Baby Changing Table with Drawers and Topper

diy baby changing table
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Here's a great baby changing table plan!  Featuring two small drawers, two big shelves, and a large top perfect for changing, get all of baby's things ready and organized.  Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com

diy baby changing table

Why We Built this Changing Table

Baby Sew Woodsy has arrived and is all cuteness!

I've had changing tables on my mind with our own little one.

John and Katie AKA Baby Sew Woodsy's parents, were kind enough to work with me again on Changing Table Plans for little Ryder's nursery!

 

 

More Photos and Build Post from Sew Woodsy

The plans follow, and for more photos, finishing details, and Sew Woodsy's building post for tips and tricks - please go here now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dimensions
changing table plans
Dimensions shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1/2 Sheet of 3/4” plywood or MDF
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 3 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 10 feet long
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 12 feet long
  • 1/4” plywood piece at least 16” x 35”
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long (for topper)
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2 - sets of 14" drawer slides
  • 1-1/4" and 3/4" brad nails
  • wood glue
Cut List
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 32” - legs
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 14-1/2” - side trim
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 38” - front and back trim
  • 2 - 3/4” plywood @ 14-1/2” x 38” - shelves
  • 2 - 1x6 @ 14-1/2” - sides
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 38” - back
  • 1 - 3/4” plywood @ 17-1/2” x 41”
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 38” - drawer trim 
  • 6 - 1x2 @ 4-3/4” - drawer trim

DRAWERS

  • 4 - 1x4 @ 15-1/2” (sides)
  • 4 - 1x4 @ 15-3/8” (front/back)
  • 2 - 1/4” plywood @ 15-1/2” x 16-7/8” (bottom)
  • 2 - 3/4” plywood or 1x6 @ 4-1/2” x 17-5/8” (front)

TOPPER

  • 2 - 1x3 @ 41”
  • 3 - 1x3 @ 16"
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Drill (2) 3/4” pocket holes on each end of the 1x2 @ 14-1/2” long. Attach to the 2x2 legs with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, flush to inside, keeping pocket holes hidden on insides. NOTE: Upper shelf can be placed at any height. In this plan, the upper shelf is placed to allow 12” height on lower shelf.

Step 2

Drill 2 - 3/4” pocket holes on each end of the 1x2 @ 38” long and attach with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws to the 2x2 legs, at the same height as the side 1x2s. Keep 1x2s flush to inside of the legs.

Step 3

Drill 3/4” pocket holes around all four edges of the two shelves (14-1/2” x 38”), spacing pocket holes every 6-8 inches. Attach inset to the 1x2 frames with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

On the 1x6 boards, drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward for attaching the top in later steps.  Then drill 3/4" pocket holes on the ends for attaching to the legs.

Attach the 1x6 side and back aprons with 3/4” pocket holes and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Also drill 3/ 4” pocket holes on the insides of the aprons facing upward to attach the top in later steps. *Note: the backboard should be flush to the outside of the legs.

Step 5

Top - attach the top through the predrilled holes in the 1x6 boards with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Attach the shorter 1x2 boards to inside of drawer area. Then attach bottom 1x2 with glue and finish nails - also use pocket holes to attach to legs.

Repeat this step for the second frame, positioned so the 14" drawer slides can be attached at the back to the shorter 1x2s.

Step 7

Trim out around top with molding or 1x1s to finish plywood edges. For a more finished look, miter corners.

Step 8

Build drawers to fit openings and drawer slides. Install drawers in table with drawer slides, insetting 3/ 4” to allow for the drawer face.

The drawer can be built with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.  The bottom of the drawer can be attached with 3/4" brad nails and glue.

Here is a good video on installing drawers:
 

Step 9

Attach drawer face to drawers with 1-1/4” finish nails and glue, then attach from inside with 1-1/4” screws. NOTE: It may be easier to attach handles or knobs before attaching the drawer faces.

Step 10

Build topper with either finish nails and glue or pocket holes. Bottom is not necessary. Can be attached with a bracket on back side to keep in place. *Note: We adjusted the 32” measurement to 30” to fit our changing pad and wipe container better.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

abaron03

Sat, 01/31/2015 - 20:32

Can you please help me with step 9? It says to install drawers with drawer slides, but I don't see anything in the shopping list about drawer slides, and I don't see anything about how to install them in the instructions. If you simply insert the drawers into the structure as shown above, it seems like they would be balancing on a small cross section of a 1x2 board. I assume that can't be right. Is there a missing step?

kpower5

Sat, 12/05/2015 - 03:47

Hi All,

I was having the same issue so I added an extra 2x1 in step 6 behind the small bit in the center. I attached it with pocket hole screws and glue and attached the drawer slides on both sides. I've adde a picture of it to my bragpost. Hope it helps.

dsmolkin

Sat, 03/12/2016 - 09:34

Can't for the life of me get flush 90 joints with a kreg jig and a 90deg clamp. Is this a common problem or is it unusual? New to using the system, so it's probably a user issue.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!