Simple Modern Outdoor Sectional - Armless Piece with Corner/End Option

white cushions on a brown outdoor sectional farmhouse style feel
Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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Build your own outdoor sectional with 2x4s and customize your outdoor space.  These free plans are easy to follow and you won't need any special tools - just a drill and a saw!  

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Reader submitted photo by TammyLinskey

Start small... go big!  With this simple outdoor sectional piece plan, you can make an outdoor sectional as big (or small) as you need, as your budget or schedule allows.  Build a couple sectional pieces this year, add on next year - the options are endless.

Easy to Build Corner Piece

It's easier than ever to turn corners!  We've updated the plans so all you have to do is add an arm piece to the basic sectional piece to create corners for your sectional.

diagram of outdoor sectional piece with corner modification

Standard Outdoor Cushions

Each sectional piece (including the corner) fits a standard 25" x 25" deep seat cushion, up to 5" thick.  For corners, you may need two back pillows.  

If you purchase the cushions in sets with both backs and seats, consider purchasing another set, and using the spare seat cushion on an ottoman.

outdoor sectional diagram showing cushions

The plans for this matching ottoman (can also be used as a coffee table) are here.

Updated Plans

This plan has been updated to include all 2x materials and a simplified design.  If you need the old plans you can find them here:

The new, updated plans are below.  

ana white plans outdoor sectional
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Modern Outdoor Sectional

 

 
 
 
 
Dimensions
dimensions diagram for outdoor sectional piece with corner
Dimensions displayed in the diagram - fits 25" x 25" cushions

Preparation

Shopping List

We recommend exterior suitable wood 

 

SHOPPING LIST FOR ONE SECTIONAL PIECE

  • 3 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 50" long
  • ~65 - 2-1/2" long exterior self tapping wood screws

SHOPPING LIST FOR ONE CORNER LEG PIECE

  • 1 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 4 feet long
  • ~15 - 2-1/2" long exterior self tapping wood screws
Common Materials
Cut List

CUT LIST FOR SECTIONAL PIECE

  • 2 - 2x4 @ 24" - seat frame
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 22" - seat frame
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 13-1/2" - front legs
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 27-1/2" - back legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 25" - top
  • 7 - 2x4 @ 22" - seat slats
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 25" - seat trim

CUT LIST FOR CORNER LEG

  • 2 - 2x4 @ 27-1/2" - legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 28-1/2" - top
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 23-1/2" - seat and seat apron
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Make sure you are working on a clean level surface. Predrill and countersink you screws. Take a square after each step. Be safe and have fun. And use glue.

Instructions

Step 1

Use 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws to assemble the seat frame, two per joint.  Exterior wood glue is recommended.

Step 2

Attach legs to the frame from the inside, two screws per joint and glue.

Step 3

Attach top to sectional piece with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 4

Lay outside and center seat slats down and screw down, two screws per joint, with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 5

Evenly space remaining seat slats and screw down.

Step 6

Attach 2x2 trim to the seat slats and legs (where possible) to finish off end of seat.

Step 7

The corner can be used on either side (pay attention to the seat apron board being placed on the inside or outside).  

Build the corner, then attach to the sectional legs with 2-1/2" screws.

Comments

HotMexHandyMan

Fri, 04/12/2013 - 12:25

A post above posed a question regarding the 3/4" front overhang. I had the same question: How can the 1" legs be flush with a 3/4"overhang?
We are looking to start building this, but I would like to get all my ducks in a row first. Thanks! BTW, great wkend project.

Lady Goats

Fri, 04/12/2013 - 12:38

The front leg is a "1x" (spoken as a "one by" - I think it's a 1x4, but that doesn't matter right now). 1x's aren't actually 1 inch by [fill in the blank], but are 3/4 inches by [fill in the blank].

Example:

A 1x2 actually measures 3/4" x 1 1/2" (approximately, some may vary).
A 1x3 actually measures 3/4" x 2 1/2" (approx)

2x's (or "two by's" are 1 1/2" think, not 2" thick.

So, the 3/4" overhang will allow the 1x front leg to sit flush :-)

I really hope this helped instead of confusing you more!

rgp.asl

Sun, 04/21/2013 - 15:07

For the shopping list (Shopping List: 5 – 1×4 Boards, 8′ Long), would this be for one seat, correct?

I plan on starting this project this week and would like to how much materials i would need or if i should reconsider re-thinking the seating amount.

thank you!

Mattr777

Wed, 05/29/2013 - 08:43

Thanks for the great plans. I plan on starting this project soon for my screened in porch. I was wondering if anyone as used or considered using composite decking as the material? I figured it would last just about forever and would eliminate having to paint it. Any thoughts on this?

Mattr777

Wed, 05/29/2013 - 09:32

Thanks for the great plans. I plan on starting this project soon for my screened in porch. I was wondering if anyone as used or considered using composite decking as the material? I figured it would last just about forever and would eliminate having to paint it. Any thoughts on this? What other types of wood are people using?

Phil O'Connell…

Wed, 07/10/2013 - 18:27

A mum's day present this year, with our four (almost five) year old helping out with measuring, cutting, drilling, and screwing. Took a bit longer, but he had a great time doing it, and mum really appreciated it.
Still need to stain or paint it, but otherwise great!

