Build the Simple Playhouse - Front Wall with Door

front wall of playhouse easy to build plans
Difficulty
Intermediate
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The goal: Make building a playhouse easy! We simplify the process by in this easy to build playhouse plans.  You'll love the step by step diagrams and shopping list.  This playhouse has been built thousands of times and is beloved by families all over the world!

 

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Build the Simple Playhouse - Front Wall with Door

Dimensions
Playhouse finished dimensions are 4' x 8' - deck is 8'x8'
Playhouse finished dimensions are 4' x 8' - deck is 8'x8' - Dimensions for front wall shown in diagram above

Preparation

Shopping List

Shopping List for Front Wall Only

  • 1 – Sheet of 1/4″ Exterior Plywood
  • 6 – 2×2 Furring Strips, 8′ Long
  • 3 – 1×2 Furring Strips, 8′ Long
  • 3 – 1×3 Furring Strips, 8′ Long
  • Hinges for the Doors
Common Materials
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

CUT LIST FOR THE WALL FRAMING

  • 1 – 2×2 @ 90″ (Top Plate)
  • 6 – 2×2 @ 45″ (Studs)
  • 2 – 2×2 @ 29″ (Window Top and Bottom)
  • 1 – 2×2 @ 57 1/4″ (Bottom Plate)
  • 1 – 2×2 @ 14 3/4″ (Bottom Plate)
  • 1 – 2×2 @ 18″ (Door Header)
  • 1 – 2×2 @ 7 1/2″ (Window Header Stud)
  • 90″ x 48″ 1/4″ Plywood with Windows and Doors cut out to fit the stud wall.

 

CUT LIST FOR THE TRIM

  • 1 – 1×3 @ 90″ (Top Trim)
  • 1 – 1×3 @ 14 3/4″ (Bottom Trim)
  • 1- 1×3 @ 57 1/4″ (Bottom Trim)
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 43″ (Side Trim)
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 36 1/2″ (Door Trim)
  • 1 – 1×2 @ 21″ (Top of Door Trim)
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 16 1/2″ (Window Side Trim)
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 32″ (Window Top and Bottom Trim)

 

CUT LIST FOR DOOR

  • Scrap Door Piece of plywood
  • 2 – 1×3 @ 33″ (Door Sides)
  • 1 – 1×3 @ 13″ (Middle Trim)
  • 1 – 1×3 @ 18″ (Door Bottom)
  • 1 – 1×4 @ 18″ (If you don’t have a 1×4 scrap, you can use a 1×3 but the length of the door sides will need to be increased to 34″)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

STUD FRAMING
Frame your wall as shown above using 2″ screws and glue. Check for square. Trace out your windows and doors onto the plywood and cut out the openings. If you are careful about cutting out your door, you can use the door scrap to build your door with. Attach the plywood to the stud wall using 1 1/4″ nails and glue.

Step 2

TRIM
It is always a good idea to measure and cut your trim as you go to get the best fit. Use 1 1/4″ nails and glue to attach the trim to the face of the wall, keeping outside edges flush.

Step 3

Cut your top door header piece in an arch as shown above. Then use a Kreg Jig™ to join the door pieces to create a door frame.

I used 1x2s and a 1×3 header because that is what I had for scraps. You can see the pocket holes in the above photo of the door. Then use 1″ nails and glue to attach the back plywood to the door frame. If your nailer doesn’t shoot 1″ nails, you can by brad nails and use a hammer to add the nails. Do not forget the glue.

Step 4

Here is the door completed, but not yet on it’s hinges.

Comments

ainhoa vega (not verified)

Thu, 05/27/2010 - 08:57

Hey Anna,
just thought you might want to know, the sponsor link doesn't seem to work - I get linked to the image itself.
Thanks for all the plans, I especially like the outdoor collection!

Jenny (not verified)

Thu, 05/27/2010 - 09:13

Ana,

I just found your blog and the these playhouse plans - they are fantastic!!! I feel so lucky to have found your site in my search for a present for my daughter's third birthday. What I only just realized was that these plans aren't part of your archive, but you're working on this project right now! What excellent timing.

Good luck with the rest of the project and thank you so much for the plans.

Jenny

Angie (not verified)

Thu, 05/27/2010 - 10:31

I'm super stoked! I've been building this piece by piece and I have all the sides finished except this one. I'm excited to get started on it today!

Momma Rhyne (not verified)

Thu, 05/27/2010 - 11:13

Super awesome. If you make the platform the right height, you can add a slide... that's what we are going to do, maybe two slides so the boys can race, hehe! Love this site!

Tina (not verified)

Fri, 07/30/2010 - 07:02

Ana I am getting ready to make the door. There is a difference in the way you built the door and the plans. My question is did you make changes in the length of the sides or is that the way you planned it to be? I want to use the Kreg Jig like you did. In the plans it shows the header on top of the sides and your door shows the header between the sides.

kaycee (not verified)

Sun, 01/23/2011 - 06:32

I can't seem to find the plans for the playhouse. I have found the plans for the front wall/ door and the swing set but I can't find the rest of it. Am I missing something?
Thanks for all of your hard work. I love you plans and designs!!

Kaycee White

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 04/10/2012 - 13:26

Can you tell me what the total cost is for just the playhouse?

Lindsey Schuh (not verified)

Mon, 07/30/2012 - 16:08

I absolutely love these plans! It'll make the perfect Xmas present for my little one! I may add a work bench on one side and a sink inside too. I'll make sure to brag post it when I'm done :)

However, I see the finished picture at the top but I can't seem to find the details on the roof anywhere. I've tried multiple keywords but I just haven't been able to find it. Do you have plans or directions for that step?

I love your site so much and it's my new addiction :)

yecats71

Thu, 08/22/2013 - 18:42

How do you attach the house onto the deck? I am looking at making the platform slightly larger and the playhouse a little taller with a potential loft. I wasn't sure if the 4x4 posts went taller if I could build the walls with plywood inside or outside of the posts?
Do I need any additional bracing for the bottom if the platform size is the same height, but the house is about 7 feet tall by 9 feet wide and 8 1/2 feet deep?

I love your plans.

Tony K

Thu, 03/13/2014 - 11:07

Hi Ana,

Thanks for this plan, and I really can't wait to get started on making one.

Should the wood be treated or is in treated ok?

Thanks!

Mrotter

Sat, 04/23/2016 - 17:37

We live in MN I am sure would footings would be needed to hold the house on the deck?

acsimpson

Wed, 08/14/2019 - 11:33

Hi Ana,

Thanks very much for these plans.

I'm not sure if you are replying to comments on this but if someone else who knows sees this could you please tell me what sort of hinges you would recommend using?

dianacvpope

Sun, 10/11/2020 - 06:16

Hi! We are just about finished with all the walls and have the same question as above. I don’t see specifics on how to assemble the walls and attach to the deck.

Love the plans and the creativity of all those who have shared their projects! This is my first build and so far so good 😊

Thanks!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!