Adirondack Stool or End Table

adirondack stools stained a chocolate brown
Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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This simple Adirondack side table can also be used as a stool.  It's perfect for any outdoor space.  Our free plans include step by step diagrams and shopping lists and cut list.

We also have Adirondack Chair plans and lots more outdoor furniture plans. Make sure you read our outdoor furniture finishing secrets here.

Photo submitted by HurricaneKris

This little outdoor stool doubles as an end table or side table. 

 
 
 
We love it indoors as a plant stand too!
 
 
 

adirondack end table shown as a stool with children

 
 
 

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Adirondack Stool or End Table

 

Dimensions
dimension diagram for outdoor side table
Dimensions are shown above. Standard chair height can be used as seating as well.

Preparation

Shopping List

2 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long

1- 2x2 @ 8 feet long

1 - 1x2 @ 4 feet long

Common Materials
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
paint
paint brush
Cut List

4 - 2x2 @ 17 1/4" (Legs)

4 - 1x3 @ 9 1/2" (Aprons)

2 - 1x2 @ 9 1/2" (Side Supports)

1 - 1x2 @ 10 1/4" (Stretcher)

5 - 1x3 @ 14 1/2" (Top)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Build two legs sets as shown above drilling Kreg Jig pocket holes for 3/4" stock, and using 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 2

With the remaining 2 aprons, drill Kreg Jig pocket holes on ends and attach to leg sets as shown above. Place pocket holes to insides.

Step 3

Measure up 3 1/2" on all legs and mark. Attach side supports with glue and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws centered on legs.

Step 4

Follow with stretcher, attached with 3/4" Kreg Jig pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Erin in Fairbanks (not verified)

Thu, 08/04/2011 - 12:32

I didn't win the Kreg jig...can I do this project without it?

In reply to by Erin in Fairbanks (not verified)

Ana White

Fri, 08/05/2011 - 09:44

Hi Erin, darn, I wish I could give everyone a Kreg Jig!

What I would do is swap the aprons and bottom supports for 2x thick boards, that way when you go to screw (use 2 1/2" screws and countersink from outsides) you'll have more "meat" to screw into. Certainly, you can!

Erin in Fairbanks (not verified)

Fri, 08/05/2011 - 09:59

Thanks Ana,

I'll either try it that way, or maybe I need to buy myself a Kreg Jig for my anniversary. :)

Erin

Daisies and Crazies

Fri, 08/05/2011 - 10:17

This is such a cute table. I was just telling my husband this week that Ana White is the all-around perfect woman. Not perfect as in "doesn't make mistakes" but more because you are kind, gorgeous, multi-talented, generous, hardworking, etc.

I really admire and appreciate you. xo

bhoppy

Fri, 08/05/2011 - 11:50

For an outdoor table such is this one, is it necessary to fill in all the pocket holes on the aprons with wood filler? I just wondered because you say to place the pocket holes to the inside... but if you have to fill them all in with wood filler and sand them even with the board it seems like it would be easier if the holes were on the outside. I'm probably overthinking it but when I made the outdoor harriet table I spent twice as much time sanding the 50+ pocket holes that I filled in with wood filler than I did putting it together.... Was that overkill? LOL Thanks

Pam the Goatherd

Fri, 08/05/2011 - 12:48

This is perfect! My son needs a little table to go next to his computer desk to hold "stuff". I think I'll make this a little taller and put a shelf at the bottom instead of the stretcher and make the top out of a solid piece of plywood. Should be just what he needs.

Suzanne64

Sun, 09/18/2011 - 16:06

Hi Ana, I'm a little confused about the Kreg Jig. Is it necessary to purchase the whole system and the mini is just a part of that or can you just purchase the mini and use that by itself?

I am very new to woodworking and absolutely love it! Working on my first Adirondack chair as we speak.

jenni (not verified)

Sat, 01/12/2013 - 11:38

Is there plans for the Adirondack chair to go with this table? I tried to search for it but had no luck finding anything. Please help. Thanks

suthernfancy

Tue, 04/09/2013 - 20:44

Hi Ana, I really like the Adirondack stool. I was wondering if you will have the matching chair plans in your book? I like this style of Adirondack better because it looks lighter than your original style. I would love to see a set of plans for the new style of chair. Wonderful web site and keep up the great work.

Debbie742

Sat, 07/06/2013 - 06:39

Is it possible to print out the plans for just the table and not the entire article? When I hit the PDF, it wants to do all 22 pages

JoanneS

Sat, 07/06/2013 - 07:25

Hi Debbie 742,
To print out a selected range of pages on a .pdf file:
click 'print' icon (or select file>print)
a "print" dialog pox appears. About 1/3 of the way down under "print range" at the left side of the box, you can key in the page numbers you want to print. (When I tested this it was pages 14-22.)
The 'Preview: composite' section at the right of that box will show you what your printout will look like.
Then you can click "ok" and it will print out just the pages you want.

JoanneS

Sun, 07/21/2013 - 07:30

Hi e3moore1212,

The plan for the chair in the photo is in Ana's book "The Handbuilt Home" on page 174. It's a great book with some wonderful plans and super useful info for building.

She also has several other great adirondack chair plans on this site:

Home depot chair plan:
http://ana-white.com/2013/06/plans/home-depot-dih-workshop-adirondack-c…

Ana's Adirondack chair:
http://ana-white.com/2010/05/furniture-plans-adirondack-chair-ana.html

Modish Adirondack chair:
http://ana-white.com/2010/05/modish-adirondack-chair

jriker

Tue, 05/31/2016 - 08:26

I'd love to make the chairs pictured with this table too but I'm having trouble finding the plan for these exact chairs. Help please?

MattyCakes

Wed, 05/20/2020 - 15:43

I didn't see it either... and I'm working on this project right now! Lol.
My guess is to use the 2 inch finishing nails for the top pieces, since those are on the equipment list but haven't been used in steps 1-4... I'm going to give it a try and we'll see how it goes! Fingers crossed.

thatryan

Tue, 07/16/2019 - 13:24

Hi there! I am new to woodworking and love this little table. Would it be hard to add a shelf at the bottom somehow, over the support? Any tips?

Thank you!

John_W

Sun, 07/19/2020 - 10:11

I'm not sure how the top is attached unless I'm missing the directions somewhere. I'll figure something out but for me I'm not sure how they get attached to the base.
Love this starter project to get me back into woodworking. Thanks, Ana!

Cadet1978

Sun, 03/07/2021 - 21:14

In step 5, what did you use to attach the top boards of the tabletop? Screws? Nails? No description is given.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!