Rustic X Farmhouse Dining Table

formal farmhouse table with X base
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build your own farmhouse table! We love this slightly more formal version with the curved leg pedestals, and the X base.  Our free plans include step by step diagrams, shopping list and cut list.

We recommend this bench plan (adjust length to suit) with this table.

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Farmhouse table with X base
Farmhouse table with X base
Farmhouse table with X base

Reader submitted photo.

Built by Jen Woodhouse from House of Wood 

 

We love the simple styling, but with a few decorative elements - like the bases on the legs, and the X detailing.  

 

Building Tips

  • Tabletop boards (as noted in cut list) are 83 3/4" long

  • Once you get one end cut for "curved" ends, use it as a pattern for the rest - You may want to measure and cut as you go for the leg "curved end" cuts so the ends match up perfectly, measuring the short end of the first board to get the long end measurement for the second board.

  • I highly recommend if you can running the 2x4s through the tablesaw first to get a nice square edge. Take 1/4" off each edge.
  • For the small cross stretchers, most miter saws will bevel 50 degrees. If your saw does not, you can use a 2x2 and cut with jigsaw/circular saw instead, cutting an angle cut at 50 degrees off square.
Dimensions
Farmhouse table with X base
Dimensions are shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

9 - 2 x 6 x 8'

9 - 2 x 4 x 8'

1 - 1 x 4 x 8'

Cut List
  • 8 - 2x6 @ 83 1/2" (tabletop boards) - use this measurement, not the measurement in the diagram
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 44" (breadboard ends) - CUT TO FIT!!!
  • 3 - 2x4 @ 38" (long point to long point, ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends are NOT parallel)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 35 1/2" (long point to long point, ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends are NOT parallel)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 33" (long point to long point, ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends are NOT parallel)
  • 8 - 2x4 @ 20 1/4"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 36"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 64"
  • 1 - 2x4 or 2x2 @ 68 5/8" (long point to short point, both ends cut PARALLEL at 20 degrees off square)
  • 2 - 2x4 or 2x2 @ 34" (longest point measurement, both ends cut INWARD from measurement, one at 50 degrees off square and one at 20 degrees off square)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build your tabletop first with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws. A trick I do is build the tabletop without breadboard ends first. Then I take a circular saw (using a clamped board as a guide) and run it down the end edges to make sure all my boards are exactly the same length. Then I measure and cut the breadboard end to fit and attach it.

For a smoother tabletop, try using tongue and groove for the tabletop boards.

Step 2

This is the pattern for cutting the curved edge boards. Once you get one end cut right, use it as a pattern for cutting the rest.

Step 3

Attach the three longest curved end boards to underside of tabletop.

Step 4

Then stack the next row on top. You can hide screws here if you are using screws, just make sure they are countersunk.

Step 5

Step 6

Add the second base to the leg set.

Step 7

And then the foot.

Step 8

And then attach the leg sets to the underside of the table.

Step 9

Add the stretcher with pocket holes to the underside. You'll probably want to measure and cut this guy to fit depending on your 2x4 widths - just make sure it's the same distance apart as the legs sets are at the tops.

Step 10

If your saw doesn't do 50 degree miters, what you can do is just use 2x2s at an angle cut (you can make angle cuts with a circular saw to just about any degree), cutting two 2x2s the full length and overlappping them, crossing in the middle. Then you can go back and fill in the spaces with 2x2s if you want.

Step 11

For the 2x4s, add the second part to the center X.

Step 12

We also came up with a second variation with aprons just in case you planned to use the table for extra heavy loads -the aprons will add a TON of support but Jen felt that she didn't need them. If you do the aprons, you'll omit the center 2x4.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Pursuit of Handyness

Sun, 06/16/2013 - 21:55

Hello, I'm in the middle of making this table now. I've cut all my boards and squared all of the lumber. Im making this table for outdoor use. As far as the table top goes, Should I not use pocket holes to assemble the top? Don't I need space between the boards to allow water to drain?

rhonit

Tue, 06/25/2013 - 10:21

you can use just about anything for spacers, 16 penny nails, washers and even quarters. it all depends on the width of the space you want.

mollanma

Thu, 07/25/2013 - 13:05

Amazing table and detailed instructions! Any details or similar instructions on making matching benches for the table?

jthommarson

Wed, 03/12/2014 - 06:51

I would love to make this table, but I need it smaller. Could I just take a foot or so off of all the table top dimensions and cross supports?

joelt

Sun, 05/18/2014 - 21:12

Hi,

Thanks for posting this. Working on doing something similar here. Two questions: On step one, roughly how many pocket screws are needed to attach the table top boards to each other (as opposed to the breadboards)?

On step 3, how is the curved edge board attached to the underside of the table top? Via counter-sunk screws coming down from table top?

Thanks!

KatieN

Mon, 07/21/2014 - 20:03

I love all the tables for this site! I finally chose this one but have noticed that every single one ive looked at have .pdf links that are not working. Did they possibly get moved?

Jarrett Darrah

Mon, 01/12/2015 - 11:11

I love the table, but I need to be able to disassemble the top from the legs/frame (I move a lot.) I'm thinking of adding threaded inserts to the 2x4's on the underside of the table top, then running bolts through the top horizontal 2x4 of the leg frame, into the threaded insert. I think this way, the table could be separated into two pieces with just an Alan wrench. Am I right in thinking this, or can you think of a better way to accomplish it?
Thank,

ENS Jarrett Darrah, USN

cstephens3

Sat, 02/14/2015 - 19:43

Is putting the X on the table required? Or would I be able to skip that step? Thank you!!

joemagrino

Fri, 03/06/2015 - 14:04

So I miter cut the wood for the center X. The 2x4s are 1.5" thick, but after the angle cut, the face of that cut is larger. How do you properly attach it to the leg 2x4s without having a bit of a lip. I have run into this on other projects here as well and it never seems to be mentioned.

janetp4

Fri, 07/31/2015 - 18:45

Hi, I love this table, but am looking for a size no larger than 32" wide by 54" long.  Can these plans be made smaller, and if so, how can I request them.  Thank you.

Sincerely,

Janet P.

jkvols7

Tue, 03/13/2018 - 09:22

Love the table and getting ready to build!

Couple of questions...For the legs...Is there a reason you went with 2 2x4s glued/screwed together as opposed to a 4x4 for the vertical supports? Think it should work either way but want to make sure I'm not mising something!

mooyacooya

Tue, 01/21/2020 - 10:49

How difficult would this be to make longer?  Would like it to accommodate 3 chairs on each side as opposed to two.

desteele

Sat, 07/11/2020 - 08:04

I realize I'm a dense male, but I can't find a link for a .pdf for this planset. I can save the page by printing to .pdf, but figured your downloadable would be a bit more slimmed-down. Am I missing something? I did try to read pages I thought would give me an answer. Thanks much, I appreciate the free plans regardless.

Des

bchild87

Fri, 07/17/2020 - 22:46

This table is beautifully done and I cant wait to built one for my family. Unfortunately the measurements are a bit, too long. Do you happen to measurements for this as a 6 Foot table? Thank you!!!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!