American Girl Dollhouse - Fits 18" Dolls

American Girl Dollhouse
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free American Girl Dollhouse / 18 Inch Dollhouse Plans.  This three story dollhouse features five large rooms.  It's easy to build with our step by step diagrams, shopping and cut list, and lots of reader submitted photos.

We also have lots of American Girl furniture and accessory plans.

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american girl dollhouse plans

Smaller Version of this Dollhouse

Want to build an American Girl Dollhouse, but in a smaller version?  We have created a new plan that is very similar, but only two stories.  I found my daughter couldn't reach that third story, so the shorter version worked better for us.

american girl dollhouse plans

 

Does your child love American Girl or 18" dolls?

American Girl dollhouses are outrageously expensive.  Have you considered a DIY dollhouse?

 

American Girl Dollhouse Features

  • Easy to build with about $150 in materials
  • All plywood construction - so will last much longer than an MDF or particle board dollhouse
  • Fun to customize and decorate
  • Can add casters so easy to move
  • Plans are easy to modify - so you can make it a two story dollhouse or change up the size
  • Lots of reader submitted photos and success stories

 

 

 

How to Build the Dollhouse

Here's how we built our DIY dollhouse -

 

Rip Plywood for Sides and Shelves

We cut the plywood into strips 23-3/4" wide by 8 feet long.  You'll get four strips from the two sheets of plywood.  Have your home improvement store do this for you if you don't have a table saw or a truck, just make sure the strips are exactly the same width.

Then cut the tops into the house shape for the two sides.  

 

Cut Doors and Windows Out

Then to cut the doors and windows out,

I drew the windows and doors out on each of the panels, and then drilled holes on each side, inside the lines,

Then it's just a matter of connecting the dots,

With a jigsaw.

Cutting out the windows and doors was probably the most time consuming part of this whole project.

 

Assemble the Dollhouse

I used a Kreg Jig to assemble the pieces.  There's not alot of joints, but because the pieces are so huge, it was a little cumbersome - but nothing I couldn't manage on my own.  You don't have to use a Kreg Jig - you can also use 2" self tapping wood screws.

 

Window and Door Trim

The window and door trim makes a huge difference on the dollhouse.  Here's how I built it -

I nailed together 1x2 "boxes" first with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.  

Then I just placed the trim in the openings and nailed to the plywood edges.

 

Our happy client made a few requests that aren't in this plan - we did not add the bottom trim and used caster wheels instead.  And instead of the two rooms upstairs, we made one full room upstairs (but had to add a 1x2 at the top to support the 1/4" plywood on the back.

 

How We Finished the Dollhouse

I also added veneer edge banding to all exposed plywood edges to finish them off.

For the floors inside the dollhouse, we wanted to keep the wood, so we used Rustoleum Wood Stain in Dark Walnut.

It's a one step - just apply and wipe off.  Easy enough for my seven year old to help out!

We also applied RustOleum polyurethane over the stain to protect the floors (just like a real wood floor!!!).

Then we taped over the floors with painter's tape (until we ran out and had to use duct tape) and newspaper,

A quick sanding, and she's ready for primer!

Jacob sprayed the dollhouse with primer,

And then I painted carefully the blue exterior paint on the outsides.

We LOVED how it turned out!!!!

But we wanted the roof to stand out a little more,

So I picked up some RustOleum textured spray paint and sprayed the roof.  It loos like roofing!!!

 

 

 

 

Related: American Girl Dollhouse for Small Spaces

This dollhouse plan is VERY big.  If you need a smaller dollhouse, we have one other plan that would fit in almost any space.

The rooms are not full depth, but I found my daughter preferred to play on the floor with her dolls, and just used the dollhouse to store and display her American Girls and their accessories.

You can find the free plans for the smaller American Girl Dollhouse here.

 

American Girl Dollhouse Plans

The plans for this dollhouse follow.  You can easily customize to different size and of course, paint or stain any way you imagine.

 

 

 

Pin For Later! 

 

American Girl Dollhouse - Fits 18" Dolls

Dimensions
american girl dollhouse plans
Dimensions shown above - warning, it's huge!

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 2 - sheets 3/4" plywood or MDF
  • 1 - sheet 1/4" plywood or MDF (for back)
  • 6 - 1x4 @ 12 feet long (add another one for the base if desired)
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1-1/4" pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4" finish nails or staples
Cut List

WALLS AND FLOORS

  • 3 - 3/4" plywood or MDF @ 23-3/4" x 73" (sides and center divider)
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood or MDF @ 23-3/4" x 48" (bottom)
  • 4 - 3/4" plywood or MDF @ 23-3/4" x 22-7/8" (upper floors)

 

ROOF

  • 5 - 1x4 @ 49-1/2" (OR 1- 3/4" plywood @ 49-1/2" x 17-1/2" (measure and cut to fit))
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 49-1/2"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 14-3/4"

 

BACK

  • 1 - 1/4" plywood @ 48" x 61-1/2"

WINDOWS - CUT TO FIT

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

First, cut out all the pieces. If you don't have a truck or tablesaw, it might be easier to have your home improvement store rip your plywood into 22-3/4" widths, 8 feet long. Then cut the longest pieces first. The top roof angle is 45 degrees. You can easily find this by finding the center of your side and middle panels (at the top). This distance should be 11-7/8" from the sides. Then measure down 11-7/8", and draw a diagonal between the two points. Then mark out all windows and doors and cut out with a jigsaw.

