1x12 Bookcase with Wainscoting Back

headboard bookcase
Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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Build a bookcase out of 1x12 boards - this is a free woodworking plans with cut list, shopping list and diagrams from Ana-White.com

Photo by  MATIAP 

32 1/2" tall by 44 1/2"wide by 3 1/4" deep

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 3 - 1x12 @ 10 feet long
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 10 feet long
  • 1/4″ Beadboard, cut at 41 1/2″ wide x 32 1/2″ high 
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 12 feet long
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 6 feet long
Common Materials
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
paint
paint brush
Cut List
  • A) 2 – 1×12 @ 32 1/2″ (Sides) 
  • B) 2 – 1×12 @ 40″ (Shelves) 
  • C) 1 – 1×3 @ 40″ (Front top trim) 
  • D) 1/4″ Beadboard, cut at 41 1/2″ wide x 32 1/2″ high 
  • E) 1- 1×2 @ 40″ (Footer Support) 
  • F) 2 – 1×4 @ 11 1/2″ on the shortest points, mitered (Side Footers – Router out the top edge with an ogee bit or purchase 4″ base mouldings) 
  • G) 1 – 1×4 @ 41 1/2″ at the shortest points, mitered (Front Footer – Router out the top edge with an ogee bit or purchase 4″ base mouldings) 
  • H) 1 – 1×2 @ 44 1/2″ (Back Tabletop) 
  • I) 1 – 1×12 @ 44 1/2″ (Front Tabletop)
Cutting Instructions

Cut all your boards as directed in the cut list, except boards F and G.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Use 2″ nails to fasten all joints and glue unless otherwise noted. Make sure to fasten all joints to all neighboring boards to reinforce your joints. It is always better to nail from two different directions than just one.

Instructions

Step 1

Fastens the shelves, B, to the sides, A, as shown above.

Step 2

Add the Front Top Trim piece, C, as shown above. Keep outside edges flush.

Step 3

Add the beadboard, D, to the back as shown above.

Step 4

Add the footer support as shown above. Keep front edge flush.

Step 5

Add the back tabletop piece, H.

Step 6

Then the front tabletop, I, and you are done with the framing.

Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
Fill holes with wood filler and sand and finish as desired.

Comments

Laurie (not verified)

Sun, 01/17/2010 - 21:10

What type of wood do you use to make this bookcase? I saw that you use a lot of pine; but I have heard it is soft. I have a LOT of books, so don't want bendy boards. Thank you for your response.

Ana White (not verified)

Sun, 01/17/2010 - 21:21

Hi Laurie, there is actually a post in the HOW-TO section that discusses the different types of wood. Pottery Barn actually uses lots of pine these days. Pine has more strength than MDF for shelving.

However, pine will dent and scratch easily.

You can use hardwood plywood for the sides, top and shelves, and then frame the edges out in matching hardwood. This is how PB Kids built this bookcase.

Hope this helps!

Ana

Casey (not verified)

Sat, 02/13/2010 - 17:10

Hi Ana! I love your plans! I'm confused as to why we need two tabletop pieces (I and H) instead of just one? I want to make sure I do this right! Thanks!

Ana White (not verified)

Sat, 02/13/2010 - 17:14

Casey, it's because the widest width board in solid wood is a 1x12, but you need a wider width for the top.

jbsquared (not verified)

Thu, 09/23/2010 - 11:26

Hi Ana! I'm just wondering if you have any suggestions for modifying your plans? For example - I want to make these bookcases to go on either side of my fireplace, but I want them wider than in your plan. (I want the total width to be about 52, instead of 44 1/2 inches.) Can I just lengthen the width of each board cut by a certain number of inches? Or will that throw everything off? And what if I want to make the whole thing a little bit deeper - say, 15 inches instead of 13 1/4?

I absolutely LOVE your plans, but sometimes I need to adjust things a little so they will fit in my spaces! Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!!

Shasta (not verified)

Tue, 03/27/2012 - 17:44

I just want to add about the comments about different woods. We have a hardwood lumber shop here and I only get my wood from there. Pine does scratch easily, I don't prefer to use pine just because we will be moving several more times before we end up in a home. I just don't want to wait to build stuff I need. :) I built this bookcase out of cherry plywood. It didn't cost as much as solid cherry and since it is cherry it won't scratch or dent as easily as pine. There are tons of options out there. Good luck!

Shasta

Kleinzeit

Wed, 02/22/2017 - 11:24

Hi Ana,
Love your site. About to attempt my first build - the Tommy bookcase.
I'm a bit confused about the call for 1 - 1x2 @ 12 feet, as the only 1x2 pieces I see in the cut list are 1 x 40" and 1 x 44 1/2", and it seems like an 8 foot length would be sufficient for that. Am I missing something? 
Thanks, Graeme

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!