Again, thanks for great, easy to follow plans!

jessb6698

Tue, 04/22/2014 - 11:39

My husband and I are pretty new here, and we are attempting to build this sectional. We went to lowes and home depot and ended up buying 5 common boards 1x4x8 for around $6 each. we have a kreg jig but neither store sold 2 inch screwes so we got 1 1/2. After cutting all the pieces for the first chair and assembling, i went to barely move it out of the way in the garage so that we could start looking at the next one and the back boards just cracked and split. I was so discouraged and hate wasting money. My first question is are these not the right 1/4 boards to use because all the others cost so much more. Second, my husband worried that even if we had used 2 inch kreg screws that they would have been too long and poked through the boards. what can we do differently so that we don't have this problem before we waste anymore time and money :(

jkihano

Tue, 04/29/2014 - 12:57

Has any of the other kreg joints cracked? Did you use glue? Hard to say if none of the others cracked, it could be the wood. $6 is alot for one board. We paid $1.29 for one 1x4x8 at HD and they are basic pine boards. Be sure to pick through the pile carefully and get the best boards possible. It took me about 30 minutes to find 20 good boards that didn't have frayed or cracked edges and not warped. It was so bad I waited 20 minutes for them to bring down a new stack of wood! We didn't use a kreg but countersank all our screws. We used the 2 inch screws for the frames and 1 1/2 for the 14" seat boards. We also added a few more screws to hold the front two legs to the chair base and in the back to connect the back frame to the base frame. Once you stain and add seat covers no one can see all the screws. My coworker also told me to add triangle pieces in the backside to shore up any spots you think may need more reinforcement. I hope that helps.

jkihano

Tue, 04/29/2014 - 12:58

Has any of the other kreg joints cracked? Did you use glue? Hard to say if none of the others cracked, it could be the wood. $6 is alot for one board. We paid $1.29 for one 1x4x8 at HD and they are basic pine boards. Be sure to pick through the pile carefully and get the best boards possible. It took me about 30 minutes to find 20 good boards that didn't have frayed or cracked edges and not warped. It was so bad I waited 20 minutes for them to bring down a new stack of wood! We didn't use a kreg but countersank all our screws. We used the 2 inch screws for the frames and 1 1/2 for the 14" seat boards. We also added a few more screws to hold the front two legs to the chair base and in the back to connect the back frame to the base frame. Once you stain and add seat covers no one can see all the screws. My coworker also told me to add triangle pieces in the backside to shore up any spots you think may need more reinforcement. I hope that helps.

jkihano

Tue, 04/29/2014 - 12:40

I was turned on to Ana-White by my coworker. I loved the easy idea of this sectional, printed off the plans and had all intention of building until I had my hubby run by HD to pick up the supplies. As I figured, he took it upon himself with the neighbor, to start building the chairs. I did help build 2 and they are pretty easy once you get the hang of it. Note, the corner and ottoman pieces are on a different set of plans, which I printed because my neighbor mentioned it wasn't on the chair plans. Herein lies the funny story about reading the instructions. Last night the menfolk started building the corner piece. They had the first stage U Shape for the back frame built when both told me the plans were wrong because the top 27 and change board made the frame much larger for the 24 and change board to fit in the middle. (I can't remember the exact lengths of boards). Thinking they had something wrong I quickly glanced at the plans and remembered in my head what the end result looked like and immediately knew what they did wrong. I flipped to the front page of the plans and pointed out the error. The top board overhangs a bit to accommodate the other back frame, making the corner.....a CORNER piece!! (Note, my husband insisted I was wrong until I showed him the end result picture, wherein he blamed his assistant - the neighbor for not reading the plans right!!) I was then asked to email/blog someone so they can update the plans to say....overhang the 27 board by this much.....I think they were trying to save face for not using some common sense and reading/looking at the instructions. Or....they were just mad for being shown up by a girl!! I did hear two thank you's as I walked off and shook my head.

haydenhancock

Wed, 01/21/2015 - 14:11

I am using the Kreg Jig on some scrap wood and you can't use 2" screws with it because the depth of the board isn't big enough. It will always go right through the other side.

jordasha

Mon, 06/15/2015 - 08:17

Looking forward to trying this. My only question is how do I make the corner piece? I can follow directions but maybe you can show a diagram for that one. Or send me one. LOL I am a DIY virgin and I need all the help I can get.

Mrs.F

Thu, 05/07/2020 - 15:47

Do you use anything to protect the feet of your furniture? We just built this project and we were wondering.

ashleyread

Sun, 05/31/2020 - 05:00

I was wondering where do we put the drill holes? That’s the only thing I really can’t figure out thanks!

Jeremy68

Mon, 06/08/2020 - 07:49

My Boys and I just built this project from start to finish in under 10 hours. our sectional is 9' long by 5' wide. We have limited consumer grade tools and couldn't be happier with the results. None of us are trained carpenters and I'll admit was a little worried about the pieces lining up but as long as you ensure the frame is true the pieces match up quite well.
The best part is the look of accomplishment on my boys faces. Thank you for this.

Amnershae1

Thu, 08/12/2021 - 15:10

I got my husband to build these and I love them so much! We bought a foam mattress second hand and we are going to cut it to fit the sectional pieces and cover it with fabric. I’m so excited! I wish I could share a photo!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!