult they'll make fitting doors & drawers. we do not have formaldehyde free, but E0 standing for for low emissions is available. presumably it needs to be exteriour grade for moisture resistance?
my doors (and front for deep drawers) are going to be made simply from standard size pine (dressed all round 3x1), with an in-fill of v-joint pine lining boards (12mm) for a 'country look' with clear varnish. I've done it for our current kitchen: dowel joints for the frames (but I am sorely tempted to invest in a kreg jig for the new one), 12mm rebates cut with a router (and I cheat and round of the corners of my infills rather than chiseling out the corners of the rebate). drawer fronts for the shallower drawers are going to be plain bits of pine with breadboard ends the same width as the door styles for a bit of interest ....
looking forward to the next installments of your kitchens!!!

Anonymous Coward (not verified)

Wed, 01/11/2012 - 04:00

Definitely build a prototype or even two until you figure out what you are doing.

Make a couple of small face frame cabinets with the door you are planning and use them somewhere in the house or garage.

Anonymous Coward (not verified)

Wed, 01/11/2012 - 03:57

Ana, and anyone else planning to make painted cabinets.

Oak is not the best wood because of the grain. Takes a lot to hide it. Birch, even in the lower cost "spliced" grade, is less prep and sanding and does not cost more.

In some areas you may be able to get ash or alder plywood, probably special order. They both have fine grain and paint or stain very well.

Guest (not verified)

Wed, 01/11/2012 - 06:07

Good work but a word of caution to anyone about to tackle the same project with minimal experience. Build a few trial cabinets first. Maybe put them in your garage.

The hinges on the doors can be a little tricky.

LisaT (not verified)

Wed, 01/11/2012 - 06:59

Ana, your doors look great! We are building our own house and are making plans to move into our basement soon! So, thank you because I was looking for cheap, used kitchen cabinets for the basement, but reasonable ones are just that-cheaply made, very used, etc. Now, I think we can make our basement kitchen cabinets at a reasonable price and they'll fit perfectly. Plus, that kitchen will always get used later, too, so nice Ana-inspired cabinets will be great! We just needed the encouragement-thanks so much! I think we would just go ahead and make our own doors. You can go as cheap or expensive as you want, and as plain or personalized as you want, too. Beginners, don't forget the retired carpenter, cabinet builder, etc in your community that may be willing to help (teach) you with doors! They're a great resource and usually enjoy small jobs. Thanks, Ana!

Guest (not verified)

Wed, 01/11/2012 - 13:38

We had good luck with a company called "Reface Depot" for cabinet doors. We remodeled a big ugly linen cabinet - it looks fabulous now! The company had very reasonable prices and good service. Maybe there are better options now; our project was a couple years ago.

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 01/15/2012 - 12:26

Based on your design, it seems like you could put all your pocket holes for your face fraiming on the outside of the box. This would result in fewer holes inside and/or holes to fill. Holes on the outside will be covered by your next cabinet.

Ana White

Mon, 01/16/2012 - 17:32

What a brilliant idea! This also puts the pocket hole screw in the centers of the face frames. Thank you for commenting, we definitely will put pocket holes to the outsides here on out! Thank you everyone for taking your time to help us improve the cabinet plans.

Blair (not verified)

Thu, 01/19/2012 - 17:10

Having built cabinets and doors in the past, I would order the doors. Having proven to myself that I can do it, I would now save myself the trouble and buy them. Barker door is right down the street from me here in Oregon. My father-in-law ordered a drawer front from Barker with an edge profile to match some existing cabinets and it matched perfectly. Of course, a simple drawer front is different that a paneled door, but I wouldn't hesitate to order from them. I also like the drawer boxes they offer with dovetailed joints that are reasonably priced as well.

Calmly

Mon, 01/30/2012 - 11:38

Hi Anna, when will you be posting the kitchen cabinet door information? I am putting my plans together now to build my cabinets. I hope to begin in about two weeks. Any new kitchen cabinet post will be a great help. I want to do the ones in the picture above. Thanks in advance for you time and information.