Step 2

Once the pieces are cut, attach the floor to the walls. I used a Kreg Jig set at 3/4" and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Next, add the floors. I used 3/4" pocket holes on the underside and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Because we opted for one large room on the top floor, I opted to use plywood for my roof (no center support without the divided upper room). Keep top edge flush as you attach room with glue and finish nails or staples.

Step 5

For the roof front, we just used 1x boards.  If first attached together with pocket holes, and then attached the entire roof panel on top.

Step 6

For the back, I used 1/4" plywood and nailed it to all of the walls and floors with glue.

Step 7

We opted for caster wheels instead, but you could also finish out the base with 1x boards. Shown in the diagram is 1x4s.

Step 8

I measured each window and built the window trim to fit snugly, gluing in place when I was done.

Step 9

I haven't added shutters yet, but this is what 1x2 shutters would look like.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

jimmypaul

Sat, 04/05/2014 - 11:02

PDF . is anyone having problems downloading plans on PDF , I checked several projects an it appears that the PDF is not working ,, or is it just onmy end ????

Thank You

Mom24girls

Thu, 02/05/2015 - 17:31

Is the price $100-$150 if you have wood on hand? I just left Lowes and one piece of nice plywood would be $50! Any help would be amazing!!!

Ana White Admin

Fri, 02/06/2015 - 11:25

Hi, the price can vary from town to town. Having scraps on hand can help cut down on cost. It would probably be closer to $200, if that is the price where you live. I would call around and try the price match and beat by 10% if possible. Hope this helps!

pwrcarpenter

Thu, 10/22/2015 - 03:42

If you make the floors run all the way across and cut the center divider into 3 pieces this will

make the floors much stronger with less sag and less chance of screws pulling out.

since the picture shows a little girl sitting on the floor I would highly suggest this. :)

 

dustintphelps

Tue, 11/24/2015 - 14:26

I am looking at the cut list and wondering how this was made with only 2 sheets of 3/4 plywood. Seems as though you would need 3. Am I missing something here?

Piesq

Tue, 12/01/2015 - 12:11

Unless I am missing something, there is no way this can be built with only two 4' x 8' sheets of plywood. The two outside pieces take up basically one full sheet. the middle piece takes up half of a second sheet, leaving you with about a 2' x 8' piece. This remaining 2' x 8' piece gets split in half, leaving two 2' x 4' pieces, used for the bottom floor and middle floor. You now are left with nothing but random scraps from the two plywood sheets and no floor for the third floor.

smitjd

Sat, 12/05/2015 - 16:33

Your correct, I just completed this build, and the material list shows everything for the house in the photos with the little girl sitting inside.  If you notice the diagrams are different.  Once you make your cuts for the outside walls, you will have 2 pieces that would be used for the inside walls on the first and second floors, as you can see the third floor in the pictures does not have a middle wall, unlike the diagram.

amyg74

Mon, 12/07/2015 - 05:35

Are the window and door frames made out of the 1x2s?  I have completed the steps for cutting the outside, walls, windows and doors, and now I am on framing them.  I want to be sure I am using the rigt size pieces to frame.  Please confirm that the 1x2s are for the window frames.  thank you.

JLynn

Fri, 12/25/2015 - 13:54

I LOVE this house! My plan is to go to Lowes/Homd Depot and play helpless asking them to do my cuts for me. I don't own a saw out a fear my spouse would get "brave" and try some project and chop off his fingers LOL, but we can follow plans. SOOOOOO I think we'll be ok with this?

 

My question is if you make the floors go all the way across and cut the middle into small sections, does it make the floor stronger? My plan is to add 2 inches in width to each room?

nbarnhouse

Wed, 01/29/2020 - 07:34

Had the hardest time cutting out the squares for the windows.  They were not straight, but once I trimmed them, they weren't as noticeable.  Someone mentioned in the comments above to not cut the horizontal shelves, so that is what we did.  Left those boards long and then cut the vertical wall boards and used them to help support the "floors".  I hit a lot of snags, but was able to complete it and my daughter loves it.  I'd say I spent $250.  I did save a lot of trouble by checking the purchase list against the cut list and double checking all measurements. It turns out only some plywood is exactly 48" wide, most is not.

mr500

Mon, 11/16/2020 - 08:37

If you go over to CutList Otimizer (google it) and put in the cut list it will show you how to cut the pieces . You can get it all out of 2 sheets. CO is free and its web based so nothing to DL
And NO this is not spam or click bate lol

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!