MS Peg (not verified)

Mon, 03/05/2012 - 04:11

I looked through all the comments on this post, and didn't see anyone mention MDF doors. I recently remodeled our kitchen, using the existing cabinet boxes. I ordered the MDF doors and drawer fronts from a local shop for about 14.00 each. They also drilled holes on the backs for concealed hinges. The hinges were very easy to install.

trinavera

Mon, 04/23/2012 - 18:47

We just purchased a new home and wanted to make the wall cabinets, which are about 30 inches tall, can these plans be used for wall cabinets too, because this will save us LOADS if there's a way to make the wall cabinets.

claydowling

Tue, 04/24/2012 - 02:45

Trinavera,

There is a useful book called Simply Built Cabinets that will show you how to take this design and extend it to all of your cabinets. Most book stores with a home improvement section seem to have it, and I've found it at some home centers as well.

Respies (not verified)

Tue, 05/29/2012 - 14:23

What program do I use to get the plans to download from Google 3D? Just can't figure it out.

Craig Chapma (not verified)

Thu, 06/14/2012 - 08:03

Do you have the door plans yet?

JR Hill (not verified)

Sun, 08/12/2012 - 15:42

I went looking and looking for basic dimensions - thank you. The project is to build out the cabinetry in our log home. In addition to the challenges building against the uneven, outside walls, all the wood (Doug Fir and Ponderosa Pine) is being harvested, milled to size and dried on site. So far I'm planning to sand the frames smooth but leave the faces rough - like the interior walls. We'll see as that faze comes together.

Sophia Henkel (not verified)

Thu, 09/06/2012 - 14:28

Do you think you will create plans for build in ovens, microwaves, and other appliances? I would love to see plans for tall cabinets for a hot wall, or even a built in Fridge.

heathertheis

Sat, 01/12/2013 - 09:02

I''m thinking of redoing my moms' kitchen and was loving the look of this, but will you be doing the drawers and maybe some open cabinets? Also, I'm pretty much planning on doing custom up top ( diy custom- right?) so would you have any ideas for that? thank you so much for all you do- I come from a family of carpenters/ woodworkers that are stuck in the ice ages when it comes to " girls using power tools" and I'm so glad I can point to someone and say " well Ana can do it!"

robertmccarson

Mon, 02/11/2013 - 01:13

Ana -

You keep teasing us that you will post a tutorial on cabinet doors. When do you think you will do this. I really need to update the kitchen cabinets in our late mother's home to get it on the rental market.

lisajuanita

Tue, 04/30/2013 - 12:39

I'm currently in the process of putting together some of these cabinets but have hit a huge snag with the frames. The 1x2s keep splitting! All of my adjustments are correct and I can't possibly clamp any tighter. I have contacted kreg and they recommended beeswax on the screws then screwing in halfway pulling out and screwing in all the way again. Nothing works. Has anyone else had this problem? How did you solve it?

cmanmgm007

Tue, 05/09/2017 - 11:30

i just finished a few projects using cabinet doors i had to create my own doors, i used 7/16th project panels ripped to the size i needed 1x2 or 1x3 depending on what your are looking for and i placed the 1x2s on the project panels cut to a 45 degree angle run the inside and outside through a router to create a design on the edge and glued and stapled the project panels to the 1x3's 

cmanmgm007

Tue, 05/09/2017 - 11:25

i would just like to say thank you I have a 16 year old that has been getting into trouble and run away from home, worrried sick i just started woodworking projects to keep me from loosing it with her being missing (she has been found and is home safe). yes i changed ome of the plans to fit my style but if it had not been for your website and plans i would have gone crazy with worry.

 

Thank you so much

Handyman7124

Mon, 10/14/2019 - 18:37

I am planning to build cabinets like this. My question is where do I find the plans to make doors just like the ones in the picture at the beginning of this post?

Thank you SO much!

Tom

Handyman7124

Sat, 02/01/2020 - 15:38

I am excited to be starting this cabinet. My question is where do I find the plans for these exact doors? They are exactly what we are looking for.

Thank you!